That's awesome.Turned out pretty good. Lot more consistent than my old Method of doing a few at a time.
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Zoom in on that cutter real close and you'll see the gap between the rails and the heel of the cutter. That's how the Oregon AntiVibe works, the one barb arrow between the rivets is the trademark.Stoning is sideplate of cutter only.
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Looks wore to me, being that it’s been run a bit and still a lot of cutter. With a full cutter it pivots back when in the cut and all of the force is on the back rivet. I’d lay money that a new one sits flat.When this chain is at full rpm the gap under the heel gets wider when the loop tightens up.
Same happens when you add extra tension on the chain when filing the chain on the saw.
The chain looks like it may be slack in the pic but still shows gap.
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Well Deets I'll lay money down that a new chain won't lay flat to the rails.Looks wore to me, being that it’s been run a bit and still a lot of cutter. With a full cutter it pivots back when in the cut and all of the force is on the back rivet. I’d lay money that a new one sits flat.
Maybe run it first? Make a few cuts, stretch it out, then reasess?
Hey Willard, thanks for the share of info. You will not see my loops at a local race event (will only get run at a gtg). I'm just a firewood hack having fun with a file. I can't really afford to seek out old, getting rare models of the bestest chain. I have to work with what I have. I do appreciate your wisdom. If I'd ever get serious, betcha azz I'd heed your advice.It's all in the details.
Here's 2 pics of the most sought after race chain . The Stihl 46RST High Tooth.
Take a look at the bottom of the cutters under the rivets.
No consumer anti vibration rated profile on this chain.
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