MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Steve]

Ebay is fascinating to me. Typically, not always, but typically crazy prices are due to a pissing match of just 2 people that have to be the highest bidder through out the entire auction. Its great for sellers. Just fascinates me though. Remember the nos sp125c a couple weeks ago? It was 2 guys constantly outbidding each other all week. In the final seconds the winner bid 1 bid and his only bid of the auction. No it wasnt me but i watched it all week long.

That last guy was a robot. People way smarter than me can set up programs to outbid in the last 5ms of an auction. I rarely win an ebay auction because of it.

 

[Lee H]

I can almost guarantee that 797 will be listed again, I was quite surprised someone
put a bid with a starting bid of 1900.00.

 

[edju1958]

C'mon Vinny,I did an almost daily write up on the 125 progress last May/June when I got it together & running over on the other forum.

Today was somewhat a waste of time.I had intentions of putting the automatic oil pump back in the 2-10.I was also going to change the oil tank out so I wouldn't have to drill the 2-10 oiol tank,but found that I'd stripped down the 10-10 short block a little further than I should have.Upon taking a look at the oil pump,I found that it needed work.The piston kept wanting to stick,so out came the croakus cloth to "sand" the outer edge of the piston.I ended up shining up the piston rod too as it wanted to stick there too.I finally got it working good & remembered that was the pump that I lost the tiny spring out of on the check valve.Luckily I got one from Bob (he went balistic on me),so I set that pump aside & got one out that I bought from Mark a while back.Then I had to locate the mounting screws.Usually I put them back in the pump so as not to lose them.I finally got the pump installed & I put the tiny little spring back in the other pump.Of course I had to fiddle with the other 2 pumps I got in the parts lot & got them both working too.

As long as I'm on the subject of oil pumps,here's a silly question.I was told that the eartly 10 series saws had the metal body pumps in them & if I'm replacing the pump I must put another metal body pump back in.Why can't I put a plastic body pump in?It's got the same mounting pattern,the only difference is one is metal & the other is plastic.

 

[Steve]

C'mon Vinny,I did an almost daily write up on the 125 progress last May/June when I got it together & running over on the other forum.

Today was somewhat a waste of time.I had intentions of putting the automatic oil pump back in the 2-10.I was also going to change the oil tank out so I wouldn't have to drill the 2-10 oiol tank,but found that I'd stripped down the 10-10 short block a little further than I should have.Upon taking a look at the oil pump,I found that it needed work.The piston kept wanting to stick,so out came the croakus cloth to "sand" the outer edge of the piston.I ended up shining up the piston rod too as it wanted to stick there too.I finally got it working good & remembered that was the pump that I lost the tiny spring out of on the check valve.Luckily I got one from Bob (he went balistic on me),so I set that pump aside & got one out that I bought from Mark a while back.Then I had to locate the mounting screws.Usually I put them back in the pump so as not to lose them.I finally got the pump installed & I put the tiny little spring back in the other pump.Of course I had to fiddle with the other 2 pumps I got in the parts lot & got them both working too.

As long as I'm on the subject of oil pumps,here's a silly question.I was told that the eartly 10 series saws had the metal body pumps in them & if I'm replacing the pump I must put another metal body pump back in.Why can't I put a plastic body pump in?It's got the same mounting pattern,the only difference is one is metal & the other is plastic.

The metal body pumps where held in with either 3 screws from the outside of the tank or one from the inside. The plastic pumps can replace a 3 screw metal pump with no modification just fine. Just don't overtighten. But if you replace a Single screw metal pump with a single screw plastic pump you will need the two brass eyelets for the rear screw holes and the metal clip to support the pump body to keep it from warping and leaking bar oil into the crankcase.

So, yes, you can replace a metal pump with a plastic pump if you do it properly. And you can always replace a plastic pump with a metal pump. You just may have to drill your oil tank for a 3 screw pump which is a good idea anyway for very reliable pump mounting.

 

[Bigmac]

C'mon Vinny,I did an almost daily write up on the 125 progress last May/June when I got it together & running over on the other forum.

