First time porting

[merc_man]

Yep. That tube will last you about 10 years

Probly dry up befor i use it up.

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[huskihl]

Probly dry up befor i use it up.

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Nope. Mines 2 years old and like the day I bought it

 

[XP_Slinger]

not sure im gonna touch the upper transfers yet. Might be a little advanced for my first time. Gotta do more research on them first to undderstand how exactly they work.

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That's the right approach. I ported my saw in incremental steps in an attempt to feel how my changes were effecting the performance. Not an exact science, but it made for good notes in documenting changes to ports. Thankfully I didn't over do it anywhere and turn my saw into a dog.

Have fun and keep us posted!

 

[merc_man]

Well what ya think. i i did a little grinding on the exhaust port. I stihl gotta put a little bevle on the inside. And sand the port to smooth it out.

Should i open up the outside where muf attaches a little more?

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[merc_man]

First muff modd too. She gonna be one noisy sum beech. I cant wait.

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[David Young]

trace the exhaust.

you want the sides as symmetrical as possible. the consequence is the ring will slam into the pin and the pin ends up coming through the top of the piston.

 

[David Young]

Also way to go on jumping in with both feet.

you can smooth out some of the bumps in the exhaust with a sanding drum, you don't have to go crazy just knock down some of the bumps.

 

[merc_man]

Also way to go on jumping in with both feet.

you can smooth out some of the bumps in the exhaust with a sanding drum, you don't have to go crazy just knock down some of the bumps.

I will retrace on paper and check. I been sandind it some with a peace of sandpaper wrapped arround a pencil. What a pain lol. Got it not too bad so far.

Thanks for the tips.

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[merc_man]

I will retrace on paper and check. I been sandind it some with a peace of sandpaper wrapped arround a pencil. What a pain lol. Got it not too bad so far.

Thanks for the tips.

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Wont get a chance till tomorrow to trace and post a pic.

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[czar800]

I've used brake line with a slot cut in it and a cordless drill.

 

[merc_man]

I thought about trying that. Didnt know if it would gouge it. Might give that a try

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[merc_man]

trace the exhaust.

you want the sides as symmetrical as possible. the consequence is the ring will slam into the pin and the pin ends up coming through the top of the piston.

I think i got it pretty close. Just got to put bevel on and clean it out.

I never did anything to i take side. The ring end are pretty close to the opening.

What do you guys do to make sure ya get all the alluminum peaces out. I dont have a parts washer but my neighbor does if ya recomend it.

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[beaglebriar]

Brake cleaner and compressed air works good.

 

[merc_man]

I used compressed air and couple clean rags and lots more air. Got the cylinder back on. The ring pass by the port pretty good. Dont see the move out or feel any bindinh. Should i leak test when all back togeather.

Im getting darn excited.

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[merc_man]

For muffler should i close factory port with the short pipe i put on?It aftermarket and wide open. Nothing inside.

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[lwhaples]

I'd leave the factory port as is. Is it running yet?Ha

 

[merc_man]

Uh oh. I went a little deep at the trasfer case and got an air leak. I tried putting the gasket glue on it and gonna try set till tomorrow after work. Hope i didnt bugger it. If it dont hold i may try jb weld as a last ditch effort. Other wise it will be a lesson learned.

Anyone else ever do that and any ideas for fixing

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[jmssaws]

I will retrace on paper and check. I been sandind it some with a peace of sandpaper wrapped arround a pencil. What a pain lol. Got it not too bad so far.

Thanks for the tips.

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Sandpaper on a pencil or I use a flat file with sandpaper around it,it will make the port flat and smooth. A 7/32 file works good too.

Your grinding looks good,it's work to be proud of. Should be a runner.

The thick pipe you used on the muffler will help with noise just don't let it stick out farther than the dogs.

 

[wcorey]

Uh oh. I went a little deep at the trasfer case and got an air leak. I tried putting the gasket glue on it and gonna try set till tomorrow after work. Hope i didnt bugger it. If it dont hold i may try jb weld as a last ditch effort. Other wise it will be a lesson learned.

Anyone else ever do that and any ideas for fixing

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Assuming I understand what you did, not to worry, that's pretty typical, would probably go with the jb weld though.
When I go particularly deep cutting squish and need to raise the transfers a lot, I more or less expect to bust through somewhere.
Worst place for me is the upper exhaust side corner (transfers) when trying to flatten the roof and get way back in there.
IIRC treemonkey will build some of them up with epoxy beforehand with the expectation of going through, easier to do before there's a hole.
I've tig welded first while there's still some thickness to work with, really tough to do after they're eggshell thin.

 

[merc_man]

Well i think its almost ready. I presure checked it and the only bubbles are from the decompresion valve. Gonna pick up a plug today and retest tomorrow. Iv never used it but must have pushed it in when working on it and it wont seal up now. Dont know why a 50 cc saw needs one any how.

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