592XP info and a surprise

[SpaceBus]

I bought one of my Tsumura bars specifically for milling, the other one just because I couldn't find any other 16" .058 gauge bars for my boat anchor. Before I found the Tsumura I almost got some adapters to run a Stihl bar on my 395. I've never damaged rails from cross cutting, but before I figured out that the 395 handle interferes with the saw carriage on my mill I gapped two Oregon powermatch/powercut bars. I'm hoping that the Archer chain I'm using for milling is not as hard as the bar rails on the Tsumura.

 

[smokey7]

I bought one of my Tsumura bars specifically for milling, the other one just because I couldn't find any other 16" .058 gauge bars for my boat anchor. Before I found the Tsumura I almost got some adapters to run a Stihl bar on my 395. I've never damaged rails from cross cutting, but before I figured out that the 395 handle interferes with the saw carriage on my mill I gapped two Oregon powermatch/powercut bars. I'm hoping that the Archer chain I'm using for milling is not as hard as the bar rails on the Tsumura.

What do you mean you gapped two Oregon bars? Are you saying you were out the groove?

 

[SpaceBus]

What do you mean you gapped two Oregon bars? Are you saying you were out the groove?

I'm saying with the chain fully tensioned you could see daylight between the bar rails and the chain. Not down the whole length, just right where the chain first hits the log when I'm milling.

 

[Wolverine]

I'm saying with the chain fully tensioned you could see daylight between the bar rails and the chain. Not down the whole length, just right where the chain first hits the log when I'm milling.

What do you use for bar lube?

 

[DC1072]

I'm saying with the chain fully tensioned you could see daylight between the bar rails and the chain. Not down the whole length, just right where the chain first hits the log when I'm milling.

I got it asked have you clean the inside of your Bar rails?

 

[SpaceBus]

I use canola oil, and a lot of it. Usually as much oil as fuel. The issue seemed to be the saw was not attached to the mill saw carriage properly due to interference from the handle. With the handle attached the saw had a tendency to "rise" during the cut and make tapered cuts. I had very few issues yesterday, all related to hitting screws. Yesterday I tried a half and half mix of DGP bio bar oil, and it really seems to be canola oil with Lucas oil stabilizer in it. I think straight canola oil works better. When I was cutting with my Husky boat anchor while the 395 was waiting on a new coil I actually had no issues at all with the bar friction, it was just really slow.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Ok I just read the last 6 pages and honestly I think indoor bathrooms are over rated, don't give in to society's "labels " maybe you identify as a labordoddle ,just remember to carry a baggie if you use my front yard!
I'm glad Husqvarna got a decent bar, it seems like they were getting the shaft on bars the last couple of years.
With the price of lumber and the wide spread popularity of "do it yourself"milling I'd think that a few 592s are gonna end up in Alaskan mills , if they perform like a 395 it would definitely be a good choice.
Like others have said a revamp of the 3120 is really a waste of money for Husqvarna, if your buying one for milling or falling it's pretty rare, especially when the 395xp will do just about everything better.
Just like the 881, I think the strato design will make it a better saw but not using the available technology of FI was/is a halfass attempt at a rereleased version.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I use canola oil, and a lot of it. Usually as much oil as fuel. The issue seemed to be the saw was not attached to the mill saw carriage properly due to interference from the handle. With the handle attached the saw had a tendency to "rise" during the cut and make tapered cuts. I had very few issues yesterday, all related to hitting screws. Yesterday I tried a half and half mix of DGP bio bar oil, and it really seems to be canola oil with Lucas oil stabilizer in it. I think straight canola oil works better. When I was cutting with my Husky boat anchor while the 395 was waiting on a new coil I actually had no issues at all with the bar friction, it was just really slow.

You should be using MORE oil then gas , think about what your saying, slower saw =less friction problems, faster more powerful saw = problems.
The flash point and molecular breakdown of natural oils is lower than synthetic oils ,you really want to slobber that bar with oil to maintain surface temperature and wear.

 

[SpaceBus]

You should be using MORE oil then gas , think about what your saying, slower saw =less friction problems, faster more powerful saw = problems.
The flash point and molecular breakdown of natural oils is lower than synthetic oils ,you really want to slobber that bar with oil to maintain surface temperature and wear.

I do slobber the bar with oil. More oil than most people use when cross cutting. When running store bought bar and chain oil through my Husky 460 with the oiler on max I still don't use a whole tank of oil per tank of fuel. With the oiler on max with the 395 or 460 using canola oil I run out of fuel just before I run out of oil. Why would Husqvarna, or anyone else, build a saw that can't hold enough lubricant to run a whole tank of fuel? I also have a water cooling drip that works quite well. With proper oil distribution and water cooling I can easily touch the bar after I make a pass on the mill.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I do slobber the bar with oil. More oil than most people use when cross cutting. When running store bought bar and chain oil through my Husky 460 with the oiler on max I still don't use a whole tank of oil per tank of fuel. With the oiler on max with the 395 or 460 using canola oil I run out of fuel just before I run out of oil. Why would Husqvarna, or anyone else, build a saw that can't hold enough lubricant to run a whole tank of fuel? I also have a water cooling drip that works quite well. With proper oil distribution and water cooling I can easily touch the bar after I make a pass on the mill.

