346 porting (first time)

[beaglebriar]

I'm curious to see how well it runs without dropping it. Port work looks nice.

 

[paragonbuilder]

Looks good. If you can get a little bigger stone or burr into the transfers it will help keep them more even. Nice bevels on the ports.

Thanks Mike.
Can you explain what you mean by more even?



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[mdavlee]

Thanks Mike.
Can you explain what you mean by more even?



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There's a few little waves in the transfer roof looks like.

 

[paragonbuilder]

I'm curious to see how well it runs without dropping it. Port work looks nice.

Me too!


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[paragonbuilder]

There's a few little waves in the transfer roof looks like.View attachment 6042

I will take a closer look. So they should be perfectly flat? What happens when they aren't?


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[mdavlee]

I will take a closer look. So they should be perfectly flat? What happens when they aren't?


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As flat as you can get. Just flows a little uneven for a split second. Nothing to worry about. The 44 mm bore is hard to work in .

 

[paragonbuilder]

As flat as you can get. Just flows a little uneven for a split second. Nothing to worry about. The 44 mm bore is hard to work in .

Damn you've got good eyes Mike. You're right. Very tiny waves.
I don't have too many bits for the 90 deg handpiece. But I'll look through it all tomorrow and see what I can find.


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[mdavlee]

It doesn't look like more than a couple thousandths. .010" is a degree of I remember right.

 

[paragonbuilder]

It doesn't look like more than a couple thousandths. .010" is a degree of I remember right.

Yeah it's pretty minimal. But I'll keep a closer eye on it next time.


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[David Young]

I'm curious to see how well it runs without dropping it. Port work looks nice.

It simply won't run common knowledge

It needs finger ports toe ports cut squish band pop up turbo vane crank and at least four holes in the muffler with chrome plated tubing.



Your porting looks nice. Factory is often not that nice. You should be proud of your efforts.

You will soon figure this out. But you can go faster. It will affect longevity and take more effort. You can tune the saw to be faster in big wood or faster in smaller wood. You can make it run well and have good road manners or put it on the ragged edge and may not be quite as nice. Idle or warm start or sustained cutting or how loud it is.

We see people showcase some high effort fast saws. With nice handiwork. That's great. But it doesn't have to be and one size does not fit all.

What is your squish?

From the squish band to the ex port open how far is it?

Same for the transfers

David

 

[Ironworker]

Nice work, I'm guessing you're gonna leave the lower transfers alone. I like to draw a line in the middle where they divide and grind both lowers to the line and match the case, which really isn't much.

 

[drf256]

Damn Dan, that's some nice grinding.

You sure this is your first rodeo?

 

[paragonbuilder]

Damn Dan, that's some nice grinding.

You sure this is your first rodeo?

Thanks!
It may look good but I may have made a turd without checking my timing numbers.
Lol


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[paragonbuilder]

Nice work, I'm guessing you're gonna leave the lower transfers alone. I like to draw a line in the middle where they divide and grind both lowers to the line and match the case, which really isn't much.

Well funny you mention them. Someone on another site just told me the most gains are on the lowers on huskys? I'll have to look at them before I put it back together. A little more grinding can't hurt me...
Anyone else have some insight on this?
Do you have any pics Numa?



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[Ironworker]

I'll try and get a pic later, I've done three saws like this and the results were good including a 346 and a 357.

 

[beaglebriar]

It simply won't run common knowledge

It needs finger ports toe ports cut squish band pop up turbo vane crank and at least four holes in the muffler with chrome plated tubing.



Your porting looks nice. Factory is often not that nice. You should be proud of your efforts.

You will soon figure this out. But you can go faster. It will affect longevity and take more effort. You can tune the saw to be faster in big wood or faster in smaller wood. You can make it run well and have good road manners or put it on the ragged edge and may not be quite as nice. Idle or warm start or sustained cutting or how loud it is.

We see people showcase some high effort fast saws. With nice handiwork. That's great. But it doesn't have to be and one size does not fit all.

What is your squish?

From the squish band to the ex port open how far is it?

Same for the transfers

David

I completely agree. When I said that I'm curious as to how well it runs it's because I don't have the tooling to cut the base and squish either and I have a similar project in the works. I'm truly interested in the results.

 

[mdavlee]

If I remember correctly about 20% cut speed was what I got on a 346 by no machine work mods. The other mods you can gain a good bit more with.

 

[ft. churchill]

Your work looks excellent. I use the spiral sandpaper rolls alot for the finish work and removing the waves.

 

[skippy]

[TQUOTE="paragonbuilder, post: 14143, member: 384"]Just picked up some porting tools.

Recipe for disasteThats what i use


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[/QUOTE]
Where are you located ? I see something in the picture that tells me you are closer to me than I realized.

 

[czar800]

Nice work and Nice score on the foredom!!

Where are you located ? I see something in the picture that tells me you are closer to me than I realized.[/QUOTE]

I seen that also..