Simington / Silvey Square Chain Grinders Tips/Tricks/Secrets

[Homemade]

I know I have to clean the gullets, but what do you you think about the angles? Too much forward lean?

 

[Canadian farm boy]

I know I have to clean the gullets, but what do you you think about the angles? Too much forward lean?

Looks good to me. Should cut really well.

 

[Dolkitafreak]

I know I have to clean the gullets, but what do you you think about the angles? Too much forward lean?

Perfect imo

 

[Michpatriot]

The tooth you ground is gonna cut great!..later on if you want more longevity there's adjustments that can get you there..this stuff is so subjective to the individual, and obviously the wood type. I spent a bunch of time getting where I'm at now with a heap of info from a forum member, I now have everything I ever dreamed of for hardwood work chain..I wanted smooth bore cutting and lasting performance.. I also love how touching up a face at a steep angle how square grind just slices in and gives you the little shave without any fuss..and limbing with square is amazing.. cut the whole cuff off the trunk like a razor. This is my work grind.

 

[pbillyi69]

I know I have to clean the gullets, but what do you you think about the angles? Too much forward lean?

does the top plate have a lip on it or is it just the way the picture is? it looks pretty good might be a little grabby with that much forward lean but it should cut good

 

[Moparmyway]

I know I have to clean the gullets, but what do you you think about the angles? Too much forward lean?

Looks good to me. Should cut really well.

Perfect imo

I agree with these two fart smellers !!
A little forward lean means a taller raker.
That combination makes for a longer lasting cutting tooth !
Nice grind !!!

 

[Dolkitafreak]

I agree with these two fart smellers !!
A little forward lean means a taller raker.
That combination makes for a longer lasting cutting tooth !
Nice grind !!!

Agreed, he got under the top plate pretty far, which will be fast but since it’s got lean I bet that chain still holds up multiple tanks in hardwood. I’ll take a sharp tooth and tall rakers every day over a blunt tooth and low rakers to make up for it, smooth and fast is the goal!

 

[Homemade]

does the top plate have a lip on it or is it just the way the picture is?

be


I think it’s just a shadow from the overhead light. I know it looks a little wonky

 

[Bryan Marks]

View attachment 329896The tooth you ground is gonna cut great!..later on if you want more longevity there's adjustments that can get you there..this stuff is so subjective to the individual, and obviously the wood type. I spent a bunch of time getting where I'm at now with a heap of info from a forum member, I now have everything I ever dreamed of for hardwood work chain..I wanted smooth bore cutting and lasting performance.. I also love how touching up a face at a steep angle how square grind just slices in and gives you the little shave without any fuss..and limbing with square is amazing.. cut the whole cuff off the trunk like a razor. This is my work grind.

What angles are your grinder set to? Loaded question I know but can I get the down and dirty.

 

[Moparmyway]

he got under the top plate pretty far, which will be fast but since it’s got lean I bet that chain still holds up multiple tanks in hardwood. I’ll take a sharp tooth and tall rakers every day over a blunt tooth and low rakers to make up for it, smooth and fast is the goal!

THIS !!!!!

I truly hope the guys reading this fully understand what’s being said here !

There’s many ways to get a chain to cut, but keeping it cutting, tank after tank, takes more than just a little know-how !!!!!

I wish I could “like” the quoted post more than once ……….

 

[Michpatriot]

I started to post numbers but its futile as everyone has such different needs.. the tooth I posted a pic of, is golden for me..and with a bit of trial can be had with adjustments..
This gets to be a quagmire of opinions and expectations. My fast ain't your fast and such.
Homemade asked about the forward lean..I think it looks fine.

 

[Bryan Marks]

I posted these pics before but that’s my current grind for cutting timber. Soft wood I’m thinking about making my top plate angle a little more blunt around 18/20 degrees and give it a shot. But I do like a aggressive chain

 

[Duane(Pa)]

I posted these pics before but that’s my current grind for cutting timber. Soft wood I’m thinking about making my top plate angle a little more blunt around 18/20 degrees and give it a shot. But I do like a aggressive chain

I wouldn’t touch a thing! That looks PFG

 

[Homemade]

We’ll it did cut good for the 1/2 tank of gas it survived. I should have been using semi chisel for this log pile. Lots of dirt and mud in the bark.


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[Bryan Marks]

Wh

We’ll it did cut good for the 1/2 tank of gas it survived. I should have been using semi chisel for this log pile. Lots of dirt and mud in the bark.


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what are your rakers set to. The pic looked like they were pretty low.

 

[Duane(Pa)]

We’ll it did cut good for the 1/2 tank of gas it survived. I should have been using semi chisel for this log pile. Lots of dirt and mud in the bark.


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Bad juju...

 

[Homemade]

Wh
what are your rakers set to. The pic looked like they were pretty low.

They were set to the “soft” setting on my husky roller file guide. The best I could measure they were somewhere around .30-.32. I’m mostly cutting box elder and dead ash. That one log pile are 4 of my chains between mud and rocks smushed in the bark.


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[pbillyi69]

View attachment 326959 Check the up down angle repeatability using a digital angle finder on this surface..it had better repeat all the way through the up down travel...From the factory, when I tightened the knob to lock the up down travel this angle finder went into the 2.0°s and that was just the twist being applied to the outer arm, to get rid of this take a black Sharpie and with the locking knob for the up down travel removed, swing the arm up as far as it will go exposing the surface interface where the two arms lock up, color this entire surface with the sharpie and then reinstall the knob lightly tighten it so that you can operate the arm up and down dragging the interfacing surfaces and leaving witness marks..I filed the high spots carefully until the surfaces mated nice, it took many times disassembling and re coloring to finally spot it in..then came the right thickness washer stackup..The roll pin walking out was a constant changing variable that once I put a bolt in place and removed the roll pin problem I made the final change with the washers and found perfection...crazy fun!

when you did this process what did you use as a starting point for zero and how did you check to see if zero was square and true?

 

[huskihl]

when you did this process what did you use as a starting point for zero and how did you check to see if zero was square and true?

If you zero the indicator against the wheel, every vertical surface of the arm should be 90 including the chain holder

 

[pbillyi69]

well that makes too much sense and way too simple for me to think of it... lol