Ferguson tractor Z134 valve job

[FergusonTO35]

Any idea on how I should stagger the ring gaps? My service manual doesn't say anything about it. It has 3 compression rings and an oil ring. Maybe just clock them as far apart as practical?

 

[FergusonTO35]

Was able to plastigage the number 4 rod bearing between jobs today. It is sitting at .002, the spec is .0015-.0025. I found an OEM set of rod bearings on Fleabay for $20.00 shipped so I bought them. If all the others gauge at .002, is there any reason to replace them right now? Or, just wait 'til the next rebuild?

 

[Steve]

Was able to plastigage the number 4 rod bearing between jobs today. It is sitting at .002, the spec is .0015-.0025. I found an OEM set of rod bearings on Fleabay for $20.00 shipped so I bought them. If all the others gauge at .002, is there any reason to replace them right now? Or, just wait 'til the next rebuild?

If you bought an entire set of bearings, put them in while you're there.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks. I figured $20.00 for a complete set of OEM was a good deal.

 

[Larry B]

If i have an engine down that far i put in bearings just because.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks. The front and rear main bearings are kind of a pain. The rear cap looks like it holds in part of the rear main seal, the front is sandwiched between the block and oil pump. Should I still replace the mains? In my experience the rod bearings always fail much sooner than the mains.

 

[Steve]

Thanks. The front and rear main bearings are kind of a pain. The rear cap looks like it holds in part of the rear main seal, the front is sandwiched between the block and oil pump. Should I still replace the mains? In my experience the rod bearings always fail much sooner than the mains.

The rear cap is a *b-word. Plasti gauge the center main and we'll go from there.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks, will do.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Ok, got my rod bearings in so I'll be putting those in. Napa didn't have the wide clearance plastigage for the main bearings, they had to order it.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Two dumb questions: the oil pan is cast iron and provides additional rigidity to the block, which is a load bearing member. I already have some Right Stuff, but for this application should use a gasket instead? Also, should I use assembly lube on the new rod bearings or just soak them in clean motor oil? I'm planning to spin the engine up to get oil pressure before I actually start it.

 

[Steve]

Two dumb questions: the oil pan is cast iron and provides additional rigidity to the block, which is a load bearing member. I already have some Right Stuff, but for this application should use a gasket instead? Also, should I use assembly lube on the new rod bearings or just soak them in clean motor oil? I'm planning to spin the engine up to get oil pressure before I actually start it.

Right stuff will be fine.


DO NOT lube the back side of the bearings! Put the bearings in the rods and caps dry. THEN lube the surface of the bearing that touches the crank. Gear oil or 30w motor oil will be fine.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks bro, will do. We sure didn't get much practice with this stuff at the dealership.

 

[Larry B]

He is correct to not lube the back side of the bearings. Oil works but i like the thick sticky red permatex assembly lube. I would use a pan gasket. I would put a very thin skin of the right stuff on both sides of the gasket. Install the pan bolts finger snug, wait about a half hour then torque to spec. Lots of ways to skin a feline. Just how i would do it.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks. I'll probably use the assembly lube just to be safe. The head still hasn't come back yet so no hurry on anything.

 

[Al Smith]

Those Continental engines are pretty forgiving .One of my z-120's has a welded block, split right down top and bottom from freezing up .Took me three tries to get it right .big bore kit .
The other one has an eccentric crankshaft with "slugged" mains ,shim stock under the inserts ,another big bore kit too .Rattles a little bit is all .Both have triple ground valve seats ,one has inserts .It should have the crank shaft under ground and over sized mains but it's doubtful that will happen unless it gets really bad which in the 20 years I've owned it has not .
In the 40 years I've had the one with the cracked block I've rebuilt the water pump using Ford seals I got at work ,rebuilt the oil pump ,replaced the cam shaft and changed both machine to a GMC one wire alternators .Clutch in one also .Reshimed the cluster gear in the tranny on one .Replaced the axle seals and bearings on one, brake shoes on both .Ground the valves on the scotch yoke hydraulic pump on one for the three point hitch and made new linkage for both .Changed the rear tires on both by hand .The list could go on but I'll stop for the moment .
The point is these things were built to last forever but from time to time they will require some attention .

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks. My understanding is the Z134 block is alot more reinforced than the earlier Z120 and Z120 were. Most of the cracked block reports are for the latter.

Was going to change the rod bearings after church, but Dad went to the hospital this morning so gotta be with him today. Please say a little prayer for him. He woke up this morning with nausea and some trouble breathing so my sister who is a nurse told him to go on in. Stubborn old toad insisted on driving himself over there!

 

[Al Smith]

You can weld about any cast iron if you know how .Caterpillar and Ford bell housing the worst and John Deere is the easiest . I once welded the bottom of a JD model A block they tried to unstick by pulling it .Bent that heavy connecting rod like it was a noodle .--Idiots ---

 

[FergusonTO35]

Ok, Dad is ok. Just needed his meds adjusted. Back to the tractor: installed the rod bearings today no problem. Plastigauged the center main bearing, it reads .007. The spec is .003-.027 so looks like we are good there. Before I put the pan back on, one thing that bothers me is that the oil strainer seems awfully loose on the pickup tube. It is secured with a cotter pin and is not going to come off, just seems awfully loose for my taste. Didn't have an o-ring on it or anything like that. The pipe and the strainer are at the same level so I don't think it's going to have problems sucking air or anything like that. I wonder if I should try putting an o-ring on it to make it more snug? Or am I just worrying about nothing?

 

[Steve]

Ok, Dad is ok. Just needed his meds adjusted. Back to the tractor: installed the rod bearings today no problem. Plastigauged the center main bearing, it reads .007. The spec is .003-.027 so looks like we are good there. Before I put the pan back on, one thing that bothers me is that the oil strainer seems awfully loose on the pickup tube. It is secured with a cotter pin and is not going to come off, just seems awfully loose for my taste. Didn't have an o-ring on it or anything like that. The pipe and the strainer are at the same level so I don't think it's going to have problems sucking air or anything like that. I wonder if I should try putting an o-ring on it to make it more snug? Or am I just worrying about nothing?

The oil pick up is designed that way. Don't mess with it or it could get stuck up out of the oil.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Did not know that, thanks!