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Brush Ape

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Experience is the best teacher. You know with a chisel, knife or any manual cutting tool, a dull tool is a dangerous one. When you have chain spinning 90 MPH, how much is that hazard amplified?

Sometimes it is best to witness a failure to see what won't work. It's fun stuff to post chainsaw vids on youtube....but; I'm sounding off here for a renaissance in chain sharpening. If you're a member here at OPEforum, you're already a 1%-er and more than likely, you're part of the cure and not the problem. lol Especially in this here, "Just Chains," sub-forum that goes twice.

The best modification you can make to increase the performance of a chainsaw is a properly sharpened, tensioned and lubricated chain. That's neck and neck with carb tuning. Let's have a look at some dull chain vidjas and have a little lol.

 

junkman

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Just got done sharpening 7 chisel chains that most guys would have kept using because they still cut half ass ,once they lose the edge at all i swap them out . No reason to run a dull tool , i kind of wonder how sharp most guys cut with ,and what is acceptable to most guys when cutting,i have a stihl bar with a lot of use now and the paint is not burt off from running hot ,i see some guys bars,you can tell they run dull chain by the paint missing.
 
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Just got done sharpening 7 chisel chains that most guys would have kept using because they still cut half ass ,once they lose the edge at all i swap them out . No reason to run a dull tool , i kind of wonder how sharp most guys cut with ,and what is acceptable to most guys when cutting,i have a stihl bar with a lot of use now and the paint is not burt off from running hot ,i see some guys bars,you can tell they run dull chain by the paint missing.

I'm with you. When the chain start's to fall on it's face then it get's touched up.
 

HuskyHill

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It only takes a few minutes to touch a chain up and keep safe and productive. If you let it go to long it is much harder to put an edge back on and sometimes takes a couple sharpening s to get it back to where it should be. I sometimes cut in areas where there were old pastures and unfortunately "find" the occasional nail or fence wire grown into the tree which does a job on the chain and it's never fun to put an edge back on after that.
 

Canadian farm boy

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I agree. It only takes a minute or two to give each cutter a couple quick licks with a file. I usually do this when I've stopped to fuel up the saw again. (Helps extend your break as well). Now if I hit something in the wood or put the chain in the dirt I switch out the chain. The damaged chain will then get sharpened on my grinder.
 

junkman

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I agree. It only takes a minute or two to give each cutter a couple quick licks with a file. I usually do this when I've stopped to fuel up the saw again. (Helps extend your break as well). Now if I hit something in the wood or put the chain in the dirt I switch out the chain. The damaged chain will then get sharpened on my grinder.
I just grind em ,and have some fresh ones ready to go if hit something ,keep having chrome buildup on the side plate sometimes for some reason ,looks like a double cutter till it gets used once .I never use a file on a work chain ,i hit too much rocks and stuff to put that much time into a chain .If have to use the dogs for anything but lining up cuts ,your chain is not sharp ..404 2-1-16 269.JPG .404 2-1-16 272.JPG .404 2-1-16 270.JPG
 

RCBS

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I agree. It only takes a minute or two to give each cutter a couple quick licks with a file. I usually do this when I've stopped to fuel up the saw again. (Helps extend your break as well). Now if I hit something in the wood or put the chain in the dirt I switch out the chain. The damaged chain will then get sharpened on my grinder.

This is what I do. Few strokes every time I fuel the saw. Over the years, I have become fairly proficient with a hand file...practice makes mediocre they say! One of these days, I'll learn to keep the tip out of the dirt.
 
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