Simington / Silvey Square Chain Grinders Tips/Tricks/Secrets

[huskihl]

I was referring to the chain holder disc...

Derail though?

 

[huskihl]

The metal chain holders are awesome until you have a tiny burr on a driver. Not discounting Shaun’s work or idea at all. It’s machined beautifully. The rails on the metal discs are tighter than your bar groove so small burrs pass through the bar

 

[srcarr52]

The metal chain holders are awesome until you have a tiny burr on a driver. Not discounting Shaun’s work or idea at all. It’s machined beautifully. The rails on the metal discs are tighter than your bar groove so small burrs pass through the bar

The solution is to run all Cannon bars, they are as tight of tolerance as my chain holders.

 

[huskihl]

The solution is to run all Cannon bars, they are as tight of tolerance as my chain holders.

You’re not wrong

 

[Duane(Pa)]

So, undersized drivers work good on the tight grooves ? Asking for a friend

 

[huskihl]

So, undersized drivers work good on the tight grooves ? Asking for a friend

Story of your life?

 

[Woodpecker]

I was referring to the chain holder disc...

Hüked on fonicks werked four me! Carry on

 

[Michpatriot]

ok so here is a real techinicle question...how do you find the center line of the arm? more importantly after the motor is shimmed and is the same from side to side how do you adjust for or measure if the arm or that both teeth right and left are making contact with the wheel in the same location from side to side? ie when everything is the same and spot on there shouldnt need to be any changes made to the chain stop and if there are then something is slightly off. for testing my theory i measured cutters and ground one from each side to be exactly the same length and then marked the stone and an adjustment was necessary on the stop to make contact with the stone. i then used a degree wheel and a brand new stone to have it as big as possible put it on trued it up and measured with the degree wheel on the stone and the is almost three degree difference in where it contacts the wheel. which in my mind means the motor isnt centered exactly. which then brings up which way do you move it? rotate the back or the front? i know im splitting hairs and im not the smartest feller but im no dummy either most of the time. i would think the arms center at the pivot point should be in line with the center of the motor but how to measure that? the degree wheel and swinging from side to side is what i have done. i havent made any changes to the motors position because its right on with the shimming. but im sure that the inside angles are a little different between my right cutters and my left cutters. over thunk the crap out of that.

Yep the swing was not centered to my motor centerline by a long shot..It took me a long day once I buckled on my tinfoil helmet to finally get mine to give me the left\right tooth repeatability I wanted..these two washers are key on my Simington to correct the tolerance stack up that has been accepted by the factory as suitable for the consumer. Without the washers the top plate angles were significantly different Left to Right this made angles perfect. Before this and several other adjustments in the up down clamping surface that was so out of square that when you tightend the knob locking up\down adjustment where you wanted it at ..tightening the knob would significantly twist the outer arm and chain holder, throwing off the angles and causing all kinda grief..I got mine to give me perfect left\right angles and perfect corner alignment now, and tooth lengths with in .004 from side to side. I also had found that the roll pin pivot point was walking out, so I replaced the roll pin with a bolt and nylock nut.

 

[Michpatriot]

The tooth advance also needed work..shimming the advance out to get a perfect swing across the slot that the drivers slide through and trimming setscrews to achieve good swing alignment across the chain holder..all the little stuff matters if you don't wanna fight between chain setups (at least for me)..In a video I watched on getting these swing arms to work perfect the guy described his journey\process as a NOSEBLEED..I would agree wholeheartedly.. But once you got it..yer Golden..too bad they can't come tuned perfect right from the factory.

 

[Michpatriot]

Check the up down angle repeatability using a digital angle finder on this surface..it had better repeat all the way through the up down travel...From the factory, when I tightened the knob to lock the up down travel this angle finder went into the 2.0°s and that was just the twist being applied to the outer arm, to get rid of this take a black Sharpie and with the locking knob for the up down travel removed, swing the arm up as far as it will go exposing the surface interface where the two arms lock up, color this entire surface with the sharpie and then reinstall the knob lightly tighten it so that you can operate the arm up and down dragging the interfacing surfaces and leaving witness marks..I filed the high spots carefully until the surfaces mated nice, it took many times disassembling and re coloring to finally spot it in..then came the right thickness washer stackup..The roll pin walking out was a constant changing variable that once I put a bolt in place and removed the roll pin problem I made the final change with the washers and found perfection...crazy fun!

 

[Bryan Marks]

Has anyone used this or something like it? I think it would help. Or use reading glasses to see better? I have good eyes but to see the corner on a freshly dressed blue wheel can be hard to see.

 

[Bryan Marks]

View attachment 326959 Check the up down angle repeatability using a digital angle finder on this surface..it had better repeat all the way through the up down travel...From the factory, when I tightened the knob to lock the up down travel this angle finder went into the 20°s and that was just the twist being applied to the outer arm, to get rid of this take a black Sharpie and with the locking knob for the up down travel removed, swing the arm up as far as it will go exposing the surface interface where the two arms lock up, color this entire surface with the sharpie and then reinstall the knob lightly tighten it so that you can operate the arm up and down dragging the interfacing surfaces and leaving witness marks..I filed the high spots carefully until the surfaces mated nice, it took many times disassembling and re coloring to finally spot it in..then came the right thickness washer stackup..The roll pin walking out was a constant changing variable that once I put a bolt in place and removed the roll pin problem I made the final change with the washers and found perfection...crazy fun!

I like this I’ll have to try my machine but I’m scared cuz I’m a perfectionist lol. Thanks for possibly causing me hours of fiddling. Lol.

 

[huskihl]

Has anyone used this or something like it? I think it would help. Or use reading glasses to see better? I have good eyes but to see the corner on a freshly dressed blue wheel can be hard to see.

The corner is easier to see if you position the light in a way that creates a shadow rather than shining directly on the corner

 

[Dolkitafreak]

The corner is easier to see if you position the light in a way that creates a shadow rather than shining directly on the corner

Wheel color too, I’m young but sometimes it’s a pita to see that corner, I can see it easier on a ground tooth! No idea how you old farts do it

 

[Michpatriot]

Cheater glasses..I cant grind chain or weld without them anymore

 

[huskihl]

Wheel color too, I’m young but sometimes it’s a pita to see that corner, I can see it easier on a ground tooth! No idea how you old farts do it

Cole showed me. Might be a secret?

@Armbru84

 

[Duane(Pa)]

I like secrets especially chain grinding corner forming secrets lol
If I screw up, it’s usually a side beak. Not the end of the world... Top beaks are usually easier to avoid and are completely No-Go

 

[pbillyi69]

some like the light to be behind the tooth because it casts a shadow forward the corner makes a pointed shadow. i wear strong cheaters and get close enough to see the corner. if you wear gloves you can touch a fresh surfaced stone right on the corner and it will leave a line on the stone so you can see it or a pencil lead, or sharpie makes it way easier to see the corner.

 

[Woodpecker]

Has anyone used this or something like it? I think it would help. Or use reading glasses to see better? I have good eyes but to see the corner on a freshly dressed blue wheel can be hard to see.

I have one on mine. I like it

Cole showed me. Might be a secret?

@Armbru84

 

[RI Chevy]

Wear a headlamp. Like a Miner 49er light.