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What are you building with your milled wood?

RI Chevy

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Nice Mike. Looks like it would be a little tipsy based on the top. But beautiful job on it.
 

MustangMike

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My Brother (an Engineer) thought so too, but it isn't, too heavy to be easily tipped. They are also a little wider than they look. The table is 34" wide.

People sit on the side and it does not move.
 

Moparmyway

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Kevin (LI Kevin), nice Oak slab, but if using epoxy for an outdoor project, be careful which stuff you use.

My research into it concluded that unless you have to "mask up" to use it, it will not last outside.
West Systems is marine industry standard epoxy, holding glass & CF together on just about every boat on the water. It’s not a “vinyl” based epoxy, however, I am looking into the Sikkens that Kevin suggested.
 

PA Dan

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Anyone ever mill Chinese Chestnut? Cut one yesterday and brought a 4' chunk home to mill. Wonder what it looks like inside?
9ec8ad364f147ef6cba7cb42bf41d37d.jpg
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MustangMike

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Made some slats to get my wood drying. Got one more log to do sometime. Was thinking about puting a few rachet straps arpund the pile when i get the other log done to help incase they want to twist. Anyone ever do that?

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Yes, it works well. Did that with the posts and beams we used for my cabin (6.5 X 6.5 Ash 12' to 27' long).
 

merc_man

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So just wondering. Anybody ever figure out how many board feet a saw is good for befor it ready for a rebuild. I know thery lots of variables but just a rough figure.

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HuskyHead

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Planning to have some white oak milled into some 2x10s as floor joist for my building project. Other than sealing and that they won’t be in ground contact any other concerns about using oak except for the weight?
 

Guido Salvage

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Planning to have some white oak milled into some 2x10s as floor joist for my building project. Other than sealing and that they won’t be in ground contact any other concerns about using oak except for the weight?

You may want to treat for insects if not kiln dried.
 

EbS-P

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Kevin (LI Kevin), nice Oak slab, but if using epoxy for an outdoor project, be careful which stuff you use.

My research into it concluded that unless you have to "mask up" to use it, it will not last outside.

Looking forward to pics of the finished product.

For indoor use, the Ultra Clear seems to work great, and I just like a seal coat, not a flood coat.

My table is Chestnut Oak on both sides with a Red Oak in the middle, and the bench is Chestnut Oak.
My googling found that wood epoxy doesn’t have the UV protection and will degrade unless coated with something UV protection. I’d consider marine finishes.

I went with General Finishes 450 for outdoor benches. It may not be best for a table but I’d try based on how the benches came out.

For my indoor tables I used varathane triple thick. Basically poured it on spread it around. Two coats. Then finished with two thin coats of clear urathane that I knew was really durable.

It’s soft enough not to crack when table gets dented (poplar is a soft wood).
 

Wolverine

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Made some slats to get my wood drying. Got one more log to do sometime. Was thinking about puting a few rachet straps arpund the pile when i get the other log done to help incase they want to twist. Anyone ever do that?
Yep, straps work, just keep retightening.
So just wondering. Anybody ever figure out how many board feet a saw is good for before it ready for a rebuild. I know theory lots of variables but just a rough figure.
Too many variables. IMO there's no magic number.
 

MustangMike

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I have my next wood working project in my mind, constantly being edited!

I have some 2" thick, 24" wide 7'6" long milled Red Oak. I'm planning to cut one 6' long and rip it in half and use it as sides (with live edge up front).

I'll buy a piece of 5/8" plywood to use for the back, and make the shelf, bottom and top out of Shag Bark Hickory (I have some that I dried in the garage so it does not have any bugs or color fade).

The guns will be vertical. Rough dimensions will be 6' tall, 4' wide and 1' deep. There will be some storage space for ammo under the guns.

Not sure what I will do for doors, considering using plexiglass.

If anyone has any helpful suggestions, I'm all ears!

I already have 2 store bought gun cabinets (one vertical, one horizontal), but they are both over loaded. Although I will design this to fit scoped rifles, I'm initially planning to put my Lever Action rifles and shotguns in this case. I'll then leave my Bolt guns in the horizontal case, and my 22s, semi autos, Muzzleloaders and some collectables (Remington Rolling Block and Frank Wesson Bicycle Pistol) in the other vertical case.
 
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