So what's the current two stroke oil favorite?

[rogue60]

2 different saws, different porting, different air filtration systems. It's a creamsicles to oranges comparison. Maybe the Stihl is just burning more sawdust.

Burning sawdust? meh got that covered lol
A few sawdust fines destroying a saw? yeah I'd switching oils personally or running more oil than 50:1 to combat all this "sawdust" damage.

Don't panic looks dry yes I cleaned any oil off/out of that saw so I could get clear pics of any wear. That's a thousand plus hr saw.

 

[Moparmyway]

Nothing like a few pictures to stop all of the noise !!!!

If I wasn't COMPLETELY satisfied with Dominator, or Schaeffer's 7000, I'd likely be running Castrol or Saber.

Red Armor is just too dang expensive these days, there are oils out there that are just as good for better $$.

I hear Schaeffer's has gotten expensive as well, no ??

 

[redlight066]

I really like this guys content, I recently subscribed, he’s got such great content. No BS, no bias. Tells it how it is.

That guy is a hack!

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

That guy is a hack!

Why do you say that? I enjoy his content.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Burning sawdust? meh got that covered lol
A few sawdust fines destroying a saw? yeah I'd switching oils personally or running more oil than 50:1 to combat all this "sawdust" damage.

Don't panic looks dry yes I cleaned any oil off/out of that saw so I could get clear pics of any wear. That's a thousand plus hr saw.
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Sweet pics! The joys of Aussi hard wood right

 

[redlight066]

Nothing like a few pictures to stop all of the noise !!!!

If I wasn't COMPLETELY satisfied with Dominator, or Schaeffer's 7000, I'd likely be running Castrol or Saber.

Red Armor is just too dang expensive these days, there are oils out there that are just as good for better $$.

I hear Schaeffer's has gotten expensive as well, no ??

Last time I bought 7000 I think I paid about $65-70 for 6 quarts delivered from an Ohio seller. That seller is at $100 now. There is a seller on Ebay from Indiana that has 6 for $80 delivered. Not horrible but like everything else it's still too high.

 

[redlight066]

Why do you say that? I enjoy his content.

That 066 Red Light, bench and back door in my avatar look familiar? Lol! I'm Rich Flagg

 

[rogue60]

Either it’s the 32:1 ratio of this oil, or just the oil itself, but castor 927 isn’t for me. Just gives me a sore throat! Regarding the smell that people say they love, to me it just smells like burnt vegetable oil, certainly nothing I’d say that smells even close to nice. Second tank today in a whipper snipper (weed whacker), which is 30 minutes of constant trigger pinned and loaded for 99.5% of the time. I was under no illusion in that this oil would be the best choice in OPE, I know it’s not designed for it, but even this caught me off guard, it’s dirty & leaving a resinous (glassy and shiny hard not sticky) coating. It was tuned well, no spooge, no fouling of the plug, no incomplete / unburnt oil residue. Cool to see and fun to test. Next I’ll try the exact same test with Amsoil Saber, but mixed at 40:1.

View attachment 348955

Don't look to bad really but more run time would give a better gauge of how well the oil and tune is performing.
Reading a plug it's the porcelain you are looking at a plug fouls when the porcelain gets covered in layer of oil/carbon.
A happy 2T is a tuned correct worked hard 2T A Safe cautious fat cold tune doesn't do any 2T any favors.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Don't look to bad really but more run time would give a better gauge of how well the oil and tune is performing.
Reading a plug it's the porcelain you are looking at a plug fouls when the porcelain gets covered in layer of oil/carbon.
A happy 2T is a tuned correct worked hard 2T A Safe cautious fat cold tune doesn't do any 2T any favors.

interesting thanks mate, hey, any chance you’d do a YouTube video of your tuning process? I’m always curious as to how quickly peoples saws clean up when under load. Some have them on the edge of 4 stroking out the cut, screaming and they clean up the second they touch the wood. Others (myself included) will set them for a good 4 stroke out of load and clean up when under good load rather than cleaning up as soon as it touches wood. I haven’t got the experience of people like yourself and others who can push a tune to its max and do so safely, so I stay on the slightly richer side knowing that it’s at least safe. I did a chainsaw tuning video a fair while ago, I guess it’s a good example of how I tune a saw. I’d be curious to see how you do yours and learn what I can.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

That 066 Red Light, bench and back door in my avatar look familiar? Lol! I'm Rich Flagg

Ah hi haha, yeah I enjoy your content, no bs and just straight up and factual based off what you see.

