Machining for port work

[Deets066]

Just my $.02 here .... but I've never seen anyone on these boards do their machining on a mill. Not saying it can't be done, just that we've never seen it.

If you (care or want) to go to Another Site, search up some of Randy's old threads (I think some may have videos) on how he does his machining. IIRC, he has a bunch of mandrels set up in various diameters (made of thermonuclear nylon) to insert into the cyl and chuck up in his lathe. With these he cuts the base. To cut the squish, he has a jig set up to attach the cyl to the headstock and he does the cutting with a boring bar.

Good luck. I hope this thread keeps going ... love to read about this stuff.

I remember those pics he had, I would just as soon see them posted on this site instead of going back there. @Mastermind

His methods work well for him on a lathe, but I need to come up with an efficient way to do them on a mill. It can be done

 

[drf256]

He has a rotary table.

 

[Red97]

https://m.mscdirect.com/mobileweb/product_detail?id=06768139&hasRestrictedParts=false

This ^^

You can find complete kits on ebay reasonable.

I would just use it for the 4 jaw. Lock the table in the best indicated position then shim to fine tune it.

Once it is lined up, reach in with a bar in that head cut the squish. Drop the table down install a short cutter and cut the base. You may have to make a L shaped holder to cut over the side, but the jug stays stationery the whole time.

 

[Deets066]

I have a boring head just like that, the cutters I have for them are not wide enough to cut the whole squish. I would think putting the cutter in the center of the head and turning the jug on my rotary table would be better?

Never thought about leaving it stationary before

 

[Deets066]

https://m.mscdirect.com/mobileweb/product_detail?id=06768139&hasRestrictedParts=false

This ^^

You can find complete kits on ebay reasonable.

I would just use it for the 4 jaw. Lock the table in the best indicated position then shim to fine tune it.

Once it is lined up, reach in with a bar in that head cut the squish. Drop the table down install a short cutter and cut the base. You may have to make a L shaped holder to cut over the side, but the jug stays stationery the whole time.

So, shimming the chuck would be ok?

I can get it within .006 by bringing the quill down to the base of the jug and clamping while holding a little pressure on it. It was just getting the last bit squared up.

Shimming under the chuck would make life much easier

 

[Red97]

I have a boring head just like that, the cutters I have for them are not wide enough to cut the whole squish. I would think putting the cutter in the center of the head and turning the jug on my rotary table would be better?

Never thought about leaving it stationary before

The boring head should have travel to it. Hold the ring while it turns to increase cut diameter. Seems it should have enough to do the squish especially.

So, shimming the chuck would be ok?

I can get it within .006 by bringing the quill down to the base of the jug and clamping while holding a little pressure on it. It was just getting the last bit squared up.

Shimming under the chuck would make life much easier

I would install the jug in the chuck like you have pictured. Use 4 clamps 1 inline with each jaw and shim under each clamp. Until you have it aligned.

 

[awol]

The best method for using a mill would be to clamp the jug directly to the table using blocks and clamps in the intake and exhaust ports, and maybe a couple side fins. True it up using a torpedo level on base, and center using table travel.
I have done this on a small Echo jug with good results, but now have my lathe dialed in so it gets used. I also did not have a large mill, only a small Deckel.

 

[Deets066]

The boring head should have travel to it. Hold the ring while it turns to increase cut diameter. Seems it should have enough to do the squish especially.

This is what I have. What do you mean by hold the ring while it turns to increase cut diameter

 

[Deets066]

The best method for using a mill would be to clamp the jug directly to the table using blocks and clamps in the intake and exhaust ports, and maybe a couple side fins. True it up using a torpedo level on base, and center using table travel.
I have done this on a small Echo jug with good results, but now have my lathe dialed in so it gets used. I also did not have a large mill, only a small Deckel.

That would work on most jugs, but I have a 394 to cut in the near future and need it on the rotary table

 

[Red97]

View attachment 13005

This is what I have. What do you mean by hold the ring while it turns to increase cut diameter

Sorry, I lied.

Meant a facing head, gave the wrong link. They index while spinning.

 

[Red97]

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Enco-boring-and-facing-head-R8-shank-/151974411757?nav=SEARCH

That ring at the top. You hold it to engage the feed. Let go to stop.

 

[Gunn]

You could build a fixture that allows you drop the jug inside, and clamp on the sides of the cylinder mounting surface.

Then you'd just need to level it off and use a face mill.

 

[jmssaws]

View attachment 12983

Here is a 660 jug in an independent 4 jaw chuck. I also have a rotary table to attach the chuck to. What would be the easiest way to clamp the jug? Right now the grooves in the jaws lock into the fins making it unable to level up.

I've been thinking of making a universal plate to set jugs on with slots to bolt the jug to. In order to do the base and squish at the same time I thought about tapping the mounting holes in the base so I wouldn't have anything stickin out past the base. Thoughts?

What is your plan with that bullet deets?
Gonna build a 064 hybrid with it? Husky piston?

Sweet mill also

 

[Magic_Man]

You could build a fixture that allows you drop the jug inside, and clamp on the sides of the cylinder mounting surface.

Then you'd just need to level it off and use a face mill.

I see this too, a fixture with a base plate like Randy's . Then a cage with four adjustment screws that come in from the sides and land on the side of the base. Or for even more holding power/stability two screws on each side/flat.

 

[jmssaws]

Have you looked for 54 and 56mm bits?

Be pretty simple and fast to clamp the 94 cylinder level and run a 56mm bit down its throat.

 

[jmssaws]

 

[Redfin]

Any reason you couldnt tig the top of the jug to a block of aluminum and clamp the block?

 

[Deets066]

View attachment 13019

Believe those are 54mm long

 

[Deets066]

Any reason you couldnt tig the top of the jug to a block of aluminum and clamp the block?

For every jug? There would have to be a better way

 

[Gunn]

That's probably 56mm long not diameter. You'd have a hard time finding an end mill in that diameter especially for that price.