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Gizzard

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Trying to be "thrifty" I was discussing with @Dream that he would have a good starter pulley for his PM6A possibly in that salvage MM6A he picked up. That would not be the case. Either have to shim arbor on MM6A to work in PM6A or enlarge arbor on PM6A to work in MM6A (arbor for PM6A =0.438 vs MM6A=0.625). Just eyeballing parts laying around I thought they was darn near same. The diameters are close enough (2.5 in PM6A vs 2.625 in MM6A) and distance front to back approx. same (1.25 in). The MM6A was not given as heavy a tooth/pawl as PM6A pulley to engage recoil spring. Attached a picture here of 3 starter pulleys- PM6A on left metal/plastic combo, disintegrated MM6A in center metal/plastic combo, and PM6 on right all metal pulley.

Last picture is of reverse side of PM6A on left and MM6A on right with view of smaller lug on MM6A.
IMG_3840.JPG IMG_3842.JPG
 

Dream

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Trying to be "thrifty" I was discussing with @Dream that he would have a good starter pulley for his PM6A possibly in that salvage MM6A he picked up. That would not be the case. Either have to shim arbor on MM6A to work in PM6A or enlarge arbor on PM6A to work in MM6A (arbor for PM6A =0.438 vs MM6A=0.625). Just eyeballing parts laying around I thought they was darn near same. The diameters are close enough (2.5 in PM6A vs 2.625 in MM6A) and distance front to back approx. same (1.25 in). The MM6A was not given as heavy a tooth/pawl as PM6A pulley to engage recoil spring. Attached a picture here of 3 starter pulleys- PM6A on left metal/plastic combo, disintegrated MM6A in center metal/plastic combo, and PM6 on right all metal pulley.

Last picture is of reverse side of PM6A on left and MM6A on right with view of smaller lug on MM6A.
View attachment 243154 View attachment 243155

Guessing they made the OD smaller on the PM6A to reduce weight, but the ID larger for more frequent use.
Think the PM6 was a project for them to come up with a light and powerful trim saw for climbing work, so parts might not be the same.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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Think the PM6 was a project for them to come up with a light and powerful trim saw for climbing work.

You mean it wasn't to invent the first version of one of the most notorious pain in the ass saws in the history of the world?
 

Gizzard

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@Steve is use to me & save a buck. Apologize for leading down wrong way road. It is a possible fix, but most not use/waste the time. I live in a haggle/low ball you to death area.
 

Gizzard

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I can’t speak highly on the lil red top handle homies either. They multiply like rabbits & refuse to work.
 

Gizzard

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I don’t think the power macs or mini macs are to bad, but went to service training on them. The mini’s seem pretty quick once make yourself go through it once. Now the little red xl’s will bring some bad language from best of people with there bar oil from carb vacuum & the multiple duck bill valves, clutch/bar cover built into saw chassis, fuel tank of magnesium that rots out & weld screws in. Worst conglomeration I remember coming into shop in ‘70’s.
 

Steve

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@Steve is use to me & save a buck. Apologize for leading down wrong way road. It is a possible fix, but most not use/waste the time. I live in a haggle/low ball you to death area.


I heard muh name. :D
 

Al Smith

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The Mini's were inexpensive saws and tree trimmers would buy them because they were cheap .They might get lucky and get a season out of them .Home owners would buy them,trim the apple tree and sit them on the shelf .The next spring it would not start .I've had several with the original chains that had never been sharpened .Two types these days .Those that run good and those that do not run at all ,no middle ground .
 

PogoInTheWoods

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Nah, there's plenty of middle ground, Al. That's what makes them so entertaining! LOL

I'm actually one of the few who doesn't mind working on them at all since stumbling across Rich Dougan's "Mini Mac Challenge" video. They're stupid simple to service once you know just a couple of the key steps of disassembly. The main problem with them is the frequent lack of gratification once they're back together and need to immediately come apart again for another stab at whatever it is you thought you fixed! The little Homies definitely give them a run for the money, but they're easy too once you've done a few.

So what exactly is the ultimate objective with the PM6A being discussed here? Locating a correct starter pulley? They should be a dime a dozen. Think I may even have a couple.
 

Gizzard

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I probably should have just messaged about the starter pulley and not posted the info. They are like 3400 poulan starter pulleys in getting rare. I have sold all OEM I had and most of used carcasses that buy are broke too. I didn't realize there was still plenty of them around. I have a large graveyard of them but have used all pulleys now (the 3400 graveyard is even larger with maybe a couple pulleys left. If look at online sales places most sellers know they got hens teeth with 3400 or PM6A starter pulleys...occasionally can be a blind squirrell and find a nut though). To keep one PM6A going I had taken the MM6A pulley and modified it to work and keep one going. That was what was posting to help out Dream. I am sending him one of last correct pulleys I have too.
 

Gizzard

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Also, just pointing out that there were 2 different material types for the pulley that were used, the metal/plastic and all metal. I may have duplicated info already in this thread earlier....didn't mean to do that.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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Gotcha. I'm most grateful for the enlightenment.

