Frustrating chain performance...

[Jimmy in NC]

Filing chain is one of those things that you need to find what works for you. It took ME a long time to find what worked for me. I tried different guides, grinders, etc. Found what I like and I get consistently repeatable results that are good enough for me. Most try several things to find what they like best.

 

[DrewUth]

Ok, so related question- when calling the cutters left or right, are you going by the corner of the cutter or the open side? As in...are the left side cutters those with their corner on the left, or their opening on the left? This would help me to decide which to adjust.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Ok, so related question- when calling the cutters left or right, are you going by the corner of the cutter or the open side? As in...are the left side cutters those with their corner on the left, or their opening on the left? This would help me to decide which to adjust.

I think what was inplied is to work on the side that it is leaving behind. You want that side to catch-up to the other. Would agree with everything Jimmy said and the others. It's a game of how to get comfy with a repeatable method you like. Chains also run smoother muc cooler with even teeth.

 

[DrewUth]

I think what was inplied is to work on the side that it is leaving behind. You want that side to catch-up to the other. Would agree with everything Jimmy said and the others. It's a game of how to get comfy with a repeatable method you like. Chains also run smoother muc cooler with even teeth.

Right on, for sure- but I am not exactly clear on which cutters are which haha, embarrassingly enough. Thats what I was asking above.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

When looking at the chain from the top, pointy bit forward, that's the side I refer to.. hang on .. pic coming.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

 

[DrewUth]

Excellent, thanks! That's the clarification I needed. Simple I know, I just never really knew.

 

[Moparmyway]

Psst .......
It's now 2017


Just about ready to fire that Husky. She got a new OEM P&C, and both the piston and cylinder went on a crash weight loss program !
Thank you again !!

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Something to remember. If the chain cutters are doing as they should, self feeding, etc, they do not need much of a guide bar. I have a 20" bar I had been running .050" chain on that is .063 gauge. While putting it up on a shelf the other day I realized it said 1.6mm and not 1.3mm. It's just for testing saws with but it proved to me that the chain does most of the driving.

Madsen's has an article that states early on most crooked cutting issues stem from chain and not the bar. The bar really only comes into play if adding feed pressure and then rail height becomes critical. (It does more than that but for simplistic argument's sake keep that in mind.)

 

[Lightning Performance]

That is a busy mans desk.

 

[DrewUth]

I too have "a busy man's desk" haha


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[Jimmy in NC]

Psst .......
It's now 2017


Just about ready to fire that Husky. She got a new OEM P&C, and both the piston and cylinder went on a crash weight loss program !
Thank you again !!

There are plenty of doodling pages left on that pad. I hate being in my office.. therefor I rarely am in here. I just changed the wall calendar from Oct 2016 to a new one for 2017 yesterday.

I missed a 346 and just yesterday got another one. I haven't even fueled it yet.. may have heard of it before though.. its been called "Stitch Maker" and has some elusive GFY 346 spikes on it.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

That is a busy mans desk.

I too have "a busy man's desk" haha


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This office is a disaster. I do too many different things. My truck is worse. I asked for a crew cab with an 8' service bed next time.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Something to remember. If the chain cutters are doing as they should, self feeding, etc, they do not need much of a guide bar. I have a 20" bar I had been running .050" chain on that is .063 gauge. While putting it up on a shelf the other day I realized it said 1.6mm and not 1.3mm. It's just for testing saws with but it proved to me that the chain does most of the driving.

Madsen's has an article that states early on most crooked cutting issues stem from chain and not the bar. The bar really only comes into play if adding feed pressure and then rail height becomes critical. (It does more than that but for simplistic argument's sake keep that in mind.)

I'd like to continue that thought... The bar really only comes into play if adding feed pressure and then rail height becomes critical." or when you run uneven cutters (one side shorter) on cutting chain it wipes ur bar on one side only. Then, run new chain and get soo so PO'ed lol.

 

[CR888]

Pics of chain in question (both sides) & maybe we can diagnose the issue rather than a guess. I'd be interested in seeing the wear indicators on the underside of cutters on both sides.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

A quick and probably poor video I shot this morning. Its a quick little tip on how I check cutter eveness.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Also... I find these help a lot when working on chains.

I am only 35 and have laser corrected vision...but I find these help a lot and are only +2.00. Do not mind the lights...these were given to me. They are available with no lights for a few bucks and safety shades are pretty important in a shop.

 

[DrewUth]

I will try and get some pics of the chain loops tonight. I will be out in the shop after work with all of this extra knowledge hoping to clean some of them up and get them cutting better.

Thanks so much for all the input! The magnifying eyewear is a great idea as well, I am gonna hit CVS or something today to see if I can get a pair. I wear contacts and my vision is pretty fine close up, but even with a good lamp I do feel I am straining to see the good details I need when doing fine work like this.

 

[Philbert]

I know that cutter length is not the determining factor here, but instead this is due to the rakers...at least thats what I have read?

As noted, there are a few things that can affect this. In general, you want all of the cutters on a loop the same: same length, same angles (all), same depth gauge setting, etc.

Ok, so related question- when calling the cutters left or right, are you going by the corner of the cutter or the open side?

With the chain mounted in the chainsaw, the cutters on your Left side, as you are holding the saw in the cutting position, are the 'Left' cutters.

Its a quick little tip on how I check cutter eveness.

Simple and effective. Will also show if your top plate angles are different between the sides (common on hand filed chain).

There are lots of ways to sharpen a chain. Whatever you use, focus on the results, not the method. In other words, don't just count the number of strokes that you take on each tooth, but examine them when done to see if they are the same length and same angles. Often, people are stronger on one side than the other, so they either need to adjust their effort on one side, or compensate with the number of file strokes.

Examine each cutter with good light, and maybe some type of magnifier: are you getting clean metal on both the top and side cutting edges? Can you see light reflecting off of the finished edge (it should not on a sharp edge)?

Take your time and get each cutter to look the way you want it. Worry about speed later.

Philbert

 

[merc_man]

If you you have a new chain. Study that and use that as you goal for your end results. Once you understand how the chain works it will be easy.

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