So what's the current two stroke oil favorite?

[Broken]

I think the Ultra gets a bad wrap.
I've used it a couple a three years with no issues or obvious problems.
I switched to Saber & Red Armor a couple of years ago & am gonna stick with those.

I'm building a couple of saws now & used the Ultra to lube everything (lower rod bearing & wrist pin bearing ect).
I have no doubt it will be fine.

If you have your saw tuned properly to oil ratio & run it hard , a Jaso FB rated oil will perform adequately . FB oils tend to not completely burn in the fuel charge & leave residual deposits behind .

 

[Broken]

I think the Ultra gets a bad wrap.
I've used it a couple a three years with no issues or obvious problems.
I switched to Saber & Red Armor a couple of years ago & am gonna stick with those.

I'm building a couple of saws now & used the Ultra to lube everything (lower rod bearing & wrist pin bearing ect).
I have no doubt it will be fine.

Any current modern 2T oil will suffice as an effective assembly lube . Even Ultra is better than dry fitting engine components , unless your welcoming cold seize potential lol.

 

[huskihl]

I believe the phrase for the crankcase is "Dry as a Popcorn Fart"

Yes.
Hi Rich

 

[whitesnake]

Yes.
Hi Rich

Piston was surprisingly decent, and wet. But crank and case bone dry. Clean though?? Lol. You basically referring to the oil?? 100ll shouldn’t affect anything. Hopefully, I’ve been known to run a fair amount.

 

[rogue60]

This is what ya want to see in a abused hard working work saw with a couple thousand hrs on it.
066 run on and tuned for 25:1 mineral oil it whole life still has good ring seal no blow by no carboned up exhaust or gummed up rings with that many hrs on it



I do also use Synthetic oils I use them in my 2T bikes @ 32:1

 

[mrxlh]

This is what ya want to see in a abused hard working work saw with a couple thousand hrs on it.
066 run on and tuned for 25:1 mineral oil it whole life still has good ring seal no blow by no carboned up exhaust or gummed up rings with that many hrs on it
View attachment 348763 View attachment 348764 View attachment 348765


I do also use Synthetic oils I use them in my 2T bikes @ 32:1
View attachment 348768

Looks awful dry for 25:1…

 

[ammoaddict]

I’ll grab some garden 2t while I’m on this oil mission. Do you use a stabiliser?

I add 1oz of seafoam to every gallon of mix no matter what oil. It is a cleaner and stabilizer.

 

[rogue60]

Looks awful dry for 25:1…

It was sitting for a long time (oil has pooled in bottom of crankcase) before I pulled it apart trying to work out what was wrong with it bottom ends usually have a nice coating of oil like any oil at 25:1 would.
The last time I run it would only run a few minutes then slowly lose lose power and stop leave it 20min and it start up fine and do the same thing.

 

[Loony661]

I add 1oz of seafoam to every gallon of mix no matter what oil. It is a cleaner and stabilizer.

Sea Foam’s main ingredient is Naptha. Naptha is a very strong solvent, and actually fights with the oil in the mix. Although in “small” amounts it is “safe” to use in 2 stroke engines, it literally washes the oil from the mix off of all the parts.. And since most (not all) people just add a couple glub-glubs to their can without measuring, it’s more times than not added at a rate that is too strong and does more harm than good..

That’s what I was taught at a Stihl update school in Hayward, WI.. They had a whole chapter devoted to fuel and fuel additive failures. At any rate, it was an eye opener seeing the picture that accompanied it. I no longer use SeaFoam in chainsaws. It’s great at absorbing moisture from straight gasoline, but not worth the risk in mix fuel in my opinion.

 

[huskihl]

Piston was surprisingly decent, and wet. But crank and case bone dry. Clean though?? Lol. You basically referring to the oil?? 100ll shouldn’t affect anything. Hopefully, I’ve been known to run a fair amount.

Yeah it was clean in the bottom. Just dry.

