MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Bigmac]

125s are so much fun. I bet you smile when its used just because of the sound and feel. They can be very impressive. I remember the first time i ran one. It honestly kinda scared me. Man that thing ran strong. Now i have a cp125, sp125, sp125c. Not so scary anymore.

Nice collection! So you’re saying your ready for 101 power!

 

[Squareground3691]

Damn! That's the nicest looking 125 I think I've ever seen! How are the mechanics in it?

In very good mechanical condition !!

 

[Squareground3691]

Don’t make Lee post his saws! Lol

Yea he’s in his own league lol

 

[Vinnywv]

Nice collection! So you’re saying your ready for 101 power!

Id try one with no question, yes!!

 

[edju1958]

Good news again today.I got the needed insulator from chainsawr today & put it in the saw that needed it.Put the throttle handle back on & the recoil & carb.I pulled it over 15 times & no fire.I gave it a prime & then it took off.A couple of carb adjustments & it runs like a champ.The manual oiler is working fine,I have no idea about the automatic oiler though.
This saw was a huge bite in my backside 4 yrs.ago.I had no extra parts like I do now.I bought the saw fairly cheap on Feebay (I wanna say around $25,maybe more).It had good compression & I decided to make it a runner,but I ran into problems.I was trying to put a helicoil in for the muffler & broke the tap off in the engine.I took the saw to my local saw shop & I'll never forget the crappy grin on the owner's face as he told me "Ed,you're f*#!ed.I made up my mind right then & there that I was gonna get this saw running & then shove it in the owner's face.It took me about 3 1/2 yrs.to get it running again.Four yrs.ago I drilled out the broken tap & then JB Welded the gaping hole,then drilled out the JB Weld & put a helicoil in that.The muffler screw held.Fast fwd.almost 4 yrs.& I finally got the saw running.It runs so good that I couldn't shut it off,Lol.Either the switch is bad,or the kill wire is no good (it's not original).That's 2 610s down & 3 to go.

 

[Al Smith]

This doesn't mean much to most people but it does to me .This is a Mac 125 that was missing the cap that closes the adjustment access hole for the carb .I had a cork stuck in that hole for years .It was only in the last week I found the closuer for it thanks to Mark H .I've only been looking about 20 years to find one .So now the old gal is factory completed as will be another 125 and 105 .This example came out of northern California .It handles that 36" bar buried in oak like childs play with an 8 tooth and full comp .404 chisel .

 

[Vinnywv]

I get it. I cant say years but for quite some time i was looking for the bottom mount bracket and coil bracket for a cp70/55. I made many phone calls and followed many leads to no avail. I resorted to watching ebay. It took a very long time but i finally saw the bottom bracket listed on ebay one morning. Instantly bought it. Asked the seller about the coil part and they threw it in for free.

 

[edju1958]

I got another 610 running today,that makes 3 in the last 3 days.I'm not completely finished with those saws though.I need top put the needle grommets in & on one saw either replace the wire or the switch.I need to find the air filter covers & the air filters (I have plenty of filters,I bought a bunch of good used filters about 2-3 yrs.ago).I also need to finish the chain brakes on a couple saws .I need to hunt up a skid plate for the last saw,along with an oil pump & a few other odds 'n ends.I've been using the one saw as a donor rather than waste time hunting up a part here & there.I like working outside when it's nice,like it's been for the past 3 days here.Now when the weather takes a turn tomorrow I can hunt those parts up while being inside.
I remember from taking shop class in high school that there were 4 elements needed in order for an internal combustion engine to run - spark,compression,fuel,& air.The 2 cycle is a bit different than the 4 cycle,but the same basics apply.Here is a pic of the last 2 saws I got running,kinda running late & didn't have time to grab the 3rd.I'll take a pic of all 5 when I'm done with 'em.

 

[edju1958]

Does anyone know how to change out a throttle rod on a 610?Don't tell me to just push on it like on a 10 series saw because it doesn't work.It almost looks to me like the trigger needs to be dropped in order to get the old rod out & put a new rod in.If this is the case I'll be better off getting a different handle asltogether because once the trigger is dropped out the spring wioll become unraveled & lose tension.I'm not good with things like that.Some more of Mac's brilliant engineering.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Does anyone know how to change out a throttle rod on a 610?Don't tell me to just push on it like on a 10 series saw because it doesn't work.It almost looks to me like the trigger needs to be dropped in order to get the old rod out & put a new rod in.If this is the case I'll be better off getting a different handle asltogether because once the trigger is dropped out the spring wioll become unraveled & lose tension.I'm not good with things like that.Some more of Mac's brilliant engineering.

How do you drop the trigger on those Ed? Is it a roll pin?

 

[heimannm]

Yes Ed- drive the pin out but it you do it carefully you can manage without the springs leaving their places. I drive a long punch all the way through to hold the trigger, then while holding the trigger remove the punch, gently lower the trigger to allow the throttle rod to come out then reverse the procedure. You much use a long, thin punch and come in from the right hand side through the hollow slot in the handle. The pin won't go the other way.

