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beaglebriar

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So it isn't the first time I've seen this with a 372 base gasket but this one is kind of interesting. I've had this saw on my builder shelf for several years and my son wants a 372 so we opened it up. Whoever owned it obviously could never get it to idle properly and backed the idle screw out until it lost spring tension and fell out. The screw was lodged under the carb for some time until it finally made it's way to the flywheel. Saw was given to me because it was locked up. Super easy repair.. we'll have it cleaned up and back together in no time. See how it runs then give it the go fast treatment.
 

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Kiwioilboiler

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So it isn't the first time I've seen this with a 372 base gasket but this one is kind of interesting. I've had this saw on my builder shelf for several years and my son wants a 372 so we opened it up. Whoever owned it obviously could never get it to idle properly and backed the idle screw out until it lost spring tension and fell out. The screw was lodged under the carb for some time until it finally made it's way to the flywheel. Saw was given to me because it was locked up. Super easy repair.. we'll have it cleaned up and back together in no time. See how it runs then give it the go fast treatment.
I wouldn't stand for that sort of insolence from a base gasket DJ. Its begging to be discarded...
 

farminkarman

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Thanks. I have cut a couple bases but I have been apprehensive about cutting bands. It looks like a lot of setup and also looks a bit dangerous if I set it up wrong. Any helpful hints?
It’s really not too bad. For most cylinders I just use a single 5”x5”x1/2” thick aluminum plate with holes drilled in it to match the cylinder. You can use threaded rod, studs, or long bolts to secure the cylinder to the plate. I use a test indicator with a long contact finger to measure runout at the top & bottom of the jug. Here is a vid that @Mastermind did on this:
 

CJ Brown

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It’s really not too bad. For most cylinders I just use a single 5”x5”x1/2” thick aluminum plate with holes drilled in it to match the cylinder. You can use threaded rod, studs, or long bolts to secure the cylinder to the plate. I use a test indicator with a long contact finger to measure runout at the top & bottom of the jug. Here is a vid that @Mastermind did on this:
Thanks again that's great! What rpm would you run at to cut the band?
 

Sierra_rider

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Thanks again that's great! What rpm would you run at to cut the band?
As long as it doesn't get too "vibey," faster is generally better. I'm probably cutting pretty slow compared to some, but I generally run 360rpm on mine. I'm not using the power feed when cutting them, so any slower than that leads to a rougher finish with my inconsistent hands. Even after all that, I'll sand the squish band with adhesive sand paper on the same mandrel I use for cutting the base