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Let's talk race chain

QuickDrawSaw

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My advice would be to start with the basics and what that will do, then add to what you learn, a lightly worked over chain done by someone who understands what they are doing will be faster than a way worked over chain by someone who doesn't. I don't know you so I'm saying all this based on the picture's you presented and what I've seen work, although I don't build race chains :).
Start with a stock chain, time it in a lice long log or cant. Next square it up with mild angles, then time it again. Make the angle a bit more aggressive and then time it again. At that point you can adjust the rakers to the saw/wood or take the cutters back a little further if the rakers are a little low for the aggressiveness of the chain in that wood with that saw, or try an 8 pin sprocket.
Once you get a nice chain then you can do another one the same way except start with the cutter a bit further back(a bit in front of the rear rivet) and you can add the chassis work. The chassis work will add a very small bit to the speed of the chain in the beginning stages of your work.
It's good to understand what effects the chassis work or changes you are making to the cutter will make as they many work together and others can help make a chain faster without making other changes.

Notice what is said here :rolleyes:.
Start with the basics and what that will do, then add to what you learn.
Thanks for the advise. I'm very new at modifying chains. Usually just grind *s-wordty homeowner chain at work. This is the first time attempting this type of work. Order a triangular file from Stihl but its on backorder so I won't be trying square filing anytime soon. Definitely going to re read this thread like 50 times hahahaha.
 

Wolverine

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So talking “race” chain.. the top plate angle can be steepened to say 35-40 in real soft wood. Why can’t this theory be applied to the side plate as well? It is doing the hard work. This vid shows what I’m getting at, ff to 12:40.


Wouldn’t a bit more forward lean on that side plate one, create more self feed (which I know it does w/ a work chain) and two, reduce the amount of pressure applied to the powerhead in turn reducing the drag from bar to chain contact? :cunaooooo: My feeble head is thinking of it possibly creating small lift tendency due to the angle of the dangle. :roto2nuse: Am I out in left field, watching the butterflies?


This is for an 80cc and a ported 94cc btw.
188C2AB0-E88B-4C30-8812-F54A5E881DBF.jpeg 5462F03B-9F97-4A43-BA67-F45F249B8CF2.jpeg
 

chipper1

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So talking “race” chain.. the top plate angle can be steepened to say 35-40 in real soft wood. Why can’t this theory be applied to the side plate as well? It is doing the hard work. This vid shows what I’m getting at, ff to 12:40.


Wouldn’t a bit more forward lean on that side plate one, create more self feed (which I know it does w/ a work chain) and two, reduce the amount of pressure applied to the powerhead in turn reducing the drag from bar to chain contact? :cunaooooo: My feeble head is thinking of it possibly creating small lift tendency due to the angle of the dangle. :roto2nuse: Am I out in left field, watching the butterflies?


This is for an 80cc and a ported 94cc btw.
View attachment 281940 View attachment 281941
13:19-13:50, you'll cut your face off :facepalm:.
 

Deets066

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So talking “race” chain.. the top plate angle can be steepened to say 35-40 in real soft wood. Why can’t this theory be applied to the side plate as well? It is doing the hard work. This vid shows what I’m getting at, ff to 12:40.


Wouldn’t a bit more forward lean on that side plate one, create more self feed (which I know it does w/ a work chain) and two, reduce the amount of pressure applied to the powerhead in turn reducing the drag from bar to chain contact? :cunaooooo: My feeble head is thinking of it possibly creating small lift tendency due to the angle of the dangle. :roto2nuse: Am I out in left field, watching the butterflies?


This is for an 80cc and a ported 94cc btw.
View attachment 281940 View attachment 281941

74AF6C8F-E897-434D-A91E-661A3CD9DF93.jpeg
173A86B5-A811-4EA0-B3E4-8659A93EA6F0.jpeg

I’ve tried excessive forward lean, just wasn’t as fast or as friendly on the up cut.
 

Dolkitafreak

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So talking “race” chain.. the top plate angle can be steepened to say 35-40 in real soft wood. Why can’t this theory be applied to the side plate as well? It is doing the hard work. This vid shows what I’m getting at, ff to 12:40.


Wouldn’t a bit more forward lean on that side plate one, create more self feed (which I know it does w/ a work chain) and two, reduce the amount of pressure applied to the powerhead in turn reducing the drag from bar to chain contact? :cunaooooo: My feeble head is thinking of it possibly creating small lift tendency due to the angle of the dangle. :roto2nuse: Am I out in left field, watching the butterflies?


This is for an 80cc and a ported 94cc btw.
View attachment 281940 View attachment 281941
I contemplate the same thing. So forward lean causes them to self feed better and pull more aggressively. Would lots of lean while maintaining a high raker to decrease chatter and grabbiness make for a fast chain? Sounds like some testing is in order. Issue is, every wood and saw is different, *f-word.
 

RI Chevy

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Do up some vids of before and after. Take a photo of a cutter. I'd be interested to see for the good of the order. [emoji16]
 

Deets066

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Forward lean helps self feed, that is because the side plate is grabbing the fibers, pulling, then severing. A less aggressive side plate cuts through them at first contact.

would be interesting to see what happens with high rakers.
 

Hedgerow

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Forward lean helps self feed, that is because the side plate is grabbing the fibers, pulling, then severing. A less aggressive side plate cuts through them at first contact.

would be interesting to see what happens with high rakers.

I'm just not a huge fan of excessive lean. But it do feed itself..
 
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