MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Bigmac]

I have been using this for over 10 years! I thought everybody used it? It's super handy for shaft sleeves too!

Thank Steve, call me out like that….haha, old dog learns new tricks, editing….old tricks

 

[Lee H]

Don't hurt yourself Al. Here is something to help us all!

https://www.timken.com/engineering-tools/seal-selection-tool/

That is super nice Steve, Thanks for sharing, I have never seen it before.
I usually call my bearing supplier and get what i need but i like this.

 

[Steve]

Thank Steve, call me out like that….haha, old dog learns new tricks, editing….old tricks

Yeah, just bustin' your balls Nathan!

That is super nice Steve, Thanks for sharing, I have never seen it before.
I usually call my bearing supplier and get what i need but i like this.

You guys are all very welcome!

 

[Bigmac]

Yeah, just bustin' your balls Nathan!






You guys are all very welcome!

I feel like a prop in the nutcracker….haha!!!

 

[edju1958]

Yesterday I put the different AF bracket on my PM310.I had the saw laying on it's side for most of the time & had a small puddle of oil on the table.Apparently it's leaking out of the muffler/cylinder.When I started the saw it smoked lik hell had let loose.I had to shut if off for fear of suffocating.Obviously something is leaking on the oil pump.What do I need to replace?

 

[Al Smith]

I'm a persistent cuss regarding seals and so far I've found anything I've been looking for no matter what it goes on .For example maybe 20 years ago at work we had a mill head that drilled the center manufacturing hole for pistons .It used synthetic coolant but the dummys had buna n seals in it which will not hold up in a condition like that They had to send it to Leeds England to get them rebuilt .I got sick and tired of changing the greasy things .I mean WTH I was an electrician not an engineer but I found seals that would work and they never had another problem with them .Common sense which is not so common these days .It's not rocket science for crying out loud .--mumble grumble ---humbug ----

 

[heimannm]

SKF 6119 for the PTO side, double lip. 6120 is a single lip and will also work but they cost the same so why not get the extra lip.

Ed- I am pretty sure the only way for bar oil to get to the crankcase is through the piston on the automatic pump. If the saw/oil pump are relatively new it could be that the check valve (ball and spring) are not seating/sealing properly and that could let oil drain back from the bar pad to the crankcase.

McCulloch did not intend for that to be a serviceable part, but you can grip the steel insert with a pair of pliers and twist/pull the insert out in order to access the ball and spring. I have found a few balls that had corrosion or just polymerized oil on them preventing a good seal.



If you happen to cause a small burr on the insert, chuck it in a drill and smooth it out with a file or emery cloth before you put it back together so the plastic adjusting sleeve is free to move.



Mark

 

[edju1958]

SKF 6119 for the PTO side, double lip. 6120 is a single lip and will also work but they cost the same so why not get the extra lip.

Ed- I am pretty sure the only way for bar oil to get to the crankcase is through the piston on the automatic pump. If the saw/oil pump are relatively new it could be that the check valve (ball and spring) are not seating/sealing properly and that could let oil drain back from the bar pad to the crankcase.

McCulloch did not intend for that to be a serviceable part, but you can grip the steel insert with a pair of pliers and twist/pull the insert out in order to access the ball and spring. I have found a few balls that had corrosion or just polymerized oil on them preventing a good seal.

View attachment 326688

If you happen to cause a small burr on the insert, chuck it in a drill and smooth it out with a file or emery cloth before you put it back together so the plastic adjusting sleeve is free to move.

View attachment 326691

Mark

Mark,those oil pumps look very similar to the 10 series oil pumps,just put together a bit differently.I recently took the ball & tiny spring out on the check valve side on a 10 series pump & ended up losing the tiny spring.I called Bob J.for a new one & he chewed me out for taking it apart.He asked why I even took it apart.I told him because it wasn't working.Him & his freaking Coca Cola,he told me to soak it in Coke.Common sense tells me that by soaking it in a sugary substance will only make it even stickier.If I was to soak it in anything it'd be Seafoam.Anyway,I got the new spring & put it back together.I have no idea if it's working or not.
Perhaps running some Seafoam through the 310 pump would loosen up the sticking check valve?

 

[Maintenance Chief]

SKF 6119 for the PTO side, double lip. 6120 is a single lip and will also work but they cost the same so why not get the extra lip.