I made reference to the 100LL because it wasn’t pump gas and seems to burn clean. Just transparency and stating what I knew so folks can make up their own mind. Pump gas tends to not burn as clean and usually there is more carbon or coking

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

This is what ya want to see in a abused hard working work saw with a couple thousand hrs on it.
066 run on and tuned for 25:1 mineral oil it whole life still has good ring seal no blow by no carboned up exhaust or gummed up rings with that many hrs on it
View attachment 348763 View attachment 348764 View attachment 348765


I do also use Synthetic oils I use them in my 2T bikes @ 32:1
View attachment 348768

You cant ask for more than that, bloody amazing, still has clear machine marks on the piston too! That was the activ 2t rather than the Gardner 2t? Was that a coil issue in the end? How come you use synthetics in the bike? I presume because you don’t get them as hot? They wouldn’t burn the mineral oil off as well? Sorry for all the questions, but there is an oppertunity to learn so I’m going to take it lol

 

[rogue60]

You cant ask for more than that, bloody amazing, still has clear machine marks on the piston too! That was the activ 2t rather than the Gardner 2t? Was that a coil issue in the end? How come you use synthetics in the bike? I presume because you don’t get them as hot? They wouldn’t burn the mineral oil off as well? Sorry for all the questions, but there is an oppertunity to learn so I’m going to take it lol

It was run on Ative 95% of it's run time and 5% at the end on Garden.
I replaced everything on that saw to get it going new carb new coil all new lines different plugs still didn't fix it drove me nuts seals were good no air leaks.
Mastermind said try replacing the flywheel he said something about he's seen em go bad before the magnets chit the bed. I have a flywheel to put on just never got around to try it yet that was few years ago I still have the saw I'll get motivated and see if the flywheel fixes it one day lol

Bikes make a hell of a lot more power than saws. In bikes I've had the mineral oil burns very clean I used to run it in my older bikes with no power valves like PE's DT's ect.
I run the Synthetic in my mx bikes as it's a better suited oil for more race oriented engines, the synthetic oil lubes the power valves as well I reckon they would be dry if I run the mineral with how complete the mineral oil burns.
For my stock saws synthetic oils would just be over kill I found a good mineral oil that works well in saws and never felt the need to change what works
In all of the Stihl manuals they all used to say if not running Stihl oil run 25:1 the mineral oil I use works good at that ratio I wouldn’t run top tier race Synthetic oil at that ratio in a saw myself what a mess that would be lol
It's been proven over and over in the world of two strokes more oil = better ring seal = more power and engine longevity that's factual.
In 4 strokes the oil rings wipe straight oil on the cylinder walls ya never hear anyone ever say for more power and engine longevity in a 4T ya stop/cut most of the oil the oil rings wipe on the cylinder wall lol
That's just my experience and 2c with 2T's and oil I'm no expert oil doesn't keep me awake at night lol.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

It was run on Ative 95% of it's run time and 5% at the end on Garden.
I replaced everything on that saw to get it going new carb new coil all new lines different plugs still didn't fix it drove me nuts seals were good no air leaks.
Mastermind said try replacing the flywheel he said something about he's seen em go bad before the magnets chit the bed. I have a flywheel to put on just never got around to try it yet that was few years ago I still have the saw I'll get motivated and see if the flywheel fixes it one day lol

Bikes make a hell of a lot more power than saws. In bikes I've had the mineral oil burns very clean I used to run it in my older bikes with no power valves like PE's DT's ect.
I run the Synthetic in my mx bikes as it's a better suited oil for more race oriented engines, the synthetic oil lubes the power valves as well I reckon they would be dry if I run the mineral with how complete the mineral oil burns.
For my stock saws synthetic oils would just be over kill I found a good mineral oil that works well in saws and never felt the need to change what works
In all of the Stihl manuals they all used to say if not running Stihl oil run 25:1 the mineral oil I use works good at that ratio I wouldn’t run top tier race Synthetic oil at that ratio in a saw myself what a mess that would be lol
It's been proven over and over in the world of two strokes more oil = better ring seal = more power and engine longevity that's factual.
In 4 strokes the oil rings wipe straight oil on the cylinder walls ya never hear anyone ever say for more power and engine longevity in a 4T ya stop/cut most of the oil the oil rings wipe on the cylinder wall lol
That's just my experience and 2c with 2T's and oil I'm no expert oil doesn't keep me awake at night lol.

Thanks for all the info, much appreciated! All makes a lot of sense, I’m off to get some activ or garden, whatever I find first - supercheap has a sale that ends today LOL! What was your reason to switch to the garden from the 2t activ after having such good results with activ?

Edit:


Looked at both activ and standard 2t.

Standard $15 per L
Activ $20 per L

No brainer, save 25% - I presume that’s why you went to Gardner 2t?

 

[rogue60]

Thanks for all the info, much appreciated! All makes a lot of sense, I’m off to get some activ or garden, whatever I find first - supercheap has a sale that ends today LOL! What was your reason to switch to the garden from the 2t activ after having such good results with activ?

