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MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

Al Smith

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Has anyone ever figured out how to put a chain brake handle back on a mcculloch 600 series chainsaw without tearing up the paint on the cover?
I've got three 610's two with brakes. One I left on a stump in Knox county Ohio about 40 years ago .Pot licker fell apart on me and I had work to do and forgot all about it .
 

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I'm getting ready to make another diaphragm for a model 73 and have a question for you folks that have made your own diaphragms. Am I better off riveting the lever plate on to the diaphragm material or is gluing it an option? If I can use a good adhesive/sealant to apply the plate to the new material I'm all for that. I'm just skeptical of any sealants/adhesives being real effective.
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Al Smith

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I've never done that however one adhesive that might work is Loctite 401 .This is what they use to glue buna-n o rings .I've used it to repair torn intake boots and so far they haven't failed .Weather it would hold metal to buna n I have no idea .
Another idea is Loctite 501 RTV I think if I have the number correct .This stuff is used by every automotive builder in the world from Ford to Rolls Royce in place of gaskets .I know it holds up in oil but not exactly how well in gasoline . What I do know in an automotive use they had to use jacking bolts if they ever wanted to remove an oil pan or front cover to repair the engine .It's about like it's welded on .I've got a couple of tubes some place but it's cold as a well drillers behind to try and find them at the moment .
 

Al Smith

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Now then perhaps a rivet . In my observation they appear to be closed on one side and are hollow on the other ,Like a small piece of tubing closed off .You might be able to find them via McMaster -Carr because they have just about any type of fastener ever made .That would be a very tedious job .I suppose to set the rivet perhaps a center punch would work using a tiny little hammer .Certainly not a 4 pound ball peen .
 

Al Smith

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I just looked it up and McMaster -Carr does have them .I think you want a hollow body just not a hollow ended .They have the charts showing the length, diameter , angle of headed end which usually is 150 degrees plus the drill size .they come in brass as well as plated steel material . Packages of 50 or 100 between 12 and 15 bucks .
 

Al Smith

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Okay now a story .I've seen exactly one model 73 McCulloch in my life time .My uncle Chuck owned it ,36" bar 1/2" chipper .That pot licker was heavy slow and powerful and loud when I was 16 years .At around 40 the last time I ran it it didn't get any lighter or faster but still was powerful and loud .Unc passed away and whatever became of it I don't know .
 

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Now then perhaps a rivet . In my observation they appear to be closed on one side and are hollow on the other ,Like a small piece of tubing closed off .You might be able to find them via McMaster -Carr because they have just about any type of fastener ever made .That would be a very tedious job .I suppose to set the rivet perhaps a center punch would work using a tiny little hammer .Certainly not a 4 pound ball peen .
Story time with Uncle Al? I was sitting on the edge of my chair hehe(just being a smartass). On a serious note though the heavy part is an understatement, the thing is a real boat anchor. The one I have has a 32" bar with 1/2" chipper chain. With the rivets..... thats what I did with the diaphragm I made for the model 99. I have some 1/8" semi-tubular rivets that should work providing I cut out a back plate to sandwich the diaphragm material. I initially thought that would be better since after I peen the rivets in then its done with and that's that. However I'm worried about adding unnecessary weight to the diaphragm and impeding it's functionality. I know Bryan Gray did it but I don't know how it panned out for him. This is where I thought adhering the lever plate to the material like the original diaphragm would be advantageous.
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Al Smith

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The big question is where did you find Buna -N cloth thin enough to make the diaphragm ? Reason I asked is I have an antique Sears gear drive with a Power Products 95 cc engine with a Lauson carb .It needs some attention like a rebuild of that POS carb which uses duck bill checks rather than flappers on the pump section .I managed to blow one of those checks into orbit in my garage never to be found again .It's also a boat anchor .On those old clunkers the challenge is making them run to begin with certainly not to use them . I've got saws that could chunk up more in one hour than they could in two days .Besides that at my age I doubt I could run one for two days in a row ,maybe 15 minutes .
 

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Finding the right material was a pain. Actually I couldn't find anything here in the states. I had to order this stuff from the UK. I'll see if I can dig out the info from the order and the company I got it from. I've got plenty of material left. If you want to send me the old diaphragm I can make a new one for ya

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Al Smith

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Actually I've got a few really large diaphragms that could be cut down .I think they are either a model HR Tilley or what ever that model Harley Sportsters used .Thanks for the offer though .
 

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heimannm

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American Rubber Products sells nitrile cover nylon (the stuff the diaphragms are made of) by the yard. If anyone would like to try their hand at fashioning their own diaphrams let me know and I can sell you an appropriate sized piece of the material.

I used a LocTite product to secure the plate to the diaphragm but I don't remember the numbers on the product right now, I do recall that it did contain some butyl in the mix. I also remember that the specifications say it retains 70% of its strength after 1,000 hours immersed in gasoline. I have one on my 77 and it runs just as well as it did with the OEM diaphragm.

Mark
 

Al Smith

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It's very seldom you can't find a diaphragm that might fit .However some times although rare you run across a bastard variety that hasn't been made in over 50 years .Thanks for the info .So far I've dealt with things like over 70 year old Caterpillars for example that are older than me and I'll be 74 the end of this month .I've always been able to make them go including rebuilding fuel injectors that haven't been made in over 30 years .That's the neat thing about restoration not everybody has the patience to do it which might be measured in years .
 

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Thanks Mark. Does Loctite 380 ring a bell? It's a black low viscosity adhesive, no butyl though. Its data sheet states it retains 70% initial strength after 1,000 hours of exposure to gas. The 401 that Al mentioned looks like it would also do the trick.

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Mark have you used a thinner material when cutting out carb gaskets? I ask because all I'm using is your average fel-pro karropak gasketing. Seems good enough for the job but I wonder if a thinner material may be a better option in some cases.

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Al Smith

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I can't speak for Mark but just about any paper will work for a gasket .I've used printer paper for carb gaskets up to 1/4" cork for an oil pan gasket for a D4 Cat the pan weighed over 200 pounds. Paper would have worked if I found anything that thick .
 

Al Smith

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I mistyped that loctite RTV number .it's 5900 not 510 .It's kind of costly but in my case I didn't have to buy it ,perks of the job .:) I think also there is a 5910 on the market .You'll just have to research it because after staring at computer screen for hours my eyes cross . Problem is with this stuff is once you break into a tube or cylinder you can't hardly stop it from setting up .At work this stuff came from a barrel full that weighed about 500 pounds transfered from drum to the hanging application stations .If they sat unused , for example a week end if they did not use the special tips that prevented it to set up they had one hell of a time clearing it out come Monday morning .The good thing is these engines were not like your grand fathers model A Ford .These did not leak oil .
 
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heimannm

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Come on Steve, tell them about the stuff you're really excited about...

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And getting back to the McCulloch theme, Steve gave me some treasures this week including the genuine AC plugs for the 54 and 70+ cc 10 Series saws.

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I'll share a bit more when I get the truck unloaded.

I also saw this today but I was not able to bring it home.

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A shiny new nickel for the 1st one to correctly identify the model.

Mark
 
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