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Mastermind

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I'd think that most people can tell that "little yellow friends" is humor, at least that would be to hope for.
If you know what I wrote, why do you then claim I wrote something else?
The solenoid was obviously not in the ultrasonic, where do you see I said so?
Inspecting bearings and cleaning a carb is waste of time? Really? Go tell that to anyone, that aren't too keen on failure.
https://www.gardenhirespares.co.uk/9523-003-4262-genuine-stihl-ball-bearing-15x35x13.html That's $22, retail.

I'm in no way bothered by people who can't read or write, I generally feel sorry for them, unless they're adequately socially retarded, to be a burden to deal with. What I do take from it usually, is that here we have somebody, who had a few hard years in third grade.

What a great pissing contest you're running here at this forum. I'm confident you guys are doing well in life in general.
Have fun, and don't forget to look up the definition of "retarded".
Take a break.

Ok?
 

bwalker

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I wrote a post on LawnSite about setting mixture. Tell me if you agree/disagree. Scroll down to post #9.

With a blower the load is constant and they are rev limited so what I do is set to the factory rpm and run it to see what it does. Often at factory spec they are still on the rich side so I lean them out to just below the rev limited RPM. I then set the LS jet just rich enough they start easily.
Redmax actually have tuning bulletins for their trimmers and blowers which are very good.
 

Merkava_4

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With a blower the load is constant and they are rev limited so what I do is set to the factory rpm and run it to see what it does. Often at factory spec they are still on the rich side so I lean them out to just below the rev limited RPM. I then set the LS jet just rich enough they start easily.
Redmax actually have tuning bulletins for their trimmers and blowers which are very good.

I've always used my ears to determine RPM changes for setting mixture. Using a tachometer would be a new approach for me. I'd like to try it sometime. Which tachometer do you use?
 

Mastermind

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I've always used my ears to determine RPM changes for setting mixture. Using a tachometer would be a new approach for me. I'd like to try it sometime. Which tachometer do you use?
The DTI Fast Tach.
I used to set engines by tachometer. However, that cannot take into account a worn or extra-well made engine. I think if you know what you're doing, tuning by ear cannot be beaten.
Tuning by ear is fine on saws that ain't RPM limited. But the limited units are a different deal. I tune then till they just touch the RPM limiter by watching for the break point on the tach.....then go a fuzz leaner. Yes......a FUZZ is a technical term.
 

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Tuning by ear is fine on saws that ain't RPM limited. But the limited units are a different deal. I tune then till they just touch the RPM limiter by watching for the break point on the tach.....then go a fuzz leaner. Yes......a FUZZ is a technical term.
True. I will use a tach on something like a 372. Most of what I'm working on is not truly limited, although most saws at least retard the timing.
 

lehman live edge slab

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That's a wireless tach so does the engine cover have to be off to expose the flywheel and a Sharpie mark drawn on the flywheel?
It’s a tach not a timing light, no it will read the spark as long as you hold it somewhere close to wire. Called an inductance tach and you can use a wire on lots of them too which will make them refresh faster depending on brand and how old ect.
 

maulhead

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The DTI Fast Tach.

Tuning by ear is fine on saws that ain't RPM limited. But the limited units are a different deal. I tune then till they just touch the RPM limiter by watching for the break point on the tach.....then go a fuzz leaner. Yes......a FUZZ is a technical term.

Very close in measurement to a Dall hair, IIRC?
 

Stump Shot

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Tuning by ear is fine on saws that ain't RPM limited. But the limited units are a different deal. I tune then till they just touch the RPM limiter by watching for the break point on the tach.....then go a fuzz leaner. Yes......a FUZZ is a technical term.
Limited can be done by ear in wood, if done from a rich condition where it is four stroking while cutting. Start leaning it out until it just cleans up while cutting and you have it. This way you get it done before the coil cuts out which confuses the situation by tach or ear if done from a lean condition.
 

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It’s a tach not a timing light, no it will read the spark as long as you hold it somewhere close to wire. Called an inductance tach and you can use a wire on lots of them too which will make them refresh faster depending on brand and how old ect.

I still have my timing light but I don't have the car anymore. It was a 1970 Mercury Cougar XR7 with the 351C-4V mated to an FMX trans.
 
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