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Absolution

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Make sure you get the lube for those arp's to make sure you get the correct torque. But i would guess you already know that.

Looking for to seeing how this turns out for you.

I came in this weekend to pick up some stuff. I won't be able to get around to installing the downpipe and turbo the weekend.

But I did get to drive the truck on its 250hp. It's currently a night and day difference.
 

Absolution

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I figured since I'm wrapping it the welds don't need to be Tig so broke out the mig.

So I did tap put at 1,300 topping out the lower gears today with the 240HP tune. However the newer turbo was wake up wayyyy earlier compared to my old one. Once I finish the downpipe and connect it to the muffler then I'll pressure test the system again.

But yeah, the ford downpipe is way the *f-word off. So I have to cut and modify it.


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Nutball

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What is the stock HP?

I like the project. Reminds me of my ford f 700 chip truck. With a twin turbo 5.9 12valve cummins. Not the best pic. But you get the ideaView attachment 298322
I drive a f700 chip truck, but as much as I wish it had more power, I'd be reluctant to modify it without a stronger drive train. I've seen this truck break a drive shaft, and a bucket truck twist a drive shaft. The chip truck is limited to 3300rpm I think, with an automatic transmission that wastes a ton a fuel as the torque converter has a lot of slip.
 

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What is the stock HP?

I drive a f700 chip truck, but as much as I wish it had more power, I'd be reluctant to modify it without a stronger drive train. I've seen this truck break a drive shaft, and a bucket truck twist a drive shaft. The chip truck is limited to 3300rpm I think, with an automatic transmission that wastes a ton a fuel as the torque converter has a lot of slip.

Stock on this truck is 195hp

Yes, that would be something that definitely crossed my mind. I think my transmission is rated for 600ish ftlbs. But also from my experience of my drag truck if I don't hammer her hard in first or second and I have the momentum I should be okay. My long term goal is a 13speed roadranger, the drive shafts on the internationals are build pretty tough as I think they use the same stock material for all their models.

Tonight I decided to hit the war path after a few beers and I had my father drive. I tuned the truck to 300hp, and god damn she flies for 18k. Lugging it in 5th high from 2000 rpm gave a slow build to 1,300*s but nothing scary. I think I'm going to hooked one of the loaded trailers to the truck and see how she reacts to driving on the highway in the flats here. Also once I get the new stage 1 injectors in the temps should also be better off. Even though they are slightly larger they should burn more complete since they are single shot.

Once I get a Exhaust pressure gauge installed I'll see about turning the boost up more as well just to make sure I'm staying in that 1:1 ratio. - This is where I'm wondering if I should have went with a stage 2 turbo since the truck is under more of a load comparatively to it's light duty counterparts. (Stage two turbo was the same except a larger exducer so drive pressure would be lower.)

I backed it down to 275 with the new turbo after that short run.
I've also decided to buy a water meth system for it since I know she'll probably get warm on a mountain run.
 
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jmester

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Alot of the fords back then ran a Allison at545 auto trans. They did not have a lock up converter. Which is why thy dont feel very nice.

Fuel for the most part is what will increase or decrease your drive pressure. As drive pressure is measured at the manifold before the turbo. 1 to 1 is what you are looking for.

I would be interested to here about boost/ drive pressure numbers and pyrometer numbers when you get into the hills.

My truck is dialed in more for hills then for flat ground. But i live in the foothills of the Appalachian mountains.
 

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Alot of the fords back then ran a Allison at545 auto trans. They did not have a lock up converter. Which is why thy dont feel very nice.

Fuel for the most part is what will increase or decrease your drive pressure. As drive pressure is measured at the manifold before the turbo. 1 to 1 is what you are looking for.

I would be interested to here about boost/ drive pressure numbers and pyrometer numbers when you get into the hills.

My truck is dialed in more for hills then for flat ground. But i live in the foothills of the Appalachian mountains.

I'm also going to check for boost leaks again. I've ordered a leak tester that will fit the new turbo. I also have a small uppipe leak on the driver side at the manifold. So I'm also going to address that when I pull the heads. But I'm not sure how much of a issue it is. I can put my hand over it when the truck first starts and it's a very very small leak.

I've heard the KC turbos do very well compared to the T flange conversions when it comes to drive pressure. As they are both basically S300 turbos. The T4 does have the potential to flow more for obvious reasons. I also think converting my injectors to 160/30 single shots will help me out as well for temps compared to the split shots I currently have.
 

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Not the fun I planned on having yesterday. I replaced all the fuel line hoses.
Good news, none of the new hoses leaked bad news there's still a leak. I'm thinking it may be come from rear of left pump. So maybe the copper crush washer.

You know it couldn't of waited until I got the Efuel system ready. I'll be leaving again in next couple of days. Thankfully I'll only be working 5 hours away this time.
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Absolution

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I've been super busy lately. But I traveled home 4 hours this past weekend and ripped out the mechanical fuel pump and all it's connections.

Then I got the air compressor and alternator off.

I got one set of studs installed and a new set of AC injectors.

