066 Rebuild, Port Job etc

[drf256]

Job done.
It's a bit dodgy and I will probably build a better version but it will do the job for now.

Had to do some plastic surgery

View attachment 15736

Bored out the alloy block and tapped the inside of the block so it screwed down tight. This gives something for the top nut to clamp the cover onto.

View attachment 15737

View attachment 15738

View attachment 15739

And as I said, to make feel better about the crappy imitation cover, it got a magnum decal to distract attention.
It also gives the saw 20% more power

View attachment 15740

Fantastic work!

 

[Brewz]

Bling Bling!

Its fully sick now bro

 

[drf256]

Looks like your saw has a boner.

 

[Brewz]

And its VERY well endowed

 

[Terry Syd]

"Now that's an AIR FILTER" - (apologies to Crocodile Dundee)

 

[Brewz]

What sort of compression levels can these babies be taken to while maintaining a reasonable level of reliability?

 

[Moparmyway]

One of mine lives with just over 240#

 

[Deets066]

 

[Deets066]

I did mine with the filter base instead of the cover

 

[Deets066]

 

[Deets066]

 

[Deets066]

Thanks to definate Dave I had an extra filter base to play with

 

[Deets066]

 

[bikemike]

Looks like your saw has a boner.

I was about to say that. Glad it's wrapped up don't need more of those around lol

 

[Brewz]

Started making a square alloy plate to bolt on top of the cylinder that will hold it in a 4 jaw chuck.

@Mastermind has inspired me with his early "mastermind meets the....." posts

I doubt I am going to be able to make a nylon boss to go inside the cylinder to use to cut the base as seen in these posts.

Has anyone had luck bolting the threaded bar up under the bottom fins on the cylinder?

If its not a good idea, and my mechanical side says it wont be, I will remove material from the squish using the lathe and delete the gasket, which will mean I can carefully sand the base to set my squish with minimal work.

The piston just hits with no gasket and the gasket gives me 0.022
So if I remove 0.040 from the squish and assuming the gasket is about 0.025 - 0.030, I would only have to sand 0.010 which is very doable.

Thoughts and advice welcome...... this is my cherry run and I want it to work!

 

[Deets066]

Started making a square alloy plate to bolt on top of the cylinder that will hold it in a 4 jaw chuck.

@Mastermind has inspired me with his early "mastermind meets the....." posts

I doubt I am going to be able to make a nylon boss to go inside the cylinder to use to cut the base as seen in these posts.

Has anyone had luck bolting the threaded bar up under the bottom fins on the cylinder?

If its not a good idea, and my mechanical side says it wont be, I will remove material from the squish using the lathe and delete the gasket, which will mean I can carefully sand the base to set my squish with minimal work.

The piston just hits with no gasket and the gasket gives me 0.022
So if I remove 0.040 from the squish and assuming the gasket is about 0.025 - 0.030, I would only have to sand 0.010 which is very doable.

Thoughts and advice welcome...... this is my cherry run and I want it to work!

Do you have a vertical belt sander? I believe thats how JMS cuts his bases

 

[Deets066]

Gaskets are .017 or .020 usually

 

[drf256]

Started making a square alloy plate to bolt on top of the cylinder that will hold it in a 4 jaw chuck.

@Mastermind has inspired me with his early "mastermind meets the....." posts

I doubt I am going to be able to make a nylon boss to go inside the cylinder to use to cut the base as seen in these posts.

Has anyone had luck bolting the threaded bar up under the bottom fins on the cylinder?

If its not a good idea, and my mechanical side says it wont be, I will remove material from the squish using the lathe and delete the gasket, which will mean I can carefully sand the base to set my squish with minimal work.

The piston just hits with no gasket and the gasket gives me 0.022
So if I remove 0.040 from the squish and assuming the gasket is about 0.025 - 0.030, I would only have to sand 0.010 which is very doable.

Thoughts and advice welcome...... this is my cherry run and I want it to work!

If you have a lathe, why can't you turn down some PVC rod to slide into the jug?

Cut the face of it how you want, and it doubles nicely as a sanding mandrel.

 

[Moparmyway]

Started making a square alloy plate to bolt on top of the cylinder that will hold it in a 4 jaw chuck.

@Mastermind has inspired me with his early "mastermind meets the....." posts

I doubt I am going to be able to make a nylon boss to go inside the cylinder to use to cut the base as seen in these posts.

Has anyone had luck bolting the threaded bar up under the bottom fins on the cylinder?

If its not a good idea, and my mechanical side says it wont be, I will remove material from the squish using the lathe and delete the gasket, which will mean I can carefully sand the base to set my squish with minimal work.

The piston just hits with no gasket and the gasket gives me 0.022
So if I remove 0.040 from the squish and assuming the gasket is about 0.025 - 0.030, I would only have to sand 0.010 which is very doable.

Thoughts and advice welcome...... this is my cherry run and I want it to work!

The thing that I see here is that you arent sure where your cylinder port timing is, and you dont know where you want to go.
Mostly every 660 can use the base cut, which requires reworking the squish, but the cylinder base timing usually derives how much to cut and where to cut it from.

If you measure correctly, you wont need to cut your base ............... unless thats your aim to begin with

 

[Deets066]

Brews, if you plan to take .050 out of the squish you will most definitely have to raise your transfers up.