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Jonsered 2253 bites the dust - fix or replace?

brahman

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Hey all, good to be here! I'm new.

I came here seeking advice. I've got a Jonsered 2253 that died with very low hours. P & C are scored. Diagnostic tool shows 017 code 5 times in the last 16 starts, which indicates lean seize.

Here it is on the last day it ran:
IMG_4399.JPG

The ultimate cause is unknown. I know some folks will say straight gas, but I really don't think I could be any more uptight about fuel. I've never loaned it out, never fueled it from any can other than my mix can, always used the Jonsered mix oil at 50:1 with ethanol free premium, and the same fuel goes in my weedwhacker and Jred 2166 and both are fine. Could be any number of the known issues with these early autotune saws – it's a 2013 build date purchased in 2017 – but at this point I don't know.

I love this saw. It's like a light saber. I'd like to just have my dealer rebuild it, but he's advising against that. He thinks I'll be into it around 3/4 of the cost of a new saw by the time he's done. He's a good guy and I don't think he's giving me the run around just to sell a new saw. He didn't charge me to look over the saw, borescope it, and run diagnostics.

Another option is to fix it myself. I've got plenty of other projects already, though. And I don't have much experience working on two strokes. Also don't have any of the specialized tools to deal with these saws. It's not that I'm afraid to learn – I know my way around four stroke bikes and trucks and I've been watching Walt's videos for a couple years now and reading threads here like mad. I know I can tackle the job, but I'm not sure it makes sense financially to parts AND buy the tools for the 5 series saws if I might not use them again.

Or I could wait for a sale on a 550mkII XPG. That would definitely be cool. Looks like they finally finished beta testing on their customers and now the saw is good to go. I hate to park the 2253 on my shelf though...

What do you guys recommend? Have the dealer do it? Fix it myself? Buy something else?
 

stihl livin

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Where are you located? Maybe you are close to someone that can maybe assist you. Not sure if this is the same design as the 550 but iirc those had leaks at the transfer covers. Pressure and vac test will help you if there is an air leak.
 

brahman

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Yeah 2253 = 550xp

Saw hasn't been vac tested yet. Embarrassed to admit I don't actually have one. From what I've read these early 550s were notorious for leaky transfers, bad mating surface on the case, bad carbs, leaky air filter boot (mine has lots of dust in the throat of the intake – dealer thought that may have been a contributing factor). Lots of possible causes.
 

BangBang77

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I would rebuild it. That's the whole purpose behind buying a pro level saw.

Husqvarna / Jonsered parts are typically much cheaper than Stihl and can be found all over the internet.

1. Locate a Service Manual and IPL
2. Pressure and vacuum test to identify the leaking component(s)
3. Remove the cylinder to see if it can be salvaged (you can post pics on here and many members will chime in on whether it can be cleaned up); if it can be saved, these guys can walk you through that as well; if not, order a new piston & cylinder kit and whatever parts you identified in the leakdown tests.
4. Install new parts as per the Service Manual
5. Pressure and vacuum test to verify leaks have been repaired and that you didn't create additional leaks during the rebuild process
6. Put her in some wood

I assume (based on HL Supply husqvarna/jonsered OEM kits on their site) you could do it with OEM parts for under $200 plus the cost of a MityVac kit (but that is an investment that can be used over and over so I wouldn't add that into your rebuild cost). Your labor is "free" and you learn something along the way.

just my two cents...
 

cuinrearview

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If you rebuild it yourself you can have any possible question answered by the fine folks here. I have a good used cylinder I'd sell ya but you'd need to swap transfer covers over(mine are 545/2252).

Or, you could find some red saw loving masochist who would give this a good home and put a down payment towards that xpg in your pocket.:eusa_dance:
 

brahman

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I would rebuild it. That's the whole purpose behind buying a pro level saw.

Husqvarna / Jonsered parts are typically much cheaper than Stihl and can be found all over the internet.

1. Locate a Service Manual and IPL
2. Pressure and vacuum test to identify the leaking component(s)
3. Remove the cylinder to see if it can be salvaged (you can post pics on here and many members will chime in on whether it can be cleaned up); if it can be saved, these guys can walk you through that as well; if not, order a new piston & cylinder kit and whatever parts you identified in the leakdown tests.

I like this line of thinking. Just ordered a Mityvac and downloaded the service manual and IPLs. I'll report back once I vac test it and pull the p&c. If the bottom end is hosed and I need to split the case, I might cut my losses. We'll see.

If you rebuild it yourself you can have any possible question answered by the fine folks here. I have a good used cylinder I'd sell ya but you'd need to swap transfer covers over(mine are 545/2252).

Or, you could find some red saw loving masochist who would give this a good home and put a down payment towards that xpg in your pocket.:eusa_dance:

What if I'm the one turning into a red saw loving masochist ;)

Would 545 transfers basically de-tune the saw? Like the 372 vs 2166 transfer covers?
 

cuinrearview

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I like this line of thinking. Just ordered a Mityvac and downloaded the service manual and IPLs. I'll report back once I vac test it and pull the p&c. If the bottom end is hosed and I need to split the case, I might cut my losses. We'll see.



What if I'm the one turning into a red saw loving masochist ;)

Would 545 transfers basically de-tune the saw? Like the 372 vs 2166 transfer covers?
Yes
 

furb

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The kit to block off the intake side for the vac test is cheap through the dealer when I checked. The look like they have a lot going on when you go to pull the cylinder but they are well thought out and easy to get apart and back together. If you get stuck somebody here will help you. I always take pictures so I know how everything goes back together. I am terribly impatient and got through the rebuild of mine without issues.
 
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