Huskyboy meets the 572xp

[TreeLife]

This... You don't go home any sooner in the residential tree business because you have a ported saw. Bob mentioned the fun factor, and that's a big part of it. I'll say it's nice having a saw with extra nuts at times to get through a cut quicker in certain scenarios. But most of these new saws with a muffler mod cut fast enough in a real world work scenario.

Yep. You are 100% correct.

 

[Time's Standing Stihl]

Stock with a muffler mod was about 14.5% slower than the ported one. It still wasn’t a slouch and with 24” bars the difference isn’t mind blowing. The long bar shows the real power difference better. The muffler mod is good for about 5%. The muffler isn’t as restrictive as it looks, it has lots of holes feeding the area under the deflector. The compression is fairly good stock as well. I guess the guys doing machine work and extensive modifications could eke out a few extra % but really the 572 is a pretty good runner stock. The average logger or tree guy is going to be happy with the performance.

What did you gain from just a muffler mod on the 572??

You like the oiler???

 

[huskyboy]

What did you gain from just a muffler mod on the 572??

Muffler mod gains 5% in cut speed with some added torque and better throttle response over stock. It’s not a restrictive muffler compared to some. There are a lot of holes feeding the area under the deflector. I cut off the stock deflector and gut the muffler as much as possible. Then I weld/braze or nutsert a larger deflector in stock location so I can run a spark screen.

You like the oiler???

It works great. I’d say about 32” is the max. I usually run a 24 or 28” bar. The oiler can be turned up to run out before the gas, so that’s your limitation. The ported saw I can turn up the oiler a little more than the muffler modded stock saw since it uses more fuel.

 

[andyshine77]

You're always on top of it Mason!

In a similar can of worms, the gains you can get from a simple gasket delete bumping the compression up 20-25 PSI is also not due to "porting".

Again I agree 100% and have said as much, took some flack for saying it too.[emoji106][emoji111]

 

[5000+]

Again I agree 100% and have said as much, took some flack for saying it too.[emoji106][emoji111]

True, but you are moving all the ports timing a slight amount, that may add alittle torque also.
Some saws have pretty thin gaskets and some are on thick side.

 

[5000+]

I did a brown bag gasket and a mm. on my early 346xp oe and got a good improvement.

 

[dustinwilt68]

Most of the newer saws are right at 0.020 thick

 

[MustangMike]

It all depends on the circumstances. Some saws respond very well w/o porting, others do not.

Someone with a metal lathe can always get the squish and ports where they want them, someone who deletes a base gasket may get lucky enough to have good squish and port timing, but don't count on it. Same with timing advance, it works better on some than on others.

It helps to be familiar with the model you are dealing with, and full porting usually provides additional gains, sometimes substantial.

Heck, I did minor mods to two saws that had already been ported (same model) and got substantial addl gains … it is sometime tough to figure out.

That's why, IMO, experienced porters are well worth their stuff.

 

[andyshine77]

Most of the newer saws are right at 0.020 thick

Correct, they've been listening.

The 346 was one saw with tolerances all over the place, some would scream, some were duds. My personal 346 with a gasket delete and mm runs real close to a basic woods ported saw.

 

[MustangMike]

My 10mm 044 is like that, it is my only "unported" saw, BGD, timing advance, dp muff, winter (screen) filter.

 

[andyshine77]

My stock 7900 has squish set at .017" right out of the box, and 190 pounds of compression. I see no need to port it, it runs faster than I ever will.[emoji1]

 

[DND 9000]

Please could someone post the part number of the V2 muffler. Thanks!

US MS 261, 261 C-M muffler: 1141 140 0633

 

[00wyk]

Another thing to note when it comes to modding is the timing. It's more of a deal than some would think. On a big V8, if you advance the timing more than 2-3* over stock, you are almost always asking for detonation. There are loads of odd shapes inside a combustion chamber of a car engine, and they are fairly efficient from the factory for pump fuel. Whereas in a saw engine, you almost have a perfectly designed combustion chamber for timing advance. Echo aside, and maybe the newer MTronics, timing has been fairly conservative on saws. I have seen 8* over stock make a huge difference and not cause detonation. I am talking 15% better cut times with timing alone.

I once had an 044 that had been scored I got for a great price. It was pumping 125psi cold and ran very weak. I advanced the timing piece by piece until it did this:

That is a stock 044 10mm that will die from lack of compression if you let it get too hot, spanking the spit out of a hard, seasoned piece of red oak, just with timing alone.

But if you get timing wrong...very bad things can happen

Again - variables.

 

[Coltont]

Having 1 ported saw along side 5 stock saws on a tree crew sucks too. Always finding the correct gas can etc. I guess my view on ported saws is this, they are probably the most fun you can have with a chainsaw. But I dont agree with them making you less tired at the end of the day, or put more wood on the ground in a day. Efficiency with a chainsaw, proper maintenance, and knowing how to sharpen a chain is going to do just as much or more and not cost you 300 bucks. Just my point of view after running saws to make a living for 13 years.

 

[RI Chevy]

You getting paid by the hour Colton?
Lol. Just funnin here.
Any saw that cuts wood is a good saw...
We're just spoiled here.

 

[SimonHS]

US MS 261, 261 C-M muffler: 1141 140 0633

Many thanks!

I recently bought a rough MS261CM for cheap, with missing muffler. I'm just about to buy a muffler for it, so I might as well get the good version.

 

[huskyboy]

An update... the chainbrake handle is definitely the weakest part of the 572xp. My boss and my coworker broke the ones on there saws recently. As did I as I mentioned a while back. The rest of the saw is quite durable for a 70cc saw. The brake handle needs to be made of a more flexible, forgiving or thicker plastic. It’s honestly not a big deal if you keep in mind to avoid any hits to the brake handle... but hopefully someone from husky reads this thread and changes the material.

 

[huskyboy]

I probably wouldn’t gripe about it as much if it was a bit easier to replace the brake handle. It’s kind of a pain since you have to disassemble the brake spring and components. It’s easier to do than a dolmar 7900 chainbrake, but it’s still a project. A 372... two screws and she’s out. Easy to do in the field.

 

[Deets066]

Easy to do in the field.

You take extra brake handles to the woods with you?

 

[huskyboy]

You take extra brake handles to the woods with you?

I keep them in my truck on the jobsite. Always good to have spare brake, spare mounts, spare recoil rope and spare clutch cover with you if you are a logger. Usually I’ll just grab my spare saw though.