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Absolution

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Here We go! Two weekends and non stop from dawn to evening. I got it fired up late last night and today I drove it a bit before I had to get back on the road to travel 5 hours back to work.

The build so far is.
Orion - single shot tunes from PHP running 275hp setting
160/0 injectors from Full Force diesel
Kc300X stage 1
Homemade 4" Downpipe, 5" Donaldson muffler, 4" factory stack
Bellowed uppipes
910 valve springs
ARP head studs
Dual Super Duty pumps - Removed mechanical lift pump
DIY Regulated return with fuel bowl delete (Set at 65-67 PSI)
Hiflow Banjo bolts
CNC Fab Hpop Lines
Riffraff crossover
Some Ebay Plenums

So, This time around with the custom tunes the throttle response seemed to be even better, The truck was also running slightly cooler and cleaner. (Or at least the EGTs were climbing slower.)
The RPM limit seems to of been lowered from 3000 to 2800. But that may have been Bill slowing down the defuel map as before I made comment about the throttle just cutting out instantly when I hit 3000 running through gears.
The cleaner bit may also be from Bill turning down the pre boost fuel. - He may have also done this where I said I wanted to clean up some of the smoke.

The idle seems to be way smoother as well. But That could also be because I found two random reman AD's hiding under a valve cover so maybe one of them was acting up. (Even though with my other tool I passed injector tests multiple times.)

The truck does have a weird cackle now when around 1500ish RPM both through the high idle and computer, as far as the high idle is concerned this maybe the computer trying to catch itself from spinning faster.

It also has a lope almost when you cut out of throttle and let it return to idle almost as if the timing is very advanced (This is an ignorant guess my experience isn't with 7.3s) But I could also guess it maybe because of air still being in the HPOP lines. The truck also takes a minute to start but I'm also very very sure this is from air being in the Hpop lines still. (I really hope that's all it is)

I did also ring the trucks neck once on my dirt road, I got the rear tires to scoot sideway a little when the boost came on. So anything that can do that with a 17,500lb truck has me loving it.

Besides my EGT and boost gauge.
I still need to build my gauge cluster. But I'll wait for that next weekend I'm taking a break. I stand in the sun all week in 90* 80% weather no sitting down till I go to sleep. So driving 5 hours one way and spending weekends standing on a 2" tie rod isn't the most relaxing thing to do.
But I have HPOP, Fuel pressure, oil temp, exhaust pressure I need to install.

I also want to write emails at some point in time this week to tell each vender I bought from how overall happy I am with the truck. My first impression has been amazing so far.

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Nutball

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I like clean burning. No need to blow soot. I'd imagine it could plug up the valves, but apparently not enough to cause problems on most trucks.
 

Absolution

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I like clean burning. No need to blow soot. I'd imagine it could plug up the valves, but apparently not enough to cause problems on most trucks.

It doesn't harden or anything like that. My drag truck will smoke until around 2200rpm if I'm all the way in the throttle.
I just like it from a work truck preference.
 

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Does a cleaner tune make more power? I would assume so because you are not leaving the fuel half unburned, but perhaps diesel makes more power by burning more fuel at the expense of not completely burning it?

I don't like the mess or smell of soot, but I'm around it a lot: idling bucket truck or driving behind it, the chip truck, chipper. I'm not sure if the mini skid is as clean smelling as it used to be.
 

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Does a cleaner tune make more power? I would assume so because you are not leaving the fuel half unburned, but perhaps diesel makes more power by burning more fuel at the expense of not completely burning it?

I don't like the mess or smell of soot, but I'm around it a lot: idling bucket truck or driving behind it, the chip truck, chipper. I'm not sure if the mini skid is as clean smelling as it used to be.

So black smoke is "wasted fuel" and heat. Unlike gas motors, a diesel rich is hot and lean is cooler.

But when it comes to a turbo heat is what actually drives it so pre boost fuel is extra fuel which is what will get the turbo spooled up sooner so your over all performance will be better. That pre boost fuel will cut out either by a computer telling it to or a mechanical AFC like on a 12 valve Cummins.

*pretty boyes on 12 valves will turn in the pre fuel screw till it smokes non stop, leading to higher EGTs and not any real performance over a cleaner set up.
 
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jmester

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How does your dampener look?

Stock?

Only reason i ask is i broke the crank in my 12 valve from the stock viscous dampener going bad.

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More rpm and horsepower. I had 10k in the motor and never thought to replace the dampener.
 

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How does your dampener look?

Stock?

Only reason i ask is i broke the crank in my 12 valve from the stock viscous dampener going bad.

View attachment 308069 View attachment 308070

Mine is still stock, I have fears for the aftermarket fluid dampener. I've heard some stories of the one for the 7.3s failing. But It was something I looked into.

Frankly I'm also no where near the boat motor 7.3s which turned 4200 and 3800 for full time over full power as far as I know they used the same internals as the stock forged trucks.

with 2800 I'm more like the stock 7.3 powerstrokes now.
 
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Absolution

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Well, my job may get extended if that happens I'm going to save up for a RTLO 13 speed, shifter, and clutch.
Which I feel will complete my drivetrain wants.... Well maybe besides air ride bags lol.

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