Frustrating chain performance...

[DrewUth]

I am by no means skilled when sharpening my own chains, but I use the guides that clip onto files, touch them up with every tank of fuel and only mess with the rakers every 5-6 filings, using a raker gauge. I take care to keep the chains clean and sharp, and pay close attention to the angles on the cutters, so that they are my friend and not my foe when cutting haha.

Recently, I have been banging my head against the wall with a few loops of 3/8" chain that cut crooked. I know that cutter length is not the determining factor here, but instead this is due to the rakers...at least thats what I have read? I can say that my cutters are not all the same size...but I file the rakers with care to keep them as close to the same as possible. The bar on the saw is not the issue either, as I put on a loop of brand new chain the other day and it cut straight (the oregon chain with the "bent over" rakers...I had hung it on the wall as it doesnt really cut as aggressive as I want it to). I want the chains to cut on the aggressive side, but I need them to cut straight...all my firewood is crooked and its embarrassing!

Ideas on how to correct these loops? What am I mucking up? I have 3-4 loops that have plenty of cutter life left, but I am ready to replace them out of frustration...

EDIT- I am using oregon LPX chain, I realize I left that out.

 

[RI Chevy]

Check the rails on your bar.

 

[Redfin]

Since you have verified your guides are equal I would lean more towards the bar being worn. A new chain may have thicker or longer drivers that help keep the chain straight in the groove.

Do you have another bar to try your older chains on?

 

[DrewUth]

I mentioned in the post that the bar isnt the issue as I mounted a brand new chain that I had not touched on it, and it cut straight. It is a low time bar- less than 2 hours of use on it.

The guides are as equal as one of those cheap stamped metal gauges allow for....any ideas on how to accurately measure each guide to check them?

 

[Redfin]

Are the top plate angles on your cutters equal?

 

[Moparmyway]

If the bar isn't the issue, it could be a possibility of the other two things

1. You are getting one side of your cutters sharper than the other. Usually it's because you are more comfortable sharpening one side and struggle through the other

2. You stated that you are trying to keep all of your rakers even. This won't work with uneven length cutters. The longer cutters will take more bite than the shorter cutters, if both have the same size raker. You should be able to see if the LH or the RH cutters are commonly longer or shorter. If they are, it probably goes back to your filing, unless you're hitting rocks, nails, or dirt

 

[Redfin]

If the bar isn't the issue, it could be a possibility of the other two things

1. You are getting one side of your cutters sharper than the other. Usually it's because you are more comfortable sharpening one side and struggle through the other

2. You stated that you are trying to keep all of your rakers even. This won't work with uneven length cutters. The longer cutters will take more bite than the shorter cutters, if both have the same size raker. You should be able to see if the LH or the RH cutters are commonly longer or shorter. If they are, it probably goes back to your filing, unless you're hitting rocks, nails, or dirt

Howdy Kev.

 

[Wolverine]

I know that cutter length is not the determining factor here, but instead this is due to the rakers...at least thats what I have read? I can say that my cutters are not all the same size..

In my experience, cutter length differences made me cut crooked. When I started heating w/ wood, I learned to hand file with the Husky style guide. Works great but I eventually started to go crooked. A little research and I found that varying cutter length was the culprit. So I bought a Timberline.

This jig makes every cutter the exact same length and angle. After using it I realized how far off I actually was. It had me cutting perfectly straight again. I use one of these for the rakers.

 

[Moparmyway]

Howdy Kev.

Howdy John !!
Day off today, on the couch with 102.7 and still miserable

 

[Redfin]

Dang Man, sorry.

 

[Moparmyway]

Different cutter lengths can cut straight, if the rakers are sized for each cutter.

 

[Moparmyway]

Dang Man, sorry.

Me too bud !
I was ready to call it quits yesterday, don't even remember driving home.