Edit:


Looked at both activ and standard 2t.

Standard $15 per L
Activ $20 per L

No brainer, save 25% - I presume that’s why you went to Gardner 2t?

View attachment 348821

Our supplier of fuels/oils for the mill reckoned ya couldn't get Activ anymore so went with Garden for a few years.. Is good oil in my experience 660/661 run all day in 40c heat day after day on it with zero oil related problems that's mixed at 25:1 sometimes if I can be bothered I'll mix it up at 32:1 for little saws.
I still use Activ or Garden doesn't bother me I get whatever is on the shelf at the time now day's.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Our supplier of fuels/oils for the mill reckoned ya couldn't get Activ anymore so went with Garden for a few years.. Is good oil in my experience 660/661 run all day in 40c heat day after day on it with zero oil related problems.
I still use Activ or Garden doesn't bother me I get whatever is on the shelf at the time now day's.

Good stuff If it’s good enough for you and trains, enough said.

 

[Broken]

I add 1oz of seafoam to every gallon of mix no matter what oil. It is a cleaner and stabilizer.

A 60 / 40 mix of lubricity & solvency in a can ! If your mix is fat to the tune no problems !

 

[Broken]

Looks awful dry for 25:1…

FC rated Dino air cooled oils @ that ratio tuned on the edge of lean tend to not pool a lot . Quality mineral oils with a lower viscosity index, burn & seal rings well & clean ! P.S. Group III mineral oils are rudimentary syn. quality grade oil without all the additives !

 

[Broken]

Yeah it was clean in the bottom. Just dry.

I made reference to the 100LL because it wasn’t pump gas and seems to burn clean. Just transparency and stating what I knew so folks can make up their own mind. Pump gas tends to not burn as clean and usually there is more carbon or coking

Thanks for the clarification Kevin , way to many folk do not realize the effects that poor quality fuel has on the mix quality of 2T engine performance & longitivity . I have seen more sponge & choking of 2T engines , due to improper tuning to the mix , which can be compounded by inferior fuel usage .

 

[Broken]

Sea Foam’s main ingredient is Naptha. Naptha is a very strong solvent, and actually fights with the oil in the mix. Although in “small” amounts it is “safe” to use in 2 stroke engines, it literally washes the oil from the mix off of all the parts.. And since most (not all) people just add a couple glub-glubs to their can without measuring, it’s more times than not added at a rate that is too strong and does more harm than good..

That’s what I was taught at a Stihl update school in Hayward, WI.. They had a whole chapter devoted to fuel and fuel additive failures. At any rate, it was an eye opener seeing the picture that accompanied it. I no longer use SeaFoam in chainsaws. It’s great at absorbing moisture from straight gasoline, but not worth the risk in mix fuel in my opinion.

Actually Seafoams active ingredients are 60 % kerosene 25 % Naptha & 15 % isopropyl alcohol . Cheveron & MMO have similar products that substitutes the Kerosene with Stoddard solvent . Stoddard solvent can have either benzene or xylene or toluene component mixtures which are quite hazardous to humans . ( recognized carcinogens ). I do not use it in 2T mix unless there is a minor carb fouling issue then an ounce in the fuel will clean out any residual issues quickly . Any 2T oil i use has a stabilizer additive package that includes a emulsifier . P.S. Just a side note Mercury Canada routinely uses & recommends 1-2 ounces of Seafoam per gallon of fuel for decarbonizing their Marine Engine fleet as required . In closing I agree with loony661 's recommendation for proper use of any form of additive & caution within following its manufacturers direct within amount to be used !

 

[Loony661]

Actually Seafoams active ingredients are 60 % kerosene 25 % Naptha & 15 % isopropyl alcohol . Cheveron & MMO have similar products that substitutes the Kerosene with Stoddard solvent . Stoddard solvent can have either benzene or xylene or toluene component mixtures which are quite hazardous to humans . ( recognized carcinogens ). I do not use it in 2T mix unless there is a minor carb fouling issue then an ounce in the fuel will clean out any residual issues quickly . Any 2T oil i use has a stabilizer additive package that includes a emulsifier . P.S. Just a side note Mercury Canada routinely uses & recommends 1-2 ounces of Seafoam per gallon of fuel for decarbonizing their Marine Engine fleet as required . In closing I agree with loony661 's recommendation for proper use of any form of additive & caution within following its manufacturers direct within amount to be used !

From what I understand, the amount of Naptha in SeaFoam is the maximum allowed by law in the U.S. because of its potency.