Machining for port work

[jmssaws]

Like randy said a few thou is plenty

 

[Deets066]

But if your mandrel fit "tight" would it be fine to flush it up like you said before? That shouldn't scratch the plateing and and should be sufficient but just not sure about all of it yet cuz I haven't had any hands on experience with it yet. But it's coming

 

[Red97]

I shoot for .005-7 undersized for the mandrel. So I can rock the jug a bit to get the edge.

I also make a wood sanding mandrel .001-2 under to finish the band.

 

[Deets066]

I shoot for .005-7 undersized for the mandrel. So I can rock the jug a bit to get the edge.

I also make a wood sanding mandrel .001-2 under to finish the band.

Is the corner on your cutter at 90 degrees? What keeps you from getting into the plateing while cutting?

 

[Red97]

Slot is cut to put a 3* angle on the tool bit for a nice cutting edge. Also so I don't have to grind the tool bit. Jut cut it in half and install.

 

[Deets066]

Slot is cut to put a 3* angle on the tool bit for a nice cutting edge. Also so I don't have to grind the tool bit. Jut cut it in half and install.

Very nice.

What holds the cutter in place?

 

[Red97]

You can see the way the tool bit is ground from factory. Only the top edge and the top point will make contact. The leading edge of the tool bit is on center of the bore. Obviously that tool bit needs to be cut before use. A set screw holds the tool bit.

 

[fordf150]

 

[MG2186]

this works also if you don't have access to mill the slot


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[Deets066]

You can see the way the tool bit is ground from factory. Only the top edge and the top point will make contact. The leading edge of the tool bit is on center of the bore. Obviously that tool bit needs to be cut before use. A set screw holds the tool bit.

So that notch on the side that I'm seeing is where the set screw goes in?

 

[Red97]

So that notch on the side that I'm seeing is where the set screw goes in?

Correct.

 

[mdavlee]

So that notch on the side that I'm seeing is where the set screw goes in?

Mine have two screws that I made. The others have 3. Cut the hss on an angle and you can flip it over or around and use 4 sides that way.

 

[Moparmyway]

I think I'm finished machining, time for port work

 

[Deets066]

I think I'm finished machining, time for port workView attachment 15194View attachment 15195View attachment 15196View attachment 15197View attachment 15198

Nice work Kev, shows how much work goes into making one of these saws really run

 

[drf256]

Very nice work Mope

 

[paragonbuilder]

Awesome! Cool to see your notes to go along with it!


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[Moparmyway]

Nice work Kev, shows how much work goes into making one of these saws really run

It could be a turd, but really run is what I hope for

Very nice work Mope

Thanks Doc !

Awesome! Cool to see your notes to go along with it!


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Saves lots of questions........, numbers were quick, without rings.......... Will get final numbers after port work

 

[GoBigBlue1984]

Why do you think +/- .001 is close enough?

.001 either way is overkill here. I'm all for precision, hell its my job. Many times to .0002. If I'm only talkin' a thou or two on saw mods that's close enough.

 

[Al Smith]

I can hit within a thou .Two tenths highly unlikely . I work with stuff that are in microns but they have computers .All I have is a junk yard dogs brain ,what part I didn't kill off from my younger years .

 

[GoBigBlue1984]

Deets066,

Are you trying to "plunge" the cutter into the squish band?
Using the whole width of the cutter to cut the band?

If that is the case no "bar" is going to help.

You have to start in the center and feed it to the wall just like cutting on a lathe. Prepare for lots of broken carbide tips doing it by hand.

Best I can tell, from your video, you could set the depth of cut say.005-.010 with the cutter in the chamber feed it till it takes a cut in the band.
Spin the head till you feel no resistance, turn the Allen wrench a bit towards the wall of the jug. Repeat those steps until the band is cut. It will probably tear up quite a few inserts, and be a long slow process.

I don't see any other good way of doing it, also that bar you posted should work using the method I described.

This is a 372 I recently cut for David. I use an 82 degree diamond carbide insert. Yes, Red is correct, start from the center of the bore and feed outwards. Once indicated in I use a piece of paper towards the face of the cylinder and feed outwards until my insert Just touches the piece of paper. This is obviously done with the spindle off. I zero that out and once I touch off on my squish band I feed .005 past my zero and I take .010 DOC until my desired spec is met. Takes 10-15 minutes if that.