I didn't realize they were so hard to come by. I came across a box of PM6 parts some time ago that included several complete starter/tank assemblies and see the saws for sale constantly in my area of Ohio. Just assumed it was like that everywhere.

You now have my curiosity stirring about the condition of the pulleys in my box of tanks/starters. I know one thing for sure..., the fuel lines would never seal!
 

Gizzard

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Not a problem asking. I come about some additional inventory from a closed up shop in this area a few years back and all pulleys were pulled from starters except a couple. The PM6A's were popular enough in this area that still getting them brought in for service by tree cutters until a few years back. I think this has stopped now as last guy I knew still running one for business finally retired and same with couple other guys a few years before him. That last older tree climber finally retired around age 76 and he sold me his PM6A then. That guy used an 009 Stihl as backup. A few older guys still at it bring in 011 Stihls for repairs. The newer tree climbing trimming guys seem to just buy something and retire it as soon as they have a problem. Then they just buy something new. I notice the younger guys now days charge quite a bit more for same work than what the older guys fixing their equipment charged. That pm6a pulley of the plastic/metal combo did not last forever same as the all plastic pulley in Pol 3400...especially with guys that had one that wouldn't start.

Out of 9-12 pm6/pm6a that messed with through years only noticed the one with all metal pulley and it lasted until that saw was retired. You are on the money too with getting that fuel line stub to seal good.

You are right that the minis can be unforgiving at times, but they are simple as you mention to get into and out of. I didn't mean to be so hard on the little red ones yesterday...just have some idiots still bringing them in for repairs and they are not worth it. They could buy a new saw for price of shopwork on their mistreated machines.

I go to one or more of Lucasville sale each yr (I guess when there is no Covid shut downs) and to Columbus to see relatives...maybe I'll run into you sometime if those locations near your area. I'm mid age 50's now, but still like to learn from whomever.
 

Dream

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Hi guys.
Didnt mean to stir anything up.
I sense some frustration about the Mms and PM6s. They are a little challenging, but fun if youre not in a hurry.
Same with the little Homies. Ive got a few of those. None that run right now for one reason or another. Dont really mind working on them, as long as they dont have to come back apart more than 3 times at a sitting.

Did get the fuel line to seal on the PM6A by poking a Viton O ring up inside the tank receiver.

Just gonna get a starter pulley and some tank retainer nut clips and see how she runs.
 

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So I pulled down the rest of one of my PM700 carcasses to see what good parts ive got left.
Clutch, cover, and choke linkage were missing, along with ignition coil and one bar stud.
Flywheel is bad. Separating from hub insert.
Tank is good.
Good recoil housing. Auto and manual oiler pumps looked nice.
Piston is chewed up some on exhaust side, and looks like something went into intake at some point by the marks on the piston skirt.
Going to clean the cylinder up some and see if its useable.
Also, piston pin bearings look like they got pretty hot.

Take a look and see if anybody knows if this is a replacement cylinder.
Here are some markings.
0529201900a.jpg 0529201901.jpg 0529201901a.jpg 0529201901b.jpg 0529201902.jpg
 

Dream

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Gotcha. I'm most grateful for the enlightenment.

I didn't realize they were so hard to come by. I came across a box of PM6 parts some time ago that included several complete starter/tank assemblies and see the saws for sale constantly in my area of Ohio. Just assumed it was like that everywhere.

You now have my curiosity stirring about the condition of the pulleys in my box of tanks/starters. I know one thing for sure..., the fuel lines would never seal!
Got the same problem as Gizzard.
Stuff is hard to find down here. Can find plenty of Mini Macs, but this PM6A is the first one ive even seen.
 

Steve

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Got the same problem as Gizzard.
Stuff is hard to find down here. Can find plenty of Mini Macs, but this PM6A is the first one ive even seen.


Yep, Kevin has had to import all his macs!
 

Dream

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Yep, Kevin has had to import all his macs!
I remember seeing a PM850 somewhere years ago before I caught yellow fever. I remember thinking how id hate to swing that beast all day. Now I REALLY want one.
Ive never even seen an SP125 except in pictures. I dont believe they exist down here. Theres really nothing big enough to use them on.
Of course I want one. Am I going to pay what they bring now? Nope.
 

Al Smith

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I think what happens on the horizontal 10 series engines is because they have a bottom exit exhaust .Some mufflers have a curvature in the bottom and some it just hits a sharp bend with no curvature .
In the later depending on the design they could make another bend on the outlet .Combine that pizz poor design with the fact they use an impulse operated oil pump that will in some degree suck chain oil into the crankcase .This pyrolites, effectively turning into petro coke which chews up the exhaust side of the piston in time .The air filters aren't the best design which works on the intake side .
The best of those mufflers are the ones with a curvature with large baffles and no second curve .The worst are those square things with screens .If you want them to run omit the baffles and wear ear plugs,you're going to need them .Then just about like every McCulloch you have to tune them just a wee bit rich . BTW you have to knock the sawdust off those filters more often than a more modern saw .You get passed all that a 700 is a pretty dependable saw with plenty of power .
 
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