Good news is that I've dropped 13 pounds in 24 hours

 

[jakethesnake]

I have a crappy harbor freight grinder for just the reason you mention. I can't justify getting an Oregon right now as I'm pretty handy with a file. The rakers need to be done with a guide to get them right. Those teeth really need to be the same length also or you'll play hell trying to get one to cut straight

 

[merc_man]

I would start by trying ro get all the cuttwr as close to the same length as possible. Then check rakers after that. Also start with a new file so you know it cutting propper.

If nothing seems to work may be worth getting the sharpened on a maching to true them all back up. Be cheaper then new chains.

Sent from my SM-J320W8 using Tapatalk

 

[merc_man]

Might also be worth buying a cheap electric chain sharpener for truing chains up yourself. There cheap enough at harbor freight

Sent from my SM-J320W8 using Tapatalk

 

[DrewUth]

If the bar isn't the issue, it could be a possibility of the other two things

1. You are getting one side of your cutters sharper than the other. Usually it's because you are more comfortable sharpening one side and struggle through the other

2. You stated that you are trying to keep all of your rakers even. This won't work with uneven length cutters. The longer cutters will take more bite than the shorter cutters, if both have the same size raker. You should be able to see if the LH or the RH cutters are commonly longer or shorter. If they are, it probably goes back to your filing, unless you're hitting rocks, nails, or dirt

THIS! I hadn't even thought of that! Without a doubt, cutters for one side are generally longer than the others. When I first started filing my own chains, I made an effort to make them even, but later slacked off because I felt that I was essentially wasting chain life by shortening otherwise healthy cutters unnecessarily. But now that I think about it, as the cutter gets shorter, it takes a bit bigger bite- right?

In my experience, cutter length differences made me cut crooked. When I started heating w/ wood, I learned to hand file with the Husky style guide. Works great but I eventually started to go crooked. A little research and I found that varying cutter length was the culprit. So I bought a Timberline.

This jig makes every cutter the exact same length and angle. After using it I realized how far off I actually was. It had me cutting perfectly straight again. I use one of these for the rakers.

I have salivated over the timberline sharpeners for over a year now. I might have to beg the wife to let me buy one. I like that raker guide you have there, I will see if I can find one. Mine is pretty hammered anyway from the file rubbing on it.

 

[DrewUth]

Different cutter lengths can cut straight, if the rakers are sized for each cutter.

Can you elaborate on this a bit- the raker gauge I have been using (photo attached) sits on the cutters obviously, so I just assumed it was sizing them correctly...but now that I realize the cutter length affects how it sits and all the cutter lengths not being equal, it may actually be producing pretty erratic results.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

I have seen a chain that someone ground all of the cutters off on one side... well over 50% gone. Then adjusted the drags accordingly. Saw cut straight. It was a demo a dealer had at a logging show. So.. they can be made to go straight.


That being said... if the saw goes left... the left side cutters are not cutting enough and the right side cutters are doing more. Work on the left side.

IF it is going to the right going through the log, work on the right side cutters.

Figuring out this problem is huge in understanding chain and working to better filing in the future. I've been down this road several times myself... it's frustrating.

 

[Redfin]

View attachment 53368

Can you elaborate on this a bit- the raker gauge I have been using (photo attached) sits on the cutters obviously, so I just assumed it was sizing them correctly...but now that I realize the cutter length affects how it sits and all the cutter lengths not being equal, it may actually be producing pretty erratic results.

I dont like that style guide because on a full comp chain it may not be resting on the cutter you are trying to set the guide for.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Gauge/Rakers/Drags need to be adjusted on exponential rate. New the tooth needs 0.025" difference like your gauge. At 50% is may need 0.030" . As you get to the witness marks.. it may be as much as 0.040" to get it to cut like a new chain. It has to do with the geometry the cutter works with that is often referred to as progressive filing.

The standard Oregon drop gauge works if all teeth are equal. Once the teeth are unequal all bets are off with that style gauge. I like the Husky style that was pictured above. It seems to be more progressive as opposed to fixed 0.025".