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Machining for port work

awol

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Here is a setup I used for cutting down a flywheel. The lathe is a 1947 Atlas/Craftsman 12" swing.
20160215_195107.jpg


Milling an intake block at an angle, for a five cube saw. The mill is a 1909 Deckel FPO universal stamp mill.
20160214_145015.jpg
 

Al Smith

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FWIW before he got a lathe Brian W, AKA Timber Wolf did all his work on a table top mill.

I used a Bridgeport model M to bore out a Mac 125 block which I cast iron sleeved which is most likely the only example ever found of that on the internet with pictures .Pics are on the other computer .I'll do a thread on it some time but in the mean time it's on the Tree House,Chainsaw Repair and buried in a site I no longer and will never post on again.

Using a mill or a lathe it will take longer to make the holding fixtures and tram the part in than it will to do the cut .Been there and done that .
 

super3

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still... I think it just doesn't matter that much... we are talking about a side load of .001...maybe .002 at the top of the travel of the piston. you are assuming that its better than that from the factory?


Assuming? Not at all.

$60-80,000 machining center has a might tighter tolerance than a couple thou.
 

Mattyo

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oh i believe that you can do better, sorry, i should have been more clear. I don't think I can get it better because I can't clamp it more accurately than that. and again, i'm skeptical as to whether or not it would make a real world difference.

the old bridgeport we are using probably cost about $1500 a few years back. its dirty, and lonely, and unkempt. :( it does what I need it to do though. one day it'll get cleaned up :)
 

Mattyo

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again, i'm not reading properly, my bad... yes, a 60-80k machining center might get it right, but that doesn't necessarily mean they do. plus, I'm pretty sure the cylinder heads and the cases are made in different places... add up the tolerance issues, and I'm not sure an additional +-.001 makes a real world difference
 

Red97

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Tolerance debates end up like "best builder" debates.

Build the best saw you can build, if it dosent work out the only one to blame is yourself.

Lots of good saws have been built with sub par equipment, and less than ideal conditions.

Now to keep this some what on track,
Deets066 looks as if you can mount the rotary table on end (vertical) if so get/make a tail stock and you now have a lathe to turn mandrel's :D
 

Al Smith

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Don't ever think those old Bridgeports won't cut accurately .Those things to hot rodders and engine builders are what a model '94 Winchester is to a deer hunting rifle .

Mine by the way has a brass tag that says Mall Tool Company .Might have milled parts for huge old chainsaws of a bygone era for all I know .

Something like an imported CNC mill or lathe might be good for a small job shop to the tune of 60 g's .However for one of stuff the average good machinest will have it done on a good manual machine before a CNC guy figured out how to get the damned thing even programmed
 

paragonbuilder

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Perfect timing for this thread Deets! I'm looking at this mill right now. image.jpgimage.jpgAnyone have any thoughts on it?
 

awol

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That's a really good mill, much better than any asian made machine. That sounded a little high, but then a look at the tooling makes it sound a little better. The B and S #9 collets are still fairly common.
If your in the market for a small mill, keep an eye out for a Hardinge, Linley, South Bend, or Atlas.
 

paragonbuilder

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I've been scouring CL for a long time now. This seems like a good deal with the vertical and horizontal capabilities and the tooling. Not that I have any idea how to use it yet...
 

huskihl

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I've been scouring CL for a long time now. This seems like a good deal with the vertices and horizontal capabilities and the tooling. Not that I have any idea how to use it yet...
Sounds like you might be coming down with a case of MAD?
 
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