MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Woodslasher]

Gotta wonder why the guy took off the bottom brace with a full wrap handle and junked it just to turn around and put a half wrap back on it. Same bottom brace as a PM800 and others, btw. The additional plate is optional.

And yes..., an Eager Beaver is a terrible thing to waste. I'd be finding out where that dump is.

And anyone else wonder what's wrong with that piston pic? I wouldn't be surprised if/when that saw gets torn down there will be gobs of excessive sealant in the case with the cylinder having zero aluminum transfer, but a ton of smeared and baked streaks of sealant everywhere. Mine was like that, but not nearly as bad. I was actually able to salvage the piston in mine. I've seen other pics that look eerily similar and suspect a major production screw-up with the sealant on some of these saws. Have a thread on it somewhere, maybe over on AS..., or maybe covered it in this thread a few years ago. I'll look for it in case anyone may be interested.

The saw was disassembled by the original owner, the p.o. just didn't realize the wrap and metal bit belonged to the saw. I found the half wrap in the pile of parts and the recoil on the SP60 is off an 8200, so I suspect he had a second 8200 that had the half wrap. I asked him where the dump was, but it was thrown over the edge where a loader comes through every 2 minutes, so it's long gone. If it was in the scrap metal bin, I wouldn't be sitting here typing this, I'd be 3 feet deep in scrap iron right now.

 

[Sagebrush33]

I asked him where the dump was, but it was thrown over the edge where a loader comes through every 2 minutes, so it's long gone. If it was in the scrap metal bin, I wouldn't be sitting here typing this, I'd be 3 feet deep in scrap iron right now.

I'd be lookin over that edge anyway.
Ya never know.....

 

[Woodslasher]

I'd be lookin over that edge anyway.
Ya never know.....

After a week and a half, I'm not holding my breath....

 

[Sagebrush33]

After a week and a half, I'm not holding my breath....

Kickin the can down the path as I walk away.

 

[Samuel..]

I'm wondering if anyone is interested in original ipl and owners Manuel's for a few old macs. "Model 200/380, pro mac 1000, Model 450, Model 1-53, model 1-51, pro mac 10-10/555/570/700/850

Never really post much but always on here but love old macs have a few myself. Can post pictures of them if you want.

 

[Dream]

I was picking up a few parts from a fellow saw guy and he mentioned he had some "Mac stuff" for me. $75 later I came home with all this and a few off-brand parts I needed. The PM8200 looks like it has maybe 1 tank run through it, unless you guys recommend otherwise it'll probably hit the trading post. It might be missing a few bits, but I'm not sure yet. The SP60 needs a clutch cover and a decomp, and the 2-10? is purely parts. I need to check p/c condition on the SP60 and 2-10, but I'm still pretty excited.
View attachment 298548 View attachment 298549 View attachment 298550 View attachment 298551 View attachment 298552

I'm guessing theres no clutch cover for the RHS?
Still need a couple of parts.

 

[Woodslasher]

I'm guessing theres no clutch cover for the RHS?
Still need a couple of parts.

Correct, it is donating its tank and SDC carb to my 5-10.

 

[heimannm]

You've abandoned the Mac 10 carburetor already? Did you try a pressure test to verify that the needle and seat are holding? Metering lever should sit level with the body of the carburetor. I have had success a few time lapping the needle and seat using toothpaste as the lapping compound.



Mark

 

[Woodslasher]

You've abandoned the Mac 10 carburetor already? Did you try a pressure test to verify that the needle and seat are holding? Metering lever should sit level with the body of the carburetor. I have had success a few time lapping the needle and seat using toothpaste as the lapping compound.

View attachment 298775

Mark

I was hoping to run a velocity stack on it, and I appreciate being able to tune it myself, so for that saw I am abandoning it, yes. I may make the 1-10 a runner if it doesn't need too much, in which case I'll use the carb on that.

 

[Woodslasher]

Well, the needle and seat were not holding, I'm gonna fiddle with that and see if I can't get it squared away. In other news, I found that the SP60 has a thin ring piston and has a tiny bit of carbon scuffing on the piston, so I'll tear it down and clean out the combustion chamber. It also has the little bar stud clips that make it a D196 mount, so I'll be able to run my n.o.s. 24 inch Oregon bar on it! Also, I mocked up what I want my 5-10 to look like when I'm done with the ring job (except I'll have re-installed the lower handle brace).