Today was somewhat a waste of time.I had intentions of putting the automatic oil pump back in the 2-10.I was also going to change the oil tank out so I wouldn't have to drill the 2-10 oiol tank,but found that I'd stripped down the 10-10 short block a little further than I should have.Upon taking a look at the oil pump,I found that it needed work.The piston kept wanting to stick,so out came the croakus cloth to "sand" the outer edge of the piston.I ended up shining up the piston rod too as it wanted to stick there too.I finally got it working good & remembered that was the pump that I lost the tiny spring out of on the check valve.Luckily I got one from Bob (he went balistic on me),so I set that pump aside & got one out that I bought from Mark a while back.Then I had to locate the mounting screws.Usually I put them back in the pump so as not to lose them.I finally got the pump installed & I put the tiny little spring back in the other pump.Of course I had to fiddle with the other 2 pumps I got in the parts lot & got them both working too.

As long as I'm on the subject of oil pumps,here's a silly question.I was told that the eartly 10 series saws had the metal body pumps in them & if I'm replacing the pump I must put another metal body pump back in.Why can't I put a plastic body pump in?It's got the same mounting pattern,the only difference is one is metal & the other is plastic.

Did you post anything here on the 125? If not it didn’t count! Lol

 

[edju1958]

Did you post anything here on the 125? If not it didn’t count! Lol

I can always post some pics of my 125 here.You'll have to wait for some warmer weather tho.It's buried in the garage right now somewhere behind the snowblower,Lol.

 

[edju1958]

I guess you won't have to wait for those pics after all,I found them here on my computer.

A little history on the saw first.I bought it from a guy in Tn.,he was a member on AS.He wanted $375 + shipping & I agreed.He was honest & told me it had a leak on the seam on the fuel tank.The saw must've sat in my living room for about a yr.before I brought it out one day to have it fire for some friendsI had to get a dust screen,bar plates,a muffler gasket,& a few other odds-n-ends bolts & screws.It came with a 36 in.bar & .404 chain.In Sept.2019 I finally pulled the saw apart to Red Kote the fuel tank.I let it set with fuel in it for about 2 weeks to ensure no leaks.The following month I had back surgery & put the saw away in a box.It sat in that box for over 1 1/2 yrs.before I got around to putting it back together.While putting it back together I found a tear in the boot,so had to find one in a hurry on Feebay.After I got the boot it went together quickly.It fired right up after only a few pulls.I ended up rebuilding the carb shortly after it ran.I still haven't put it in wood yet,but when the weather breaks in the spring I have a job for it.

 

[Steve]

I guess you won't have to wait for those pics after all,I found them here on my computer.

A little history on the saw first.I bought it from a guy in Tn.,he was a member on AS.He wanted $375 + shipping & I agreed.He was honest & told me it had a leak on the seam on the fuel tank.The saw must've sat in my living room for about a yr.before I brought it out one day to have it fire for some friendsI had to get a dust screen,bar plates,a muffler gasket,& a few other odds-n-ends bolts & screws.It came with a 36 in.bar & .404 chain.In Sept.2019 I finally pulled the saw apart to Red Kote the fuel tank.I let it set with fuel in it for about 2 weeks to ensure no leaks.The following month I had back surgery & put the saw away in a box.It sat in that box for over 1 1/2 yrs.before I got around to putting it back together.While putting it back together I found a tear in the boot,so had to find one in a hurry on Feebay.After I got the boot it went together quickly.It fired right up after only a few pulls.I ended up rebuilding the carb shortly after it ran.I still haven't put it in wood yet,but when the weather breaks in the spring I have a job for it.

View attachment 326331 View attachment 326332

I don't know Ed. Those fuzzy bigfoot pictures are suspect...

 

[Vinnywv]

Lol. The pictures jog my brain. I do remember that.

 

[edju1958]

Last night I picked up my 2-10 by the recoil rope & it pulled out all the way.This told me it had low compression,so I ordered a set of rings for it today.The DSP is stuck shut which is good because it's basically useless as far as I'm concerned.I used the saw today to test some coils (one was the coil I got in the parts lot on Feebay last week,the other one I found last night),they both tested good.Anyway,I put the plug in just like I did last time & picked the saw up by the rope again & this time it held in place.I hate like heck to put the saw back together only to find out that it really does have low compression.I also hate to put new rings in if it doesn't need 'em.I'm kinda stuck between a rock & a hard place.

