Ever hear of full-handlebars causing un-due stress to clutch-side mount, up-to TANK-FAILURE?

[Cerberus]

tl;dr-- I was rough, using my impact-gun to remove the lower, clutch-side retention bolt for my full-wrap handlebars...these bars have always exhibited strong outward pressure so the 2 retention screws on clutch-side are "under load" as you're installing/removing them.... They'd been installed many many months back, using red loctite (I falsely thought there were metal inserts/bosses in those 2 holes), but I just had to remove it and using the impact-gun (being impatient) caused it to tear/leak gas from that hole.... Hoping for thoughts on how long-term I can expect a Motoseal-coated screw to reliably seal this, if at all, and anything I should look for insofar as stress marks/fractures from the overload/shock I caused (FWIW I did start the screw by hand at least 1 rotation but until it's several turns out the full-wrap bars put such strong outward pressure on it that it's hard to feel you even started the bolt (and I forgot to place pressure on the full-wrap to alleviate it so the bolt would come out easier, just sloppy work on my part on at least 2 aspects, am blown away it was a plastic screw-boss but I approached it like a neanderthal))

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I'd always hated the "outward-pressure" my full-wrap bars exhibit at the saw's clutch-side mounting, anyways all had been fine for like 1/2yr and, just now removing handlebars (tank-sleds being installed on both - ironic!), I (moronically) used my impact-gun to remove the lower clutch-side bolt of the full-wraps and, presumably from the hard-release/cracking of Loctite on that screw (which sits inside the plastic tank's body...), it burst a hole somewhere in that tract/female-bolt-hole!!

I know - it's a cheap saw / this is expected (it's now issue #2, not sure just yet how much a PITB it'll be), just posting to see if others have had this problem/heard of it because I can't tell how much was that "already there, strong-outwards pressure on the clutch-side mount" of the full-wrap, and how much was me being an impatient-moron and using an impact-gun to remove a screw I should've been removing by-hand (to be fair I did actually start them by hand but the outwards-pressure of the bar at that interface leaves that bolt under-tension until it's fully released/un-seated...should've kept the top bolt right above it tighter, and done it by-hand, cannot imagine this would've happened :/

ANYWAY re solutions, I'm not going for a new tank/handle just yet because I cannot help think that the mere re-installation of the handlebar-bolt, slathering it with Motoseal before I install it (into a cleaned channel of course!), I suspect this'll be enough to 100.0% rectify it otherwise will have a "saw cannot be >50% full" issue, as-if you had a leaky fuel-tank-cap annoying but probably not something I'll need to replace for, am examining damages now so figured to post for help if anyone's got advice on what to look for / ways they've proceeded, I know I've heard of fuel tank patching but don't know the 1st thing and this is inside a screw-boss so will inherently be a 'load bearing' area (though I could brace/eliminate that if necessary)

Thanks for any insight/advice!! 1st real faux-660 problem (finally right?? Kinda overdue was almost starting to let it get to my head after how well my big bore came out )

 

[Ronie]

If your worried about using Motoseal on the handlebar screw, you could try some yellow teflon tape and see if that will seal it.

 

[Ronie]

Something like this, white would probable be ok too but I think the yellow is thicker. PTFE is fuel resistant. If it was me I'd try the Motoseal.

 

[JB-PlantHeirloom]

> using red loctite

Why use red loc-tite? It is suppose to keep it's grip until heated.

What you might consider is get a plastic welding rod and fill the hole, then drill and tap it. I guess it might be a tad difficult getting the hot air tool inside, so, you might consider an iron tool. I would say Harbor Fright, but, after seeing their (1) star reviews on the $80 tool I decided to skip it for now. I made due with my 15w/40 iron. Though their plastic rods seem to get good enough reviews.

 

[Mastermind]

Sounds like your handlebar is bent.

 

[MustangMike]

Or, if it is an AM unit, needs to be!

I had to "re tension" the stress of several regular handlebars that came with the AM 440 kits to reduce vibrations.

If you just "used them as they came" they would overwhelm the dampeners.

 

[Funky sawman]

That why I opt for oem handles only. I've seen broken tanks from those Chinese crap handles, and the aluminum used isn't as strong as the oem stuff, and the handle wrap material lasts only week in a professional setting.