That picture was before it was chucked up. Although I kept that plate, I did back nut the base flange to it. My challenges were mostly due to how worn out my buddy's lathe and chucks are. I tried shims, yada yada... I spent over 4 hours trying to dial it in. It walked on me. I had a feeling it would.
That sucks.
I learned the hard way on this build too man. I started out with a farmertec copy of the 194. It ran but wasn't very tunable. I bought a new 426b for it and it was perfect. Also, definitely don't go aftermarket on fuel or impulse hoses. Trash. Oem only.
Oh... And the fuel line likes getting sandwiched between the carb and the air filter when you you tighten the filter down. Make sure that is below the air filter.
As I said when I joined this site... I knew this would be hard, and was prepared to fail. Not a huge loss... It was a hyway topend. And, it runs. Tomorrow I'll try and tune it and put it in some wood. If it'll cut, that'll buy me some time to for something from a real saw porter!
Best of luck man, hopefully it gets you by for a whle. At least the mindset was correct. "If you ain't f'n $h!t up, you ain't learning"...As I said when I joined this site... I knew this would be hard, and was prepared to fail. Not a huge loss... It was a hyway topend. And, it runs. Tomorrow I'll try and tune it and put it in some wood. If it'll cut, that'll buy me some time to for something from a real saw porter!
That's exactly right. You can't learn anything unless you try. There are millions of those cylinders out there too. Ruining a few ain't the end of the world.
Yep, many ways to skin the cat... I think that's why (or one of the reasons) I enjoy working on saws... personally i prefer opening the access holes to allow for a snug fit between the cylinder and the studs. The 460bb I opened the holes approximately. 020" in-order to use 5/16" studs. Made for an extremely snug but rigid setup.
I take anywhere from .010" to .025" per pass depending on the tool/insert being used. The standard boring bar insert I take .010"... the 3 point insert i face feed relatively heavy, .025".
I bet that's how I moved it. I thought 3thou nips were gentle enough. Bet money I wasn't through the nikasil yet. 5 tenths woulda been tough on that sloppy lathe though.
Mine is true but the wheel threads are sloppy. Backlash central. I tighten the gibs down a little on tough bands
Showing my ignorance... The gibs are the screws on the part that slides on the ways, that tightens said part on said ways? I was not successful in eliminating all lash using those. There seemed to be a ton in the threaded portions (threads that dials drive). If I had this to do again, I'd want to mill fixture plates and use aluminum bar to support them, like @Rich Fife did. I like the idea of bolting the jug to the base plate, rather than running through the fin holes. I have to look back to see who to credit that idea with. When I worked at the machine shop, I made lots of fixtures for making parts. We made parts for mistubishi heavy industries corrugation division. Those Japanese fellas wanted some tight tolerances. Which was fun to try and achieve in a non climate controlled hot/ice box. I found fixtures and setup, like with most things, is key. On this saw project, I definitely lacked a mill, and the ability to stress setup. There wasn't a true dimension on those plates I made. That's why I marked them for orientation. I basically had to pick a side, (the least fubucked side lol), and work off that as the datum. Sheeesh. Next time I try this, I'll either have a small mill and my own lathe, or, I'll take my old boss at the shop some cookies in hopes he'll let me spend a Saturday making up fixtures and such lol. I still have my edge finders, mics, and verniers, and indicators... And he's still running ancient matsura's. And I think I might remember g code still, although most of this stuff can be done manually.