I had to do some JB Welding on the coil wires.The well that the wires screw into ended up crumbling when I was picking out the remnants of the old wire.It's a tedious process getting a plug wire out of a Mac coil.Unlike a Homelite coil where ya just unscrew it.

 

[Bigmac]

Ok guy, going to hopefully get my sp81 together and running well, can you guys tell me the skf seal numbers for this style of bearings?

 

[jacob j.]

Ok guy, going to hopefully get my sp81 together and running well, can you guys tell me the skf seal numbers for this style of bearings? View attachment 326590View attachment 326591

I think @heimannm is the master blaster of that platform.

I think somewhere I have the PTO side seals so I'll check that out today.

 

[Al Smith]

From the cross reference C R seals .McCulloch #61618 --CR 5480---Edit I just looked it up on flea bay .A few using the CR number and a few using the McCulloch number .That seal was used on several 10 series engines .

 

[fossil]

Ok guy, going to hopefully get my sp81 together and running well, can you guys tell me the skf seal numbers for this style of bearings? View attachment 326590View attachment 326591

The correct FW side seals for the SP81 is either National (Timken) 471551 or SKF CR5756
Size is 0.562" X 1.379" X 0.25"

The National seals is a double lip the SKF seal is a single lip.
The outer lip on the National seal is a dust lip for abrasive conditions which is not required for sawdust.
Either will work equally well.

 

[Steve]

Ok guy, going to hopefully get my sp81 together and running well, can you guys tell me the skf seal numbers for this style of bearings? View attachment 326590View attachment 326591

The clutch side is national 253747.

 

[Al Smith]

--which if the cross reference is correct being Mc #110269 is also Cr 6120 .Now I'm not going to argue about it but I think some of these numbers might have been superseded over the years . I'm basing my findings from the seal books put out by Bearings Inc .I haven't double checked things on the internet which might be more up to date --Up date I did use on line SKF cross and some have been superseded which explains things . I could never figure out National because the print will make you go stone blind trying to find it .However saying that mouth full the SKF on line did give the sizes .On the book it would take a lot more time figuring them out plus the lip code .

 

[fossil]

--which if the cross reference is correct being Mc #110269 is also Cr 6120 .Now I'm not going to argue about it but I think some of these numbers might have been superseded over the years . I'm basing my findings from the seal books put out by Bearings Inc .I haven't double checked things on the internet which might be more up to date --Up date I did use on line SKF cross and some have been superseded which explains things . I could never figure out National because the print will make you go stone blind trying to find it .However saying that mouth full the SKF on line did give the sizes .On the book it would take a lot more time figuring them out plus the lip code .

You are right Al,
CR5480 has been superceded by SKF to 14X35X7. I think the seals I listed are a little closer than The metric SKF seal. It's a little tighter on the crankshaft and a little deeper on width. I'm not sure of the added width will make it touch the bearing cage.

 

[Steve]

--which if the cross reference is correct being Mc #110269 is also Cr 6120 .Now I'm not going to argue about it but I think some of these numbers might have been superseded over the years . I'm basing my findings from the seal books put out by Bearings Inc .I haven't double checked things on the internet which might be more up to date --Up date I did use on line SKF cross and some have been superseded which explains things . I could never figure out National because the print will make you go stone blind trying to find it .However saying that mouth full the SKF on line did give the sizes .On the book it would take a lot more time figuring them out plus the lip code .

Don't hurt yourself Al. Here is something to help us all!

https://www.timken.com/engineering-tools/seal-selection-tool/

 

[Bigmac]

Don't hurt yourself Al. Here is something to help us all!

https://www.timken.com/engineering-tools/seal-selection-tool/

That’s pretty cool Steve! That’s should be a sticky everywhere! Dose that have a support app? Lol

 

[Steve]

That’s pretty cool Steve! That’s should be a sticky everywhere! Dose that have a support app? Lol

I have been using this for over 10 years! I thought everybody used it? It's super handy for shaft sleeves too!