 

[Sagebrush33]

Unlike the old school Homelites and Pioneers, these Macs draw me in. It was a neighbors Mac in the late '70s, early early '80s that I experienced first hand as a young lad. I did not get to cut with it but was allowed to hold it for a spell or two while it was idling.
I haven't a clue on the model. I just remember the big yella powa saw. I had to be of about 7 or 8 yrs of age.

Some childhood memories never fade. This is one.

 

[northwest saws]

It's been super busy over here but I finally got around to doing a little saw stuff. Picked up a bar adapter so I could put a good 28" oregon bar on the sp81. Thanks for the suggestion maintenance supervisor! I made a quick alteration to the bar so the oil would feed in properly and the tensioner would fit. I'm curious as to how you fellas do it? I thought about taking a thin cutting wheel into the groove of the rail just above where the oil would normally feed in. So mimicing the function of thr original mcculloch bar. I ended up modifying it to mimic the function of some of the earlier Mac bars though. Should have looked closer because the back plate isn't quite flush with the bar, so I may lose a little oil here and there. It works though and the sp81 is rippin'. An overall good condition saw, everything works great. The Jethro spike adds a touch of class as well! Need to put a proper fuel line and grommet in there though, the 036 line I put in is a little too long and the fuel filter needs a weight on it.

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[heimannm]

I have used a thin cut off wheel to cut the bar groove deep enough to open into the elongated hole in the bar, that is the way the oil passes on the typical 10 Series bars. I have also drilled a couple of small holes through the bottom of the bar groove into the adjuster hole but I like the cut off wheel approach better.

Mark

 

[northwest saws]

Excellent! I'll have to order some more cutoff discs. I'm going to order some grommets as well but I am curious as to what size of grommet you have been using for the fuel line fix. I have to get some bulk fuel line as well but I'll be able to get that on Thursday.

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[Sagebrush33]

You fellas have some nice yellas here.
I'm going to have to keep an open for some local Macs.
I never was a fan of road side garage sails.....I'm going to start hittin the brakes when I see a bunch of old stuff.
I'll pass by the sails with clothes, dishes, and the like.

 

[Woodslasher]

You fellas have some nice yellas here.
I'm going to have to keep an open for some local Macs.
I never was a fan of road side garage sails.....I'm going to start hittin the brakes when I see a bunch of old stuff.
I'll pass by the sails with clothes, dishes, and the like.

Do what I do, befriend a local saw guy who has tons of connections and doesn't like Macs. All but two of my keepers came from him.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

A SAW GUY THAT DOESN'T LIKE MCCULLOCH! I didn't know they existed?
Anyway networking is gonna be your best bet and letting people know that you like old saws.

Here's the inside of a 55 I just picked up, the don't all start out purty.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

She's a runner now. This saws biggest problems were just mismaintenance the allen screw came out of the tank in the oiler ,3 screws were lose holding the tank/handle down , muffler bolts lose or missing.
The hole that intersects the bar plate to the oil passage was corroded shut and I had to use a hand drill with a mico bit to open it up , luckily it's self flushing with a few pumps of the manual oiler.
The lead coil wire had some "fixes" ,so I replaced it with a cleaned points coil , still running the points.
All in all it is a pretty common list of things you might encounter, fuel line and carburetor were relatively nice.

 

[northwest saws]

She's a runner now. This saws biggest problems were just mismaintenance the allen screw came out of the tank in the oiler ,3 screws were lose holding the tank/handle down , muffler bolts lose or missing.
The hole that intersects the bar plate to the oil passage was corroded shut and I had to use a hand drill with a mico bit to open it up , luckily it's self flushing with a few pumps of the manual oiler.
The lead coil wire had some "fixes" ,so I replaced it with a cleaned points coil , still running the points.
All in all it is a pretty common list of things you might encounter, fuel line and carburetor were relatively nice.View attachment 299040 View attachment 299041 View attachment 299042

Really like the color pattern there with the black tank and yellow filter cover!

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[Al Smith]

On those bar modifications I've used two thin die grinder cut off wheels mounted back to back .The little chainsaw grinding bits used on a Dremel type die grinder are handy to elongate the mounting/oil hole .Bar steel is pretty hard stuff .The only way I've found to actually drill a hole is with a solid carbide drill bit of which I have plenty .
I've said before within reason you can nearly adapt any bar to any saw .My avatar saw, a 2100S Homelite has a Stihl 066 mount 36" which it wears most times .The tail is a little too narrow with an 8 tooth .404 rim sprocket but so far hasn't caused me any problems .