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Echo cs 590,600,620 porting/mod/build thread

Ronie

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I tested it out this morning and it runs ok but I was hoping for a little more, I'm going to try raising the exhaust and flattening out the rear transfers.
 
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Nutball

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Finished the cylinder up, the numbers are, EX 113, TR 134, IN 81. Those numbers are off a little because I measured them with a ring and the piston is cut at an angle so the ring rides higher up on the piston and not on the outside edge, same goes for the numbers I posted for my 620. Also I did't change the upper transfers. Should have it all together tonight and see how it runs tomorrow.

View attachment 299381 View attachment 299382
Those numbers look right to me

I tested it out this morning and it runs ok but I was hoping for a little more,
Try it with a long bar

I'm going to try raising the exhaust
Good idea.
 

Ronie

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I ordered a 199 jet for the carb last week but it won't be here until Monday so I closed up the jet with some JBweld and will change it out next week.

thumbnail_KIMG2083.jpg
 

Intoxsawcated

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Maybe it's me. Won't let me watch the 12,800 video. Says it's private. No biggie. Looks like it runs great in the wood in the last video.

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Ronie

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Maybe it's me. Won't let me watch the 12,800 video. Says it's private. No biggie. Looks like it runs great in the wood in the last video.

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Thanks! Try the 12800 video now, I had set the wrong one to public,
 

Cerberus

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Pretty embarrassing but cannot port it if I cannot get my cylinder off and the 'far end' / carb-end of the intake-manifold-boot's rubber "goes into" the back of the orange plate here and I just cannot separate it 20210917_200236.jpg 20210917_200245.jpg
The orange plastic seems like it should just "pull off" from the rubber entry of the manifold but feels like I'm going to rip it if I apply more force, and - looking at how it's positioned - find it hard to picture simple pressure-fit being sufficient to seal this (maybe it's just a real tight pressure-fit, hence my issue?)

The loose part looks like this:
s-l640.jpeg
and I cannot get at its 2 screws until I move the orange plastic wall that's in-front of it, but that wall is "connected" to this rubber boot's entry, the entry is "jam-fit' into the plastic wall it feels (although the interface doesn't seem sufficient for a push-fit of this type, not w/o adhesives at least..)
Didn't wanna rip / break anything so put it halfway back together to come ask help, so frustrating, was so confident I'd be letting the motoseal set-up overnight and testing tomorrow :/
 
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Ronie

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Take out the support ring, push down the edge and push the intake boot through the hole.
 

Ronie

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If I'm remembering right.
 

Nutball

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Metal ring comes out, a small sharpish tool can pull it out. The edges of the boot can lift away from the plastic, bend one part into a corner and try to push that corner inside the boot, and the rest will follow. It will take effort to stuff it through without loosening the cylinder first. Sometimes I push it through as I pull the cylinder off, and reassemble in the opposite way.

It's pretty tough rubber, so it can take some abuse as long as you don't get extreme with it.
 

Cerberus

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Take out the support ring, push down the edge and push the intake boot through the hole.
I'm unsure which part is the 'support ring' :( Keep looking at the pic of that rubber, and of my orange plastic wall... What remains on the orange plastic once the rubber boot is out? is it an orange hole? Or a black surrounding? Because the current 'perimeter' there looks like simply the front-edge of the rubber-boot (IE it's push-fit into the orange wall, so removal is simply 'force' -- that's where I'm stuck, I can't tell if 1 more bit of force is going to pop it out, or tear the rubber :/ )
 

Intoxsawcated

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The metal ring inside the boot next to the carburetor is the support ring.

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Intoxsawcated

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Support ring
c6aeffa90eeaaaae5587f18adfb4aa22.jpg


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