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I bought this 2-10 last month from a seller on Feebay who has tried to pull shenanigans with me in the past.Everyone thinks he's an "honest guy",but I beg to differ.There wasn't much to the saw to begin with,missing the entire right side - no clutch,starter,muffler,etc.The front handle had been "spliced" (I sure as hell would never use it).The piston &cyl.look decent,no scoring.I tore the saw apart yesterday & cleaned it somewhat.I went to put it away & just happened to notice that the keyway for the clutch is pretty well buggered.I've been told that a Woodruff key isn't necessary as long as the clutch is torqued appropriately.I tried to get a pic that'd show the imperfection on the crankshaft,but it doesn't really show up that well.The imperfection is on the right side.There should be a "wall" where the key rests against,that wall is pretty much gone.Other than replacing the crankshaft I don't think this engine is any good anymore.

The other thing I'm having problems with is the automatic oil pump.The piston was stuck & I had a helluva time getting it freed up.I finally got it out of the pump body & had to lightly sand with croakus cloth on the outer edge of the piston & on the inside edge of the pump body.It works freely now,but every now & then it'll get stuck in the down position & it still doesn't pump oil.I put a couple drops of oil on the intake side of the pump & worked the piston.Normally that oil will be pumped to the exit side of the pump.I took the bottom screw out of the pump body & found a small spring attached to the cover.According to an IPL there should be a small check valve ball in there,but nothing came out.I plan on running the pump through my ultrasonic cleaner to see if it'll free up the check valve.View attachment 323829

Just put the key in it with a dab of lock tight on it and let her rip! It'll be fine Ed .
As Mark said dont put a rattle gun on it though, hand tightened only those dog gone things shatter if you start hammering them.
I've gotten saws that have run that way for years.
 

edju1958

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I'm trying to part together a muffler for a 2-10 that'll be up & coming on my list.I have the body/duct,part # 83105.I need the cap,part # 62380,baffle - part # 62379B,& the screws that hold the cover on,part #102341,lockplate - part # 69890,& small shoulder bolt - part # 110506.
I got off the phone with Bob J.& almost had a heart attack when he told me the baffle alone was $52! To hell with the baffle,I can make one for a lot less than $52
 

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I'm trying to part together a muffler for a 2-10 that'll be up & coming on my list.I have the body/duct,part # 83105.I need the cap,part # 62380,baffle - part # 62379B,& the screws that hold the cover on,part #102341,lockplate - part # 69890,& small shoulder bolt - part # 110506.
I got off the phone with Bob J.& almost had a heart attack when he told me the baffle alone was $52! To hell with the baffle,I can make one for a lot less than $52

Does the reed cover off a 700 fit?
 

Al Smith

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A reed cover might fit but most of them are rusted shut .I for one never figured out why they thought it was a good idea to use them .Maybe they were supposed to act like a so called "power valve " they used on say a KTM hot rod motorcycle but those rust up too .As far as that they run great if in tune with the timing advanced a tad bit but the little rascals are loud enough to wake the dead and cause dogs to howl .Might sound hard to believe but as old as they they can be made to run as fast as a modern saw .It comes at a cost though ,harder to start ,vibrate so much they make your hands go numb in about 5 minutes and if you don't wear ear muffs ruin your ear drums .
 

Al Smith

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Out of curiosity I just looked at several IPL's of this model and typical of McCulloch they list not only different muffler covers but also different carbs .One was indeed a reed cover .
 

edju1958

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I looked at the cover for the 7-10 & seriously doubt it'll fit the 2-10 duct/body.I don't have much use for the reed mufflers either,more of a PITA than anything else.If I need to make my own cover & baffle,then I will.I'm not paying $71 for a muffler assembly,or $52 for a baffle.Those are the prices Bob J.gave me.Sometimes I think he looks up the part # & then gives me the wrong price.Either that,or one day he gives me a good price,then 2 days later he gives me another much higher price.
 

heimannm

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Ed - I have a generous supply of the 62379 baffle, yours for the postage. My list tell me I have a used 62380 but I will need to look to confirm. I know I saw a few 67922 lock plates, if I have a chance I'll hold one up to an 83105 and see if it fits. Keep reminding me and I start another package for you.

Mark
 

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I was hoping you'd come through Mark! I'll have to go out to the garage & take stock of exactly what I need & send you a PM.
 

Al Smith

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When it comes to McCulloch unless you have the part in hand you'll never know if it will fit . I have an early model 850 complete engine under the shrouding of an 805 with an early 850 muffler which performance wise is a much better choice than the 805 muffler . However saying that to be able to do it you need a big pile of parts on hand . In my case if you do it long enough you'll find the parts often when you least expect it and more often than not for free .Just put that thing in a box ,with the parts and try to remember where it's at until then .
 

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Yup. That's what I do. They run much better without them. They just don't sound as cool without the reed.
Ive never had one with the reed intact. They are always broken, with exception of the SP-40.
That one got taken off anyway, and replaced with the Oval aluminum case muffler. Yes, I know its louder, thats what earmuffs are for.:)
 

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Need some help from folks who have worked on the two-man saws. I'm trying to take the oil pump assembly out of a model 99 and I got it backed out to a point where it just turns and doesn't back out any further. Same thing with tightening unless I really press on it. Is there a step I'm missing here? Seems like there's an obstruction or boogered threads. Still if that's the case I'm not sure how to get the darn things out.
42e836c6891bcc521e44e0f4d33b910d.jpg


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Maintenance Chief

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Need some help from folks who have worked on the two-man saws. I'm trying to take the oil pump assembly out of a model 99 and I got it backed out to a point where it just turns and doesn't back out any further. Same thing with tightening unless I really press on it. Is there a step I'm missing here? Seems like there's an obstruction or boogered threads. Still if that's the case I'm not sure how to get the darn things out.
42e836c6891bcc521e44e0f4d33b910d.jpg


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Probably old oil gum/gunk around the shaft ,try flushing the tank with whatever hot degreaser while working it.
 

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Probably old oil gum/gunk around the shaft ,try flushing the tank with whatever hot degreaser while working it.
+1 on that. Judging from Marks IPL, there isnt anything else there that would prevent it from coming out. Ive had varnish and sediment buildup hold on like steel before. Maybe just screw it back in a few turns and let it soak with some kerosene or another decent mild solvent. Mineral spirits would also help maybe, and would loosen some of the gunk thats apparently in the tank.
 

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+1 on that. Judging from Marks IPL, there isnt anything else there that would prevent it from coming out. Ive had varnish and sediment buildup hold on like steel before. Maybe just screw it back in a few turns and let it soak with some kerosene or another decent mild solvent. Mineral spirits would also help maybe, and would loosen some of the gunk thats apparently in the tank.
I had taken a look at the ipl and I came to the same conclusion. I'm letting it soak overnight and will try and ease it out tomorrow. Could be some corrosion in there. The entire tank had heavy corrosion and mag rot. Took some serious blasting to get the bulk of it.

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edju1958

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Anybody know anything about the Silver Eagle series saws,model 3420 (60013409) in particular? I couldn't find any info on this saw anywhere.It looks very similar to the Timberbear & 610.
 
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