 

[rogue60]

interesting thanks mate, hey, any chance you’d do a YouTube video of your tuning process? I’m always curious as to how quickly peoples saws clean up when under load. Some have them on the edge of 4 stroking out the cut, screaming and they clean up the second they touch the wood. Others (myself included) will set them for a good 4 stroke out of load and clean up when under good load rather than cleaning up as soon as it touches wood. I haven’t got the experience of people like yourself and others who can push a tune to its max and do so safely, so I stay on the slightly richer side knowing that it’s at least safe. I did a chainsaw tuning video a fair while ago, I guess it’s a good example of how I tune a saw. I’d be curious to see how you do yours and learn what I can.

The guys on here could tune a saw better than me.
I don't tune a saw special or anything but ya I do tune more towards hot cleans up fast under load kind of tune more so than a cold fat tune.
I wouldn't worry to much about what I do I don't even clean me air filters enough am a saw abuser lol just do you.
I actually think the 1st gen "leaner" coil for the 661 is the best tune people were burning em up with the 1st gen coil so the update coils got fatter and fatter that's a 50:1 problem more than tune problem IMHO.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Lots of great folk and huge experience available, but seeing how hard you work your saws and how good they look, you better believe I’m going to ask you questions and learn from you too lol. If you go out next cutting and remember about my question on tuning and can chuck a camera on I’d be keen to hear.

when you run them on the leaner / hotter side of a tune, are you not concerned about burning it up, especially with the harder wood and thus longer cuts and higher temps here. I’m certain I’m over cautious with how I run my equipment, I could get more out of it, but don’t have the experience and hours on ope to know how far I can push it.

 

[rogue60]

Lots of great folk and huge experience available, but seeing how hard you work your saws and how good they look, you better believe I’m going to ask you questions and learn from you too lol. If you go out next cutting and remember about my question on tuning and can chuck a camera on I’d be keen to hear.

when you run them on the leaner / hotter side of a tune, are you not concerned about burning it up, especially with the harder wood and thus longer cuts and higher temps here. I’m certain I’m over cautious with how I run my equipment, I could get more out of it, but don’t have the experience and hours on ope to know how far I can push it.

No isn't even a thought that enters my head burning up a saw.
But that is just from my experience and confidence in the oil and ratio I've run for thousands and thousands of hrs in saws I've never burned up a saw neither has any of my family they run the same oil/ratio.
Not saying the oil I run is the best I'd never run it at 50:1 or 40:1 for that matter is lots of good oils out there the guys on here have used/tested and know what oils perform good in saws that red armer looks to be an excellent oil as do many other oils. But yeah I agree with the guys that say Stihl Ultra is nasty I couldn't handle the smell I used the 5L bottle I had as bar oil lol
I've had plenty of failures over the years all basic common stuff just never any oil related.
My experience is with Stihls only owned one husky myself so basically zero long term experience with them but was kind of shocked when the muffler fell off the husky WTF lol

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

No isn't even a thought that enters my head burning up a saw.
But that is just from my experience and confidence in the oil and ratio I've run for thousands and thousands of hrs in saws I've never burned up a saw neither has any of my family they run the same oil/ratio.
Not saying the oil I run is the best I'd never run it at 50:1 or 40:1 for that matter is lots of good oils out there the guys on here have used/tested and know what oils perform good in saws that red armer looks to be an excellent oil as do many other oils. But yeah I agree with the guys that say Stihl Ultra is nasty I couldn't handle the smell I used the 5L bottle I had as bar oil lol
I've had plenty of failures over the years all basic common stuff just never any oil related.
My experience is with Stihls only owned one husky myself so basically zero long term experience with them but was kind of shocked when the muffler fell off the husky WTF lol
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Wow! How did you break the crank?! I’m going to re watch some of your videos and have a listen to the tune yeah I looked at red armour but can’t get it here sadly! Even asked a local stihl dealer if he knew of any contacts.

