346 porting (first time)

[paragonbuilder]

They are all foredom hand pieces. The 90 deg handpieces say

So I'll see how they hold up.
I just set up my work station this morning.

I think I'm going to widen the intake and exhaust a little, and raise the transfers a whisker.
Then I need to learn how to degree a saw and mark it out how I want to time it.
I have a roached 288 jug I may practice on.


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[mdavlee]

Those little jugs are harder for me to do. Such a small area to work in.

 

[paragonbuilder]

Those little jugs are harder for me to do. Such a small area to work in.

Any tips?


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[mdavlee]

Any tips?


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Go slow and make sure the bit is in the transfer port before you start it and let it stop spinning before you remove it.

 

[paragonbuilder]

Go slow and make sure the bit is in the transfer port before you start it and let it stop spinning before you remove it.

Thanks, That makes sense.


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[jmssaws]

Even small jugs need lovin.

 

[drf256]

Any tips?


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For the small jugs, make the total burr shaft length about 1.5". I clip them with bolt cutters and finish the end on a grinding wheel. Otherwise, the back of the shaft hits the opposing side of the cylinder and messes up your approach angle.

Is your motor reversible? One L handed burr is a good idea for the final run. You wind up with different shaped uppers from side to side unless you do this. You're pulling the burr against its rotation, this will force you to go in opposite directions on opposing sides. You wind up cutting INTO the intake side on one side, and INTO the exhaust on the other. You can obviously get away without the L handed situation, I just like it.

You have to enter the transfer with your burr at an angle, or it will chatter. Randy E has a good video somewhere of how to cut with no chatter. You cut in first, and then slowly pull your burr across. Reduces chatter a lot.

Does one of your R angle pieces have a 3mm collet? My stupid 3mm collet was around $60 from CC Specialties. I wasn't too happy about that until I realized how much it saved me in consumables. You'll be able to buy (very much) cheaper Chinese sanding stones that seem to be mostly available in 3mm and not 3.125 (1/8"). A few 1/8" shanked attachments I bought were actually 3mm, so I couldn't tighten them into my handpiece.

Alot of this has to be self learned. Try to hold the handpiece with one hand, the jug with the other, and use one or two of your jug hand fingers to steady the handpiece as you cut. Gives you more control.

Some guys use rubbing alcohol as a lubricant while cutting. I found it of no use for me.

Good luck Dan! Post lots of pics.

 

[mdavlee]

I clamp the jug in a vise and that way I can use both hands on the handpiece.

 

[Redfin]

I clamp the jug in a vise and that way I can use both hands on the handpiece.

Im gonna have to try this. Have been holding the jug in one hand.

 

[skippy]

My favorite lil saw

 

[Ironworker]

When you're grinding don't be fooled by how light your tools are, they will get away from you easily and give you some unauthorized gouges.

 

[jake wells]

my husq dealer said yeah he got the price revision in the email box but he said he sets the prices on the parts
346xp top end kit is 270 plus tax here so i will continue to buy the aftermarket kits.

 

[skippy]

my husq dealer said yeah he got the price revision in the email box but he said he sets the prices on the parts
346xp top end kit is 270 plus tax here so i will continue to buy the aftermarket kits.

Talk to spike60 buddy he will give you the price . I think it was 105

 

[jake wells]

im good at the moment.

 

[paragonbuilder]

For the small jugs, make the total burr shaft length about 1.5". I clip them with bolt cutters and finish the end on a grinding wheel. Otherwise, the back of the shaft hits the opposing side of the cylinder and messes up your approach angle.

Is your motor reversible? One L handed burr is a good idea for the final run. You wind up with different shaped uppers from side to side unless you do this. You're pulling the burr against its rotation, this will force you to go in opposite directions on opposing sides. You wind up cutting INTO the intake side on one side, and INTO the exhaust on the other. You can obviously get away without the L handed situation, I just like it.

You have to enter the transfer with your burr at an angle, or it will chatter. Randy E has a good video somewhere of how to cut with no chatter. You cut in first, and then slowly pull your burr across. Reduces chatter a lot.

Does one of your R angle pieces have a 3mm collet? My stupid 3mm collet was around $60 from CC Specialties. I wasn't too happy about that until I realized how much it saved me in consumables. You'll be able to buy (very much) cheaper Chinese sanding stones that seem to be mostly available in 3mm and not 3.125 (1/8"). A few 1/8" shanked attachments I bought were actually 3mm, so I couldn't tighten them into my handpiece.

Alot of this has to be self learned. Try to hold the handpiece with one hand, the jug with the other, and use one or two of your jug hand fingers to steady the handpiece as you cut. Gives you more control.

Some guys use rubbing alcohol as a lubricant while cutting. I found it of no use for me.

Good luck Dan! Post lots of pics.

Thanks Al.
No my motor isn't reversible.
Not sure on the collets yet. I've got to go thru all the bits and pieces I've got...


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[paragonbuilder]

Does this saw like timing advance?


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[Stihlbro]

It is not necessary to advance timing on the 346's. But that is just my opinion.

 

[mdavlee]

I can't remember if I advanced them or not. I don't write that down usually. I guess I need to start.

 

[SixGun]

I tried and the 346 would sound like it was missing when under load. My opinion, I dont think it helps.

 

[Motorhead]

[TQUOTE="paragonbuilder, post: 14143, member: 384"]Just picked up some porting tools.

Recipe for disasteThats what i use


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