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Moparmyway

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FWIW that Monarch 10EE I have will cut about half a thou taper in 18" using a collett with a dead center in the tail stock .I figured that's good enough .
That is pretty good !
Have you ever made a pass into the jaws of your chuck to true it up ?
 

Red97

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That is pretty good !
Have you ever made a pass into the jaws of your chuck to true it up ?

The 10ee were and are still the top of the line when they were new 1940's. Most of them were used on nuclear applications, turning plutonium etc. Certified to something like.00000x or greater when they rolled out of the shop.

Had a starting price of 4500 in 1940. Very nice well built machines.
 
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Deets066

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My Chinese lathe has .001 run out on the collet chuck.....that's as good as I've been able to get it. The collet chuck is a good one.......must be in the headstock spindle.
My bro bought a cheap tool less collet chuck made in Taiwan, it had .006 runout. Back in the box it went
 

Deets066

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Since we sent that chuck back I've just been useing whatever collet I need
 

Moparmyway

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My Chinese lathe has .001 run out on the collet chuck.....that's as good as I've been able to get it. The collet chuck is a good one.......must be in the headstock spindle.
Could be a burr sitting in the threads of the spindle to the back plate, if you bedded in the collet chuck ...........

I just got an independant 4 jaw from Shars ............. great chuck and a great price. I get anything dialed down to .0000 very easily.
I will be getting a centering 4 jaw from them soon, just have to get a few more tools for basics, and customize my quick change to fit the compound
 

super3

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Like I said........my chucks ain't that great. lol


lol.....I looked for a long time for a good one. Missed a few NIB for cheap, cussed a lot, kept looking.

Finally looked at the right time.
 

Mastermind

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Then to show how it fits.....

IMG_3333.JPG

I made this spacer because the spindle threads bottomed out in the chuck. After I turned it I sent it to Wiggs and he surface ground it at his job......

IMG_3334.JPG

IMG_3335.JPG
IMG_3336.JPG
 

Al Smith

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No,in answer to did I ever true the lathe chuck jaws .The Monarch has two Cushman precision chucks,8" and 5" three jaw .These have non serrated hard jaws ,reversable and would need to be ground because the jaws are hard as twice hammered hell .In addition they can be adjusted for runout .I can dial them in very closely .

One thing about a pin drive like the D1-3 mount of the Monarch .The master jaws are numbered as well as the bolt ons plus the pins plus the cam locks .As long as you match everything up you can change chucks and they will almost always run true .I've only dialed them in once and that was with a precision ground rod 4" out from the jaws to less than a thou TIR .--close enough for what I do .

In addition to those three jaws I have a Sunnen 4" precision,Craftsman( not Sears and Roebuck) 8" 4 jaw, three face plates .A Hardinge Jorgens collet chuck,A monarch draw bar collett chuck.

I also have an old Boye and Emmes 20 by 48 that is over 100 years old .I must have a dozen chucks for that one .One a 16" 4 jaw I cannot even lift and I've never used it .That old bone shaker weighs over 8,000 pounds .I would not attempt to carve out saw parts on it but it can turn the brake drums of a semi or dump truck with no problem .It normally runs with a 12" 3 jaw.
 

Moparmyway

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After I turned it I sent it to Wiggs and he surface ground it at his job......
And there is where your .001 is probably coming from. It's important to have any chuck bedded to the spindle on the lathe. Wiggs could have ground it perfectly true, but it wont be true to your machine, it needs a final pass with your carriage to true it to your lathe
 

Moparmyway

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I don't see any possible way to cut it like I've done on my chuck back plates, or my face plates.
You may need to turn a new spacer in your lathe ........ I certainly am not a seasoned machinist, but I read everything I could and asked several guys with mountains of experience, and they all said the same thing ........ Whatever you put on your spindle MUST be bedded to it with the carriage from that machine, if you want to begin to get runout minimized
 
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