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The Husky 42/42 special/242/246 thread

chipper1

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Finally got my 246 all back together. Installed a new oem piston/ring/bearing and a new pto side crank seal (get them while you still can). I painted the clutch cover and I'm waiting on a new decal from Sugar Creek Supply. Did a base gasket delete and ended up with .019 squish. Also rebuilt the HDA98 carb and painted the muffler. I have a guy coming tomorrow to remove a tree in my yard so I will likely give the 246 some work cutting up the large limbs.
View attachment 248008
View attachment 248009 View attachment 248010 View attachment 248011
That's a looker Chris.
Here's one of mine, fun little saws.
 

CJ Brown

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That's a looker Chris.
Here's one of mine, fun little saws.
Thanks Brett - it isn't a mint saw but it hasn't been abused either. I did spend a few hours cleaning every part so it looks pretty good right now.

One question for all the 242/246 gurus here: is there an easy way to install the bottom anti-vibe buffers that fit into the recesses at the bottom of the fuel tank? These are the buffers that really aren't attached to the saw and are basically wedged between the crankcase and the tank/handle with the small screw and nut . I did manage to get them installed, but it was a struggle!
 

Tor R

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Thanks Brett - it isn't a mint saw but it hasn't been abused either. I did spend a few hours cleaning every part so it looks pretty good right now.

One question for all the 242/246 gurus here: is there an easy way to install the bottom anti-vibe buffers that fit into the recesses at the bottom of the fuel tank? These are the buffers that really aren't attached to the saw and are basically wedged between the crankcase and the tank/handle with the small screw and nut . I did manage to get them installed, but it was a struggle!
its possible to get them installed, but I find it easier to loose up the two rear buffers and lift up.
Only thing to remember is to dismantle the fuel line from the carb.
If you have an G saw you gotta remember the wire to the switch also.
 

chipper1

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Thanks Brett - it isn't a mint saw but it hasn't been abused either. I did spend a few hours cleaning every part so it looks pretty good right now.

One question for all the 242/246 gurus here: is there an easy way to install the bottom anti-vibe buffers that fit into the recesses at the bottom of the fuel tank? These are the buffers that really aren't attached to the saw and are basically wedged between the crankcase and the tank/handle with the small screw and nut . I did manage to get them installed, but it was a struggle!
The one in the video is pretty clean too, but not mint. It has a MM, light port work, piston cut to run without a base gasket/base gasket delete. It's got the gilardoni cylinder, so does my ported 440, great runners they both are.

Iirc I don't have the buffers in this one, I have another that needs the carb redone, it may have them.
 

CJ Brown

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its possible to get them installed, but I find it easier to loose up the two rear buffers and lift up.
Only thing to remember is to dismantle the fuel line from the carb.
If you have an G saw you gotta remember the wire to the switch also.
Thanks Tor. That's pretty much exactly what I did when reassembling the saw. I started the fuel line through the grommet then installed the front buffers but not tight, then lifted the rear of the crankcase off the tank/handle and wedged those bottom buffers in - they are tight! The tiny nuts kept trying to pop out every time I would pry but eventually perseverance won the day.
 

CJ Brown

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The one in the video is pretty clean too, but not mint. It has a MM, light port work, piston cut to run without a base gasket/base gasket delete. It's got the gilardoni cylinder, so does my ported 440, great runners they both are.

Iirc I don't have the buffers in this one, I have another that needs the carb redone, it may have them.
Sounds like an ideal small saw Brett. When assembling mine, I seriously considered just omitting the bottom buffers. I think the saw would likely handle just fine with only 4 buffers since it is pretty light and a person wouldn't be dogging it hard in when cutting. But.... I'm pretty anal about keeping a saw the way the engineers designed it - at least for a stock saw that I am bringing back to life.
 

Glock37

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Today is the day when we gone go through PTO bearings.
I used to have a few, but not anymore..
View attachment 69414

slacker 543301 is their original name, Husky #501 59 40 02.
There was used one SKF bearing with Husky # 501 59 40 01, i'll see if I can get the number.
Stihl used a slacker bearing in their 020 AV Super, slacker 524453, or SKF 394764AA

I spoked with slacker Norway today, none of those bearings are in production anymore, what we find today is the amount who is left, no new bearing will arrive.
Both Husky and Stihl has quit offering those bearings also.

slacker 543301
slacker 543301 E23
slacker Z-543301

Stihl 020 AV Super:
slacker 524453
slacker Z-525453
SKF 394764AA (Stihl 020 AV Super)

Also:
slacker 525453 Z27B

I'll see if I can dig up more information for us

This is the bearing they started it up with, 133SG PTO bearing from 1980 SKF BBB 242803:
View attachment 69419

[mention]Definitive Dave [/mention]


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82f100swb

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I don't remember seeing it in the 97 Catalog I forgot at dad's house last year. It may have left the north american market earlier like so many saws did.
 
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