Wedges...

[huskyboy]

Ok guys I think this forum needs a thread on wedges since there isn’t really a definitive one. Post up anything about wedges, your favorite ones, most hated ones, overrated ones, how much you pay for them and pictures of them being used... ect. Basically anything about them. I want to learn more about them and I’m sure others would too.

 

[huskyboy]

I just bought these 10” wedges from madsens after @CLEARCUT recommended them. They were affordable ($4.95 a piece) and look like good quality. I’ll share my experiences after I use them more.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I make my own using a table saw and they work very well:

The workpiece is usually between 2" and 2.5" thick, usually oak or ash, and about 9" long and 4" wide. Angle cut the thick end of the wedge to form an isosceles triangle. Shape the sharp end as needed.

 

[Thumper88]

I keep 25 or 30 of the small 5" wedges from ebay in the truck all the time. They work good for smaller diameter trees. For bigger trees where they will fit I prefer the 10 and 12" K&H red heads. I drive them home with a 5.5 lb warren axe on a straight 28" handle

 

[Catbuster]

I use K&H Redheads. They don’t compress very much but don’t do anything when you catch them with your chain, and let’s face it, we all nick wedges with chains. They also stack pretty well, even two triple taple wedges will stack flat sides together and you can drive them. Hard Heads have a habit of popping out when I try to stack them and drive on the heads.

I use 10” triple tape wedges more than anything else. They seem to lift a lot, especially at the second bevel, and you can still double them. I don’t have many short wedges (<8”) and 12” wedges are usually just single bevel and don’t get much lift in smaller wood, which is what I’m usually into. Above 24” wood the bigger wedges really shine because you can get a lot of lift out of them by stacking them without getting into your bar.

I drive my wedges with a 5 lb Sager head on a 30” handle. I also have a 6 lb Council Tool axe on a 36” handle, but the longer handle can be unwieldy at times. I don’t like driving wedges with a maul or sledge hammer, the pole is too short and you end up denting a softer wedge’s end or cracking a Hard Head.

 

[jmester]

I use the Madsens Blue ox wedges. Love them they take a pounding and are reasonably priced. They also stack well. Dont use them as much anymore. But they were all I used when I was felling timber.

I don't care for hard head wedges. I have broken to many handles driving them. Plus I always had the metal çap bust of in the winter.

 

[Sagebrush33]

use K&H Redheads

Hard Heads have a habit of popping out when I try to stack them and drive on the heads.

Duly noted. I recently was tipping a black cherry over to another cherry. A hung the one out of the other and wanted to lean it towards the block so I could take the slack out of the rope before cutting it loose. It was about 12-14'' in diam, I stacked 2 short hard heads at opposing angles for that bit of lift while leaving room to run the saw. The wedges fought me.

 

[Skeans1]

Used the Madsen’s for years as well as Scotsco normally 10” to 12” as well as double tapers. For a beater I’ve used to aluminum drivers they’re fine but much prefer a 15” double taper it’s softer on the vibrations and doesn’t mess up a chain if you knick one. For stacking and I know ahead of time I’ll be stacking Black Bear makes some wedges with a groove set that will not allow them to split a part. Best wedge hands down if available is a shovel or a set of jacks you’re not beating your brains out on a back leaner.


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[CLEARCUT]

I favor 10 inch Madsens or Red Top wedges.

 

[CLEARCUT]

Sometimes we’ve gotta go organic when we are out of options.

 

[CLEARCUT]

Used the Madsen’s for years as well as Scotsco normally 10” to 12” as well as double tapers. For a beater I’ve used to aluminum drivers they’re fine but much prefer a 15” double taper it’s softer on the vibrations and doesn’t mess up a chain if you knick one. For stacking and I know ahead of time I’ll be stacking Black Bear makes some wedges with a groove set that will not allow them to split a part. Best wedge hands down if available is a shovel or a set of jacks you’re not beating your brains out on a back leaner.


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Jacks are sure awesome. I’ve been loving the self-contained small ram for roadside second-growth. Shovel is great too as long as the operator has some sense and isn’t too high-strung.

 

[Skeans1]

Jacks are sure awesome. I’ve been loving the self-contained small ram for roadside second-growth. Shovel is great too as long as the operator has some sense and isn’t too high-strung.

The best operator of one for a project like that is a guy that has cut timber before. The self contained jack would be nice for packing out and for most of the timber anymore it’s more then enough. Are you running the 45 or 50 ton self contained setup?


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[CapitaineHaddoc]

Wide and long wedges for me. And if two of them aren't enough, I take the jack.

Oh and a little trick, when you carry two long wedges, if your saw is pinched in a cut, I just put a wedgde in the cut and I hit it with the other one. Most of time it's enough to unpinch the saw, and I don't have to go back to the stump to get the axe.

 

[drf256]

I made a bunch out of white oak when I had to noodle the rounds to make them manageable. Spray bombed ‘em. Work pretty well, I gotta say.

 

[Johnmn]

For plastic wedges I just use what the local farm/fleet store has, I believe they are oregon branded wedges. I used to make wood wedges too and I like those better.
But my favorite thing to do and what I did/do most is just back my skidder into the tree and use it for directional falling assistance.

 

[pwheel]

I use Stihl wedges. They have a hidden safety feature where they may shatter in sub-freezing temperatures, probably to protect the axe handle, or something like that...

 

[Sagebrush33]

I use Stihl wedges. They have a hidden safety feature where they may shatter in sub-freezing temperatures, probably to protect the axe handle, or something like that...

Sometimes I just use my Stihl as the wedge.

 

[CLEARCUT]

The best operator of one for a project like that is a guy that has cut timber before. The self contained jack would be nice for packing out and for most of the timber anymore it’s more then enough. Are you running the 45 or 50 ton self contained setup?


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I have a 45 ton that I use a bit, but lately I’ve been using a 28 ton a lot. Nice and light. Seems perfect for these decent second growth like I’ve been cutting up on Signal Tree.

 

[deye223]

Nothing but 10 inch and 8 inch hard head wedges here if I used ordinary plastic ones I go through 10 a day .

 

[Wood Doctor]

Here's a few of the hardwood wedges (white oak in this case) that I illustrated in post #3. Easy to carry in my back pocket, I normally use them while bucking felled logs or while saving the short stump:

The hole allows a hang up clipping several together. They work very well to prevent bar pinch or to help free a bar already pinched due to a sudden squeeze. I've also been known to paint a bright stripe around them as a finding aid. I used one of these wedges today today while bucking big elm. Worked perfectly. Thanks for looking.