Ferguson tractor Z134 valve job

[Larry B]

Since you have the head off if you can drop the pan easily you can remove a main bearing cap and look at the backside of the bearing insert and see if it has something like std or 010 or 020 stamped in it. If there is no stamping it is probably original standard bearings. You can also use a vernier caliper across the journal measuring up against the block. A little technique sensitive but works.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks, will do!

 

[stretch5881]

Usually, if a crank is ground, it will be stamped somewhere on it as to the journal undersize. I have come across very old rebuilds that have had journals ground a different amount for each one. If it were mine, I would pull a couple of caps and see if the babbit was wiped off the bearing. If shiny copper is showing, then new bearings. If not, then I would button it back up.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks, will do. Got the pan off this morning and glad I did, it was starting to leak in a few places.

 

[Larry B]

Probably start a gasket war thread but....

When you put the pan back on i like to put a thin film of "the right stuff" on both sides of the gasket install the bolts finger tight then wait a half hour or so then torque to spec. I quit using the rainbow of RTV and now use the right stuff for everything.
If i don't like you i will use copious amounts of form a gasket #2 or indian head gasket shellac on both sides of the gasket.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Been treating my gaskets with Form a Gasket number 2 for a long time, also Super 300. Ultra Blue works really well for making small gaskets, I also smear a very thin translucent coat of it on cork gaskets to help with adhesion and seal fine scratches and gaps.

 

[Steve]

Been treating my gaskets with Form a Gasket number 2 for a long time, also Super 300. Ultra Blue works really well for making small gaskets, I also smear a very thin translucent coat of it on cork gaskets to help with adhesion and seal fine scratches and gaps.

Throw all of those away and use right stuff like @Larry B said. I wouldn't even uses an oil pan gasket. Right stuff will make a leak proof seal longer than any natural or synthetic gasket material ever thought it could! Proper prep is a must though like any sealer. Surfaces clean of any rust, corosion, dirt, oil, ECT. Apply a good bead, bolt it down fully and let is cure a minimum of one minute and you are good to go! I do like to personally let it cure overnight if possible before returning it to service.

 

[FergusonTO35]

I have used Right Stuff before, probably will use it on this one. Got to looking at the crank and found the main cap bolts are safety wired in place. Old school design for sure, I think Caterpillar did that also back in the day. Makes sense given that Continental was, and still is, an aircraft engine maker.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Yanked out piston and rod number 4. Definitely some wear on it, i think bearings and rings might be a good idea. The crank journals look really good. I think a new air filter setup might be good too, the oil bath seems to let a lot of crud in.

 

[FergusonTO35]

 

[FergusonTO35]

 

[FergusonTO35]

 

[Steve]

Yanked out piston and rod number 4. Definitely some wear on it, i think bearings and rings might be a good idea. The crank journals look really good. I think a new air filter setup might be good too, the oil bath seems to let a lot of crud in.

View attachment 294427

It all looks pretty good to me. Some scuffing is ok. Could be from the engine running too cold. Most old gas tractors have a 150 degree thermostat because when you work them hard with a plow they get hot and run about 180 which is where you want it. If you just do light tasks they never get hot and they stay in the 160 range. I prefer oil bath air cleaners over a dry element. They do a much better job if they are set up properly. Make sure all your air tube connections are air tight after the cannisters and that the steel mesh is clean and in good shape. Oil of the proper weight is also a must and keep it clean and at the proper level.

Plasti-gauge the bearings and report back!

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks, will do

 

[Larry B]

It all looks very good for an old tractor. If you go with new rings i would get a ball hone and deglaze the cylinders. New rod and main bearings are pretty cheap. Pistons look fine. Oil bath filters are fine as long you do maintenance on them but most people don't.

 

[FergusonTO35]

There is a slight ridge at the top of each cylinder that can be felt with a fingernail. Is this anything to worry about? Maybe smooth it out with 220 grit sandpaper?

 

[Larry B]

I would be careful with that ridge. I would try some scotchbrite first. You dont want to scratch up the top of the cylinder. The local auto parts might loan you a ridge reamer. Normally you can just pop the rings over the ridge but you need to remove all the ridge. New rings and bearings can raise the piston TDC by a couple thousandths. This can have the top ring hitting the ridge. Not good. I would try to find a ridge reamer if possible.

 

[Steve]

There is a slight ridge at the top of each cylinder that can be felt with a fingernail. Is this anything to worry about? Maybe smooth it out with 220 grit sandpaper?

That engine is sleeved. I would not mess with it unless you put a piston/sleeve kit in it. The ridge is from it running too cold possibly. The oil control ring looks good from your pics above which confirms like you said it burns no oil. It has three compression rings, it will take several thousand hours to wear all of those to a low compression situation.


Long story short, from what I see, put #4 back together and don't look back. Stagger the ring gaps per the service manual of course. Still check the bearing clearance with some Plasti gauge and if it all checks out, put it back together with the new head and run the pizz out of it.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks guys. I suppose I'll check the bearings and put it back together, since I don't have the time or budget to do sleeves and pistons right now. I'll also put a 180 degree thermostat and new temp gauge in.

 

[Steve]

Thanks guys. I suppose I'll check the bearings and put it back together, since I don't have the time or budget to do sleeves and pistons right now. I'll also put a 180 degree thermostat and new temp gauge in.

Right. The whole point of this is to check everything while it's apart to make sure it is in its service limits. Which so far it all looks that way.