Ferguson tractor Z134 valve job

[FergusonTO35]

Figured I'd start a new thread since this isnt really about the carburetor any more. Got the head off my Ferguson TO-35 with Continental Z134 gasser. As expected everything is nice and crusty. Number 3 exhaust valve is burned pretty good, don't know if the photo shows it well.



I think the bottom end was redone not long before I bought it in 2007. It has a new style coated head gasket. The pistons and liners look great and appear to be quality aftermarket. Not a hint of a ridge at the top of the liners. Will take the head to a machine shop next week to have it cleaned, inspected, and seats and guides replaced.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Ok, got the head apart. Things don't look nearly as bad as I thought, except one intake valve that doesnt look like its seating straight. Take a look and tell me what you think.

Cylinder one



See the dark area on the intake valve where it contacts the seat?

 

[FergusonTO35]

Cylinder two.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Cylinder three.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Cylinder four.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Some major crust deposits in the intake ports, hopefully you can see them in this photo. Maybe those are keeping the valves from closing all the way? Maybe causing hotspots and pre-ignition?

 

[Steve]

Definitely need the head professional rebuilt. Those seats are too wide. The guides are probably worn too. The carbon in the intake ports won't really cause too much issue on a low revving engine like this but can cause hard starting when cold. Pull a piston out and see how bad the rings are worn. Specifically the oil ring. You are this far, a in frame rebuild will be worth the cost!

 

[Motorka]

I would check piston rings and bearings.

 

[stretch5881]

The carbon probably looked a lot worse when they rebuilt the block. Leaded gas, nickel a quart of high quality oil and worn sleeves and rings. Not to mention the dirty environment they were used in, and no time to change oil in the engine or air cleaner until fall. The heads don't look too bad.
The valve that doesn't seat is likely bent.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks. I'm planning to take the head to a local shop here that has a good reputation and see what they say about it.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Just dropped it off at the machine shop. The guy said the seats and guides were definitely worn and it needs a valve train kit. So, how involved would an inframe rebuild be? Is it basically a matter of new pistons, liners, and bearings?

 

[Steve]

Just dropped it off at the machine shop. The guy said the seats and guides were definitely worn and it needs a valve train kit. So, how involved would an inframe rebuild be? Is it basically a matter of new pistons, liners, and bearings?

At this point just removing the oil pan. In frame build is usually pistons, rings, sleeves, and rod bearings. You can also do mains one at a time by removing a main cap and put a nail or cotter pin in the oil hole of the crank and spin the crank by hand. The nail will catch the bearing and spin it out. Then do the same with the new bearing to slide it in.

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks. I 'spose I'll at least take the oil pan off and give everything a good inspection. If the postons and sleeves are in good shape, could I maybe get away with rings and bearings? This tractor doesnt use a drop of oil and the compression test was quite good. Im trying to cash flow everything and not put any on the plastic.

 

[Steve]

Thanks. I 'spose I'll at least take the oil pan off and give everything a good inspection. If the postons and sleeves are in good shape, could I maybe get away with rings and bearings? This tractor doesnt use a drop of oil and the compression test was quite good. Im trying to cash flow everything and not put any on the plastic.

It's totally worth popping them out and inspecting everything. Get some plasti-gauge and see where your bearing clearance is. If it all looks good you have piece of mind, which is worth your time and an oil pan gasket!

 

[FergusonTO35]

Thanks, will do.

 

[stretch5881]

I don't want to sound negative, but, I have worked on a few that had in frame rebuilds and the cam bearings never got touched. Guys would buy tractors that were rebuilt, and yet, the top end would not get much oil. But, if you have good oil pressure, probably not an issue.

 

[Dustin4185]

You can also change the mains by tapping them out with a punch.

 

[Steve]

I don't want to sound negative, but, I have worked on a few that had in frame rebuilds and the cam bearings never got touched. Guys would buy tractors that were rebuilt, and yet, the top end would not get much oil. But, if you have good oil pressure, probably not an issue.

Very true.

 

[Larry B]

The head doesn't look too bad. Definitely needs a valve job and the guides checked. You say the engine doesn't use any oil. If so no real reason to pull the pistons. If you do decide to pull the pistons i would deglaze with a ball hone and install new rings. If you drop the pan i would go ahead and put in new rod and main bearings.

 

[FergusonTO35]

The head doesn't look too bad. Definitely needs a valve job and the guides checked. You say the engine doesn't use any oil. If so no real reason to pull the pistons. If you do decide to pull the pistons i would deglaze with a ball hone and install new rings. If you drop the pan i would go ahead and put in new rod and main bearings.

Thanks, that is what I am leaning towards right now. The top end has no problem getting oil, I can tell you that. The oil pressure gauge that it had always stayed in sort of the lower 40% of the green zone until it quit working last year. I put a new gauge with numbers on it yesterday as a matter of fact. Is there any easy way to tell if the crank has been ground and needs oversize bearings?

I'm probably going to have alot more dumb questions about this. Yes I was an auto tech for a first career but didn't do much in the way of actually measuring things or troubleshooting mechanical problems. Most of the time I was doing alignments, suspension, brakes, tires, small electrical and diagnostic stuff. When I did actually get into an engine it was already determined what would happen to it. I did the job, got my time for it, and moved on to the next one. At the dealership almost all of our engine work was warranty and Toyota decided how they would be repaired. We made sure that engine problems ended up needing a new short block instead of doing a rebuild under warranty which didn't pay anything and had a high chance of comebacks.