MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Dream]

Got a minute to check out the McBrick. Promac 610.
Coil actually was bad. It had one of the "small coils" on it. Newer style. I had an older one from a PM650. Runs fine now. Someone butchered the oil tank trying to remove broken screws. Drill bit walked off and went right through the oil tank. I'll attempt to fix it when I have a little more time.

 

[heimannm]

I will be interested to see how you go about making that repair.

Mark

 

[Dream]

I will be interested to see how you go about making that repair.

Mark

I'll try some Lab Metal or the like to build it up after I get the rest of the broken screw out, then redrill/tap.
Will a PM650 oil tank fit?
Think I have a parts saw or two. That might be the easier fix, since I'll probably need to pull the tank to fix the leak that ive heard they have at the impulse port.

 

[Al Smith]

Oil tank part # 218583 .605,610, 650 and Eager Beaver 3.7

 

[Woodslasher]

I went to pressure/vacuum test my SP60 before I tore it down to install a new set of rings and I somehow stripped out a muffler bolt hole (the one with the bolt, not the screw). Should I order a helicoil kit or tap it out to a different size?

 

[fossil]

I went to pressure/vacuum test my SP60 before I tore it down to install a new set of rings and I somehow stripped out a muffler bolt hole (the one with the bolt, not the screw). Should I order a helicoil kit or tap it out to a different size?
View attachment 300654 View attachment 300655

You could do either but I use some aluminum brazing rod and fill the hole and drill and tap to the original size.

The filler rod material is quite hard.

 

[Woodslasher]

You could do either but I use some aluminum brazing rod and fill the hole and drill and tap to the original size.

The filler rod material is quite hard.

Unfortunately I can't weld or braze, but I have a neighbor who can so I'll talk to him about doing that soon.

 

[Lee H]

I have had great luck with helicoils. They are stronger when installed correctly.

 

[heimannm]

I also like the Heli-Coil repair. On the larger saws, McCulloch installed some steel threaded inserts for the mufflers from the factory.

Mark

 

[Maintenance Chief]

Later Remington saws used heli coils all over the place.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

So have aircraft for nearly 70 years. An Airbus A380 has about 12,000 of em.

I went to pressure/vacuum test my SP60...

Good man on the testing. And that thread was just telling you it needed repaired. Easy fix with a helicoil as has already been advised.

And for anyone contemplating the purchase of a thread insert kit, you can't beat this deal anywhere...., even if you only ever use the smaller sizes. There is also a coarse thread version. While I doubt the inserts are stainless, they have still worked fine for me.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3535361629...TKkD0PMSVWhAIPdGnUh3G6v8TOJ8tZ6saAjZxEALw_wcB

Unfortunately it only comes as a metric set. I bite the bullet and buy individual EZ-LOC kits by EZ-Coil for SAE applications. I've not been disappointed by either.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Can't seem to get the link to embed correctly. If you Google 'helicoil repair kit', it's everywhere -- with Amazon having a very good price. I discovered there is indeed a SAE version now as well.

 

[heimannm]

This is a copy of a post from Another Site, just thought it might be helpful here as well.

There were two different bearing and seal options used on the flywheel side of the 10 Series saws. Most have the hard to find 63429 bearing on the flywheel side with the 61618 seal that presses into the wider outer race of the bearing. Others use the same bearing and seal combination as the 600 Series saws with the 67905 bearing and 67906 seal, the bearing is narrower and the seal matches the O.D. of the bearing and presses in side by side. The two are completely interchangeable as a combination. Most 10-10 models use the 67905/67906 combination as well as other random saws along the way.

The PTO side all use the same bearing and seal, 104357 needle bearing and 110260 seal. The 60 cc and larger saws have a sleeve or insert that the bearing and seal press in to and are positioned in the crankcase with either a dowel pin (later models) or a snap ring (earlier models). On the 54 and 57 cc models the bearing and seal press directly into the bore of the crankcase.



Mark

 

[mirage]

Can anyone help me with the intake gaskets orientation on a Mac 250 flat back carb. I ordered the rebuild kit from Bobs Mower and I came with 2 intake gaskets. One is a 65583 gasket and it has the tab on it. The other one is a 65630 no tab and the hole for the prime pump does not line up.. I am confused. The gaskets I took off both have the tab on them like the 65583. Thank you for any help.

 

[heimannm]

With the flat back carburetor you need two identical gaskets, tabs or not doesn't matter, but the impulse holes must line up with the carburetor and the impulse port on the manifold flange. Normally that saw would use a thin stamped steel "spacer" that is really designed to keep the gaskets properly aligned with the carburetor and the manifold. The hole location in the spacer lines up with the port on the flange and the port on the carburetor.

Mark

 

[RamirezL]

Hello, does anyone have a carburetor that belongs to a Mcculloch titan 57?
Model # HDA 77B.
THANKS

 

[mirage]

With the flat back carburetor you need two identical gaskets, tabs or not doesn't matter, but the impulse holes must line up with the carburetor and the impulse port on the manifold flange. Normally that saw would use a thin stamped steel "spacer" that is really designed to keep the gaskets properly aligned with the carburetor and the manifold. The hole location in the spacer lines up with the port on the flange and the port on the carburetor.

Mark

Thank you Mark . It did not make any sense to me

 

[Dream]

Was gifted a Timber Bear, along with some other stuff.
Was going to use it for parts to fix the 610 I'm working on, but once I looked a little closer, it seems to ne a fairly low hour saw. Needs fuel line and filter for starters. Probably carb work.
Fires. Has TONS of compression. Havent put the guage on it yet. Hangs by the cord and doesnt budge.
Not even that dirty inside, and there was thread locker still on the cover bolts.
May just fix and flip.
Really dont need one.

 

[Dream]

It runs.
New fuel line. New duckbill for the tank vent.
May need to check the oiler pump.

 

[Dream]

Got a chain brake flag for the McBrick today.
Also found a 1010S in the pile.
It hangs by the rope and doesnt budge.
Got spark.
Fuel line hard as a rock. I'm assuming carb is plugged. Tank has a nice thick layer of hard crusty varnish.
How do you fellas get that cleaned out? Its not soft anymore. Been in there awhile.