Have you got a picture of a plug in any of your well used saws? I don’t recall you showing one yet and I’m curious to see.

 

[North by Northwest]

The castor 927 is a modern synthetic ether base wjth castor. I’m not sure if this makes it a modern version of the dirtier classic castor oils?

Klotz Benol , also is a more modern Castor based oil . However caster is castor , its superiority was & is gall prevention . Down side was & is still , ring & piston dome deposits . It's a fine line in tuning & additive package within the castor package to burn the oil within the mix to reduce the accumulation & then have the detergent package emulsifiy the remaining residue and allow it be be burned off effectively . In summary it's a dicy proposition to use any castor based oil without a working knowledge of it pros & cons brother !

 

[North by Northwest]

Moderation is key.

Exactly !

 

[North by Northwest]

I really like this guys content, I recently subscribed, he’s got such great content. No BS, no bias. Tells it how it is.

Have ran Amsoil Saber , when it originally came out as a suitable snowmobile air cooled engine premix oil . Ran it for 5 yrs in a Vintage Polaris 500 Triple Centurian INDY , Tore the engine down seasonally & the wear was negligent & same carbon & crank pooling characteristics as the Husky 395 xp . After the racing I retired the sled & refreshed the top end which still was in a few psi of factory compression tolerances & ran the sled with a lighting coil as a fun trail sled for another 3 yrs .

 

[North by Northwest]

No isn't even a thought that enters my head burning up a saw.
But that is just from my experience and confidence in the oil and ratio I've run for thousands and thousands of hrs in saws I've never burned up a saw neither has any of my family they run the same oil/ratio.
Not saying the oil I run is the best I'd never run it at 50:1 or 40:1 for that matter is lots of good oils out there the guys on here have used/tested and know what oils perform good in saws that red armer looks to be an excellent oil as do many other oils. But yeah I agree with the guys that say Stihl Ultra is nasty I couldn't handle the smell I used the 5L bottle I had as bar oil lol
I've had plenty of failures over the years all basic common stuff just never any oil related.
My experience is with Stihls only owned one husky myself so basically zero long term experience with them but was kind of shocked when the muffler fell off the husky WTF lol
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I'm old school Rogue , & have used the Ultra personally very little . I have witnessed 1st hand what the video indicates on the stihl . However have witness 2nd hand numerous pics of serious carbon fouled pistols & rings & exhaust ports running Ultra from competent saw owners & Stihl supporters . Having raced sleds & bikes , decarbonizing in race application is a common procedure , not so much within consumer saw recreational firewood cutting . It's all about the tune & proper fuel / oil mix to the cutting application imo .

 

[North by Northwest]

Interesting perspective. It’s always a possibility that there is an ulterior motive. In my opinion however, the way the information was presented did not seem to be at all in a way to “keep business” but rather to truly inform on the dangers of mis-use and to also promote longevity of the power equipment.

It should be noted that were not pushing any other products at this time either, specifically anythings they would make money on. Rather they were thoroughly informing us on the dangers of poor quality fuel, and fuel additives in OPE.

Poor quality fuel is an very important often over looked factor within fuel / oil mixture performance concerns !

 

[North by Northwest]

I appreciate your post and it got me to thinking. Is gasoline not a solvent as well? I know seafoam helps keep carbs clean, it also helps to prevent carbon build up. Do you think Stihl doesn't want people to use it because it will knock them out of carb repair and spark screen replacement business?

it follows the rational of not using ether as a quick start for saws . Carb cleaner is normally advised or a small amount of fresh fuel mix sprayed within the carb or spark plug hole . Actually done properly ether is not a con . Actually quality starting sprays have a lublicity adder to the ether spray . However I have seen some unknowledgible owners spray an entire can into a 2 T motor which not doubt could be a negative , in more ways than 1....