The reasons why a manufacturer would build a saw that doesn't have a larger oil out put can be explained better than myself by persons dealing with environmental factors.
No one sells a chainsaw that is specifically labeled as a "milling saw ", but that doesn't stop us from using it for milling, winches, or other outside the box usage .
The demands of milling as a opposed to cross cutting are very dramatic , but let us not muck up the thread with milling discussion, I think there's a "Milling Thread".

 

[DC1072]

The reasons why a manufacturer would build a saw that doesn't have a larger oil out put can be explained better than myself by persons dealing with environmental factors.
No one sells a chainsaw that is specifically labeled as a "milling saw ", but that doesn't stop us from using it for milling, winches, or other outside the box usage .
The demands of milling as a opposed to cross cutting are very dramatic , but let us not muck up the thread with milling discussion, I think there's a "Milling Thread".

Both your statements in this thread hi Haley applause them well written

 

[Wolverine]

I use canola oil

Yahtzee. Most of that chit is flinging right off the tip I bet.

 

[SpaceBus]

Yahtzee. Most of that chit is flinging right off the tip I bet.

No, I have plenty of oil on the drivers, in the bar groove, etc. Canola oil is a common choice for folk milling with chainsaws. Now that I'm using OEM Husky 16" bar and Tsumura 24" bar on the mill I'm having much better oiling in general. The Oregon Powermatch/Powercut bars don't oil as well, apparently.

I should mention that I'm only running a 24" bar. The stock 395xp oiler should have zero problem supplying enough oil for a 24" bar sawing 16" spruce logs at the biggest. I'm not sawing giant hardwoods with an Alaskan mill.

 

[huskyboy]

No, I have plenty of oil on the drivers, in the bar groove, etc. Canola oil is a common choice for folk milling with chainsaws. Now that I'm using OEM Husky 16" bar and Tsumura 24" bar on the mill I'm having much better oiling in general. The Oregon Powermatch/Powercut bars don't oil as well, apparently.

I should mention that I'm only running a 24" bar. The stock 395xp oiler should have zero problem supplying enough oil for a 24" bar sawing 16" spruce logs at the biggest. I'm not sawing giant hardwoods with an Alaskan mill.

Try some real bar oil made for chainsaws with tackyness... get back to us and let us know if there is a difference. Who knows... you might just be surprised?

 

[DC1072]

No, I have plenty of oil on the drivers, in the bar groove, etc. Canola oil is a common choice for folk milling with chainsaws. Now that I'm using OEM Husky 16" bar and Tsumura 24" bar on the mill I'm having much better oiling in general. The Oregon Powermatch/Powercut bars don't oil as well, apparently.

I should mention that I'm only running a 24" bar. The stock 395xp oiler should have zero problem supplying enough oil for a 24" bar sawing 16" spruce logs at the biggest. I'm not sawing giant hardwoods with an Alaskan mill.

I have a 42 inch Oregon by and I will say my holes small
And I agree oil with a little tackiness can go along way.

 

[SpaceBus]

Try some real bar oil made for chainsaws with tackyness... get back to us and let us know if there is a difference. Who knows... you might just be surprised?

That's what I started with. I also have some DGP vegetable based oil that I am mixing with the canola oil. Working with Canola oil, conventional bar oil, and the DGP oil back to back there is no significant difference in my application. Besides my informal testing I'm not going to be using any mineral based oils if I can avoid it. Much of the lumber I mill is being used for livestock housing and our food garden and the less toxic chemical exposure the better. The areas I'm cutting in will be livestock pasture and I'd like to not contaminate those areas.

 

[huskyboy]

As for oil holes in bars... I found opening those oil holes too much causes them to clog easier. There designed to be the size they are to create some pressure at the inlet so they don’t clog.

 

[ferris]

Try some real bar oil made for chainsaws with tackyness... get back to us and let us know if there is a difference. Who knows... you might just be surprised?

Did u test canola oil?
I use since this winter and don’t found any negatives.
I’ve had no problems with 24” 404 in oak with the 462.

 

[huskyboy]

Did u test canola oil?
I use since this winter and don’t found any negatives.
I’ve had no problems with 24” 404 in oak with the 462.

It’s too thin for summer use. No tackyness so it flings right off the bar tip. Long term, you will see more wear vs conventional bar oil made for chainsaws. Does it work? I’m sure it does. But I won’t be using it in my saws.

 

[huskyboy]

That's what I started with. I also have some DGP vegetable based oil that I am mixing with the canola oil. Working with Canola oil, conventional bar oil, and the DGP oil back to back there is no significant difference in my application. Besides my informal testing I'm not going to be using any mineral based oils if I can avoid it. Much of the lumber I mill is being used for livestock housing and our food garden and the less toxic chemical exposure the better. The areas I'm cutting in will be livestock pasture and I'd like to not contaminate those areas.

I believe stihl makes a bio friendly bar oil made for chainsaws that probably works better than straight canola if your concerned about the environment. It’s expensive though. https://www.stihlusa.com/products/oils--lubricants-and-fuels/oils-and-lubricants/biooil/