The Husky 42/42 special/242/246 thread

[wcorey]

I've mentioned this somewhere before but didn't really generate any discussion about it...

Typical open port transfers are more or less a slot that feeds in a straight line right up from the crank case, so a slab sided piston is all that's required for efficient flow and windows are not only unnecessary but may even cause unwanted turbulence.
Where a typical closed port feeds from the side primarily through the piston windows and it would seem that a slab piston would inevitably impede flow.

That 42sp cylinder is open port and they seem to run fine with the factory slab sided piston but unlike most op transfers it's side fed like a closed port and would seem to me to be much more efficient running a 242 type windowed piston.

 

[trooney]

I can get a windowed piston and see how she does. Never seen a port like the one shes got

 

[Tor R]

I hope Tor is around still, but I hope someone can answer my question. I bought the 42 Special from above post knowing that the piston was bad and thinking that somebody made a piston for it. My ignorance! The saw is in pretty good shape so I'd like to keep it going. After readin 23 pages of this thread, I still have that question. What piston will fit in this thing? The piston itself was 35mm in height. The jug said Gilardoni 6, not 241A. Its a 1993 Special. Closed window or open? Its got a closed on it now. Ebay has a 242 Meteor piston that is closed but will it require some work to get it right? Base gasket delete or machining the base? All help would be appreciated.

With the meteor piston which is very similar, you have to drop the cylinder. Meteor found out that they were going to make something unique, we probably haven't found out yet what they made the piston for.

241A has slightly shorter skirts compared to the year model you have, so you get a better IN timing out of the box.

246 has quad open ports and windowed piston and it works, so I would buy a 242 AM piston and give it a try, at least that's what gives you less work as I see it.
I've never tried it myself though.

 

[Tor R]

Magnus has a thread with cylinder numbers / there was also a Gilardoni 7 & 241C

Yep, he has, but there is very little information about which piston and kit versions existed, and even less about the timings.

At 42 I know of three versions, the old one from the start, then when Hva threw away the Gilardoni pistons and used KS, and finally 241A. Do not overlook the fact that there may be one or two versions around 93-94 in the transition to 214A.

On the 242, there were almost annual changes.
Actually one of the reasons why I like these series, the IPLs give very little information about which changes were made along the way.

 

[trooney]

With the meteor piston which is very similar, you have to drop the cylinder. Meteor found out that they were going to make something unique, we probably haven't found out yet what they made the piston for.

241A has slightly shorter skirts compared to the year model you have, so you get a better IN timing out of the box.

246 has quad open ports and windowed piston and it works, so I would buy a 242 AM piston and give it a try, at least that's what gives you less work as I see it.
I've never tried it myself though.

How you doin Tor, Its been a while since we talked. Hope you're doing alright.

 

[Tor R]

How you doin Tor, Its been a while since we talked. Hope you're doing alright.

I'm doing fine mate, but not many chainsaws these days.
That said, I took the house wood with a 242 this year, as usual.
Hope it goes well with you too.

 

[trooney]

The only AM piston I've seen is from the Little Red Barn. The only other piston I got from them was terrible. I guess I could give it another shot.

 

[trooney]

The only AM piston I've seen is from the Little Red Barn. The only other piston I got from them was terrible. I guess I could give it another shot.

I'm doing well my friend. Just trying to catch up on all the wood I've got to cut and stack....

 

[Tor R]

The only AM piston I've seen is from the Little Red Barn. The only other piston I got from them was terrible. I guess I could give it another shot.

I don't know their quality.
Once you have the cylinder off, 93 if I remember correctly, measure the crankcase opening so you know if a 246 can fit if you are lucky enough to come across a set.
Nobody really knows exactly when HVA got ready for 44mm.

 

[Tor R]

It has been a few years since I last worked on this series, but I have regained my interest in chainsaws.

In work, 238's.

I have had a complete chainsaw, but it had a crank with inner crank bearing spin, to make it complete I got hold of another crank, which had the same problem.

Then I bought a part saw, but it has a usable crank.

Part Saw work, from 1986 week 12:


Along the way I bought a 238SE which will have the normal new parts, and a 238G which will also go through the same thing.

 

[Tor R]

The three projects look promising, actually I was satisfied with only one success.

One ends up with a part here and a part there, comes from three parts saws that become a complete one.
During the search, an extra cylinder popped up, I have to look for the piston. This is the opinion that should be used in the forest.

Projects 1 and 2 are low hour saws, should not offer too many disappointments.

There will be some pictures tomorrow about how the projects are going.

I will take advanced timings, but 238 flywheel and 2 shoe clutch, it may happen that I end up with lighter parts eventually....

I had (5 years ago when I looked in the parts boxes) a good selection for the PTO, obviously I had focused there with bearings and 7 sealing rings, on the flywheel side there were two new bearings and zero seals.

I've made a kinda huge order list tonight lol

 

[Bob95065]

I'm working on a 42 Special for a friend who bought the saw used. The clutch splines were beat up by the PO installing the chain between the rim and case. They eventually fixed it but the rim couldn't ride on the splines due to the burrs. It sat against the oil pump gear and melted it.

I got a new gear and drum set. How does the power transfer from the drum to the gear? I'm used to seeing a spline impression or another means of connecting the two but this gear doesn't have anything that I see

 

[trooney]

I'm working on a 42 Special for a friend who bought the saw used. The clutch splines were beat up by the PO installing the chain between the rim and case. They eventually fixed it but the rim couldn't ride on the splines due to the burrs. It sat against the oil pump gear and melted it.

I got a new gear and drum set. How does the power transfer from the drum to the gear? I'm used to seeing a spline impression or another means of connecting the two but this gear doesn't have anything that I see

If I remember correctly its direct drive. Oils when its idleing as well as throttleing up. It drives the gear all the time.

 

[Bob95065]

I think I answered my own question by reading through this thread.

From post #4:

Worm gears:
View attachment 55215

The saw I am working on has the worm gear on the left. If is plastic with four slots.

From post #23:

There is a "Oregon Power-mate" drum that can be found if your lucky . Part No 40068.

View attachment 56445

The ears on drum 40068 engage the slots in the gear. From the post and poking around on the web that drum is hard to find. Can I convert the saw to use one if the worm gears in the middle of the picture of worm gears above?

 

[trooney]

You can pull off that worm gear with a puller. I had a special one that pulled a few from my 262's

 

[trooney]

It threaded on the worm gear and then attach a puller to it

 

[Tor R]

I think I answered my own question by reading through this thread.

From post #4:



The saw I am working on has the worm gear on the left. If is plastic with four slots.

From post #23:


The ears on drum 40068 engage the slots in the gear. From the post and poking around on the web that drum is hard to find. Can I convert the saw to use one if the worm gears in the middle of the picture of worm gears above?

The one to left in post #4 is the last version.

I think Oregon is phasing out 242 clutch drums.
If you have the oil drive with the slots,
the clutch drum you should have is Oregon 40068, Husqvarna's part number is 501.63.66.05.

You can of course go back in time, but I think it's about as hard to find parts then too.
If so, then it's Oregon 29105, you need washer, and the drive was the same one used on 133/234/238/44 and 444, was available in both plastic and bronze.

 

[Bob95065]

I have the Husqvarna work gear puller. What I don't know is I the worm gear is compatible with the oil pump that is on the saw. Anyone know?

 

[trooney]

I have the Husqvarna work gear puller. What I don't know is I the worm gear is compatible with the oil pump that is on the saw.

See if the teeth fit. If its the right worm gear, which is still available, it should. If it doesnt have teeth, then no.

 

[trooney]

Do you have a pic of the sprocket or drum?