Ed- I am pretty sure the only way for bar oil to get to the crankcase is through the piston on the automatic pump. If the saw/oil pump are relatively new it could be that the check valve (ball and spring) are not seating/sealing properly and that could let oil drain back from the bar pad to the crankcase.

McCulloch did not intend for that to be a serviceable part, but you can grip the steel insert with a pair of pliers and twist/pull the insert out in order to access the ball and spring. I have found a few balls that had corrosion or just polymerized oil on them preventing a good seal.

View attachment 326688

If you happen to cause a small burr on the insert, chuck it in a drill and smooth it out with a file or emery cloth before you put it back together so the plastic adjusting sleeve is free to move.

View attachment 326691

Mark

Yup I use the skf 6119 seal .

 

[Al Smith]

More on seals .When I rebuilt the two Partner P-100's I had to find the IPL of a Mac 1000 before I could figure out the replacements .The Swedish IPL from Partner just confused me and I could not cross reference them .Never the less I found them however in doing some more investigation I find the same size in CR rated for higher shaft speed and higher temperature rating and those are what I used .The CR book is full of good info but you have to dig for it .Well like the illusive clutch side seal for the Stihl 042/048 .NLA or so they thought .I found them ,never say die .

 

[edju1958]

Maybe I'm a glutton for punishment,but I bought a Mac Eager Beaver 2.3 on Feebay.Originally the seller was asking $70,then he dropped to $55.He said it ran like a bear the last time he used it around 6-8 yrs.ago,but now it won't start & it'll only run on a prime,& the throttle was hanging up.I messaged him & said the not starting issue could be it needs a new fuel filter,or it may need a carb rebuild.The throttle hanging up may possibly be the throttle cable needs to be replaced which is a giant PITA.I offered him $45 & he accepted.I've got enough of those 300 series saws to last me a lifetime in repairing them,Lol.

 

[undocumented username]

Hey guys! I know this is a long shot but does any one have a pro Mac 850 cylinder or know someone who has one that wants to sell it? I don’t have privileges to post a parts wanted add yet. So I thought I would try here first.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Username sounds legit?

 

[undocumented username]

Jaaa I know it’s stupid…. Haven’t changed it yet.

 

[Bigmac]

Jaaa I know it’s stupid…. Haven’t changed it yet.

Ya and posting more and being part of the action will help, liking posts and making comments. Be patient, and be apart of the community

 

[undocumented username]

I have been more of a lurker, I’ll be more vocal.

 

[Bigmac]

I have been more of a lurker, I’ll be more vocal.

Good deal, don’t forget to quote, and like posts….lol

If people don’t do that, I kinda feel like they are only in it for themselves…I like to make friends, but if you aren’t putting in the time, if you aren’t sharing the highs and lows, your not going to be relatable. Do you even own a Mac? lol just busting…

Edit, pics help

 

[Vinnywv]

Hey guys! I know this is a long shot but does any one have a pro Mac 850 cylinder or know someone who has one that wants to sell it? I don’t have privileges to post a parts wanted add yet. So I thought I would try here first.

Well i dont have a cylinder extra..but if youre willing to ship just the cylinder and piston....i know a guy that can without question fix it for you. Ive not posted this here yet but i have on Another Site....ive been involved in sleeving a 82cc mac cylinder. One is an 850. It runs fine and dandy. If you are interested pm me and we can get you the information and fix your saw. Ill tell the story a bit later today...im at work right now.

 

[Al Smith]

[QUOTE="Vinnywv, post: 1347801, member: 21702". Ive not posted this here yet but i have on Another Site....ive been involved in sleeving a 82cc mac cylinder. One is an 850. It runs fine and dandy. .[/QUOTE] I'd like to see this .I sleeved a Mac 125 ,that's featured on Kevins other forum with the method involved .Fact being although I have several 82 cc cylinders I don't want to part with any .One is an 805 the chrome delaminated which will need a sleeve . The other an 850 which can be cleaned up .

 

[Al Smith]

Now then,sleeve .If you could find something close like from LA sleeve or precision tubing it would simplify things rather than turn one from a chunk of round stock .You could whittle it down to fit .
A reed valve Mac is relatively simple because if you pull the welch plugs you can just cut them in by going in from the originals .A piston port would not be so easy
My theory on that is make a port map which you should be able to cut them close enough then of course finish them .You about need to cut the ports in after the sleeve is pressed because trying to hit the target would be difficult plus you most likely would break the sleeve .Having said all that it's a very long tedious operation that might span weeks before it's done .