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Maintenance Chief

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Got a chain brake flag for the McBrick today.
Also found a 1010S in the pile.:)
It hangs by the rope and doesnt budge.
Got spark.
Fuel line hard as a rock. I'm assuming carb is plugged. Tank has a nice thick layer of hard crusty varnish.
How do you fellas get that cleaned out? Its not soft anymore. Been in there awhile.
View attachment 301709
For a 10-10S I'd put the effort in and split the tank to degrease with just about any engine degreaser ( I prefer Mean Green).
Get yourself the rubber tank gasket and save yourself a headache. Walbro sdc kit and an oem 034 stihl fuel line with felt filter.
Those saws are apex predators in their cc range and worth the extra time and effort.
 

Dream

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For a 10-10S I'd put the effort in and split the tank to degrease with just about any engine degreaser ( I prefer Mean Green).
Get yourself the rubber tank gasket and save yourself a headache. Walbro sdc kit and an oem 034 stihl fuel line with felt filter.
Those saws are apex predators in their cc range and worth the extra time and effort.
10/4 on the rubber tank gasket.
Was thinking about trying one of the fuel line kits that Mark H recommends. Has the bulkhead fitting that glues in, and then uses standard fuel lines on both sides with 2 different size barbs.
Good to know that stuff comes off fairly easy. I was thinking of taking the tank top off and filling half way with parts cleaner fluid. Soaking the top in washer fluid for a day or so.
 

Dream

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For a 10-10S I'd put the effort in and split the tank to degrease with just about any engine degreaser ( I prefer Mean Green).
Get yourself the rubber tank gasket and save yourself a headache. Walbro sdc kit and an oem 034 stihl fuel line with felt filter.
Those saws are apex predators in their cc range and worth the extra time and effort.
Oh yeah, ive always been impressed with the torque and speed of a super vs the 54 cc 1010 models.
1010S was the first Mac I ever ran.
My grandfather bought it new.
Dad has a 1010S SE.
He used to have another one, but an Elm twisted off the stump...
Ive got the short block and other parts I could save.
 

Dream

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Gentlemen, can someone tell me what the ring end gap should be for a 1010S?
Double thin rings.
 

Al Smith

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On ring gap with the exception of the 125c I made a cast iron cylinder for I've never changed the rings on any McCulloch I've owned .Maybe I'm lucky but the just don't wear out .Neither do the main bearings and seldom the seals .
 

heimannm

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The only electronic IPL's I have call for 92517 which is a thick ring intended for a piston without locating pins. See if you can find the serial number tag, I have some paper copies of additional IPL's that might identify another piston ring option.

Check under the flywheel, is the seal pressed directly in the bore, or is it pressed into a wider outer race of the bearing? Either way I have seals available if you need.

Mark
 

Al Smith

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I've got the data on micro fiche . I also think Mc Bob had it on his CD too .If the data I have is correct the 10-10 S is # 216061 or alternately 69993 .I would assume because the 10--10 S is late in production the thin rings would be tool steel like the 125C .
Rambling on when I salvaged the 125C with an iron cylinder liner I had three sets of piston rings blanked out from tool steel .To finish the job would have required about three more steps in the process .I never finished the job because as luck would have it Mike Acres had several sets in inventory . BTW you can "Google " how to make piston rings if you have the means plus the patience of how to do it .Very few however would delve into it .
 

Al Smith

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Now the seals .If you can read the numbers on the old seals you can cross them with CR seals .If you can't cross them I have the charts from Bearings Inc and usually I can . Off topic but believe it or not I found the illusive never to be found pto side seal for the Stihl 048 and 042 and for a reasonable price .It wasn't all that difficult to do .Now comes the problem where did I hid the data I found ? -------Edited after thought .Last summer during the lock down I completely rebuilt a pair of Partner p-100 /Mac sp 1000 saws. I found the seals on flea bay for a very reasonable price using CR numbers .
 

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The only electronic IPL's I have call for 92517 which is a thick ring intended for a piston without locating pins. See if you can find the serial number tag, I have some paper copies of additional IPL's that might identify another piston ring option.

Check under the flywheel, is the seal pressed directly in the bore, or is it pressed into a wider outer race of the bearing? Either way I have seals available if you need.

Mark
Flywheel side is pressed directly into bore.
Looks like a later production saw. Dont have it in front of me, but looks like model# is 600111B
Ser# ?11-628965. Throttle linkage is obscuring tag.
 

Dream

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I've got the data on micro fiche . I also think Mc Bob had it on his CD too .If the data I have is correct the 10-10 S is # 216061 or alternately 69993 .I would assume because the 10--10 S is late in production the thin rings would be tool steel like the 125C .
Rambling on when I salvaged the 125C with an iron cylinder liner I had three sets of piston rings blanked out from tool steel .To finish the job would have required about three more steps in the process .I never finished the job because as luck would have it Mike Acres had several sets in inventory . BTW you can "Google " how to make piston rings if you have the means plus the patience of how to do it .Very few however would delve into it .
Thanks Al. Should be tool steel rings, as its chrome plated bore.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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Off topic but believe it or not I found the illusive never to be found pto side seal for the Stihl 048 and 042 and for a reasonable price

Remaining slightly off-topic for a moment..., part number, source, and price of those 048 seals, please? I have three of those saws needing them. They occasionally pop up on the bay, but not cheap.

Back to Mac ring end gap -- the '82 reference guide for piston/cylinder/ring specs amended what I posted above (from a '73 publication) to include rings intended for pistons with locating pins. It was evidently published early enough in '82 to not yet include 10-10S specs. That said, my latest electronic 10-10S IPL is dated Sept. '87 and still only references the 92517's.

Untitled.jpg
Also of possible interest to those having wrist pin issues when using aftermarket pistons..., the following may or may not be of consequence in some of the reported failures. Again from the '82 publication which is too large to attach or I would have. While generally not applicable to 10 series saws, the clearance/tolerance factors may be worth considering nonetheless.

Untitled2.jpg
 
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67L36Driver

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PM 1000 ?

Which way to turn the oil pump screw to decrease output?


Because:

I have a Partner P70 (same pump) and it oils like the Exxon Valdez.

[emoji2960]
 

mirage

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I got a nice and clean Mac 250 with a flat back carb on it. I have rebuild the carb and installed new o-ring in primer. I can not get it to start cold. Not sure how many pumps it takes to prime it. Saw runs runs great once it is started and will restart with one pull. Any suggestions besides replacing it with a round back with a choke?
 

heimannm

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Let's see a photo of the flywheel side with the flywheel off just to confirm, the seal pressed into the bearing might look like it is pressed into a sleeve in the bore.

Mark
 
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