Mark

 

[edju1958]

Yes Ed- drive the pin out but it you do it carefully you can manage without the springs leaving their places. I drive a long punch all the way through to hold the trigger, then while holding the trigger remove the punch, gently lower the trigger to allow the throttle rod to come out then reverse the procedure. You much use a long, thin punch and come in from the right hand side through the hollow slot in the handle. The pin won't go the other way.

Mark

Thanks Mark,but I believe the hollow end of the slot is on the left side of the handle.I'll take another look to make sure.Regardless,I've got the idea.

 

[edju1958]

How do you drop the trigger on those Ed? Is it a roll pin?

Mark explains it above.

 

[Dream]

Mark explains it above.

Ed, let me know if you need some "visual help". Ive got a couple of 650s in boxes I can pull out. They are similar.
I understand better than most about the eyesight thing.
We all have our weaknesses. Never thought this would be mine.
Father time and Mother nature are sometimes not the best parents....

 

[Bigmac]

Some eBay Mac bling

 

[Al Smith]

I've got three 610's .mine ,my dad's and an almost new looking one I bought for my son .One year I went through another 4 of them for others .They have plenty of power for 60 cc's but are a tad heavy which cutting firewood doesn't present a problem .Several had bad oil pumps which try as I might I could never get right .If the old kerosene treatment didn't work I had to change them .
One problem I had was the ignition coils failing after a long hard run .What it turned out to be was a build up of chips under the suspension system that hindered the air flow because I didn't keep them cleaned out .That cured that problem .Another typical thing is they will rattle to bolts loose so every so often checking the tightness stopped that .
Because of the way with a bottom exit exhaust with an upturn and an impulse oiler the danged things could suck bar oil which clogged the screens and carboned up the exhaust port .This over time will chew away at the piston .Usually just removing the screen cleared up that problem which also improved how they ran .That mentioned in my experience even with a chewed up piston they kept on running and very well . I haven't paid attention to prices but they used to be a 50 dollar saw in these parts .

 

[Al Smith]

Back in the wood burning rage Oregon sold a package they called a "cord cutter " It came with two chains and a file with a guide .It was supposed to be able to cut a full cord just by switching chains .I never found out because I filed them until nothing was left of them then used the second one .When I was selling firewood I went through about 4 chains a year .In that 8-9 year period I think I used up 4 bars ,spin the nose bearings right out of them .Those Oregon bars were not replaceable nose pieces .

 

[edju1958]

Ed, let me know if you need some "visual help". Ive got a couple of 650s in boxes I can pull out. They are similar.
I understand better than most about the eyesight thing.
We all have our weaknesses. Never thought this would be mine.
Father time and Mother nature are sometimes not the best parents....

Thank you Dreram! It's good to know that someone here has my back in the visual dept.I should be good though,I have a son who helps me out when it comes to something I'm having problems with when it comes to not being able to see something that I'm working on,albeit begrudgingly.I have visual aids I use too.Not too often ya hear of a legally blind person working on chainsaws.Yet there are some folks here who just don't get it,or even care.

 

[edju1958]

I've got three 610's .mine ,my dad's and an almost new looking one I bought for my son .One year I went through another 4 of them for others .They have plenty of power for 60 cc's but are a tad heavy which cutting firewood doesn't present a problem .Several had bad oil pumps which try as I might I could never get right .If the old kerosene treatment didn't work I had to change them .
One problem I had was the ignition coils failing after a long hard run .What it turned out to be was a build up of chips under the suspension system that hindered the air flow because I didn't keep them cleaned out .That cured that problem .Another typical thing is they will rattle to bolts loose so every so often checking the tightness stopped that .
Because of the way with a bottom exit exhaust with an upturn and an impulse oiler the danged things could suck bar oil which clogged the screens and carboned up the exhaust port .This over time will chew away at the piston .Usually just removing the screen cleared up that problem which also improved how they ran .That mentioned in my experience even with a chewed up piston they kept on running and very well . I haven't paid attention to prices but they used to be a 50 dollar saw in these parts .

When I first started getting involved with saw repairing about 5 yrs.ago,a 610 could be had on Feebay for $25-$40 all day long.Now those saws are commanding $100 easily to start & they don't even runTake a look & you'll be aghast at what they're going for now..I bought all the 610s my local saw shop had for either $15 or $20 each,that was 4 yrs.ago.There were 2 saws that ran perfectly,all I did was put fuel in them & adjust the carbs.One had a broken chain brake flag.I sold one of the 610 saws for $125 within less than a week,easiest $100+ I ever made,Lol.

 

[Al Smith]

Once there was guy "Just David "who hawked those things for upwards of $400 a pop on flea bay .You are correct though I have no idea what the used saw market is these days .Like I've said before it has to be rare ,able to be modified or cheap to get my attention .However if they meet that criteria when I get done with them they are 100 percent factory correct unless I modify them .I might add sometimes it might take several years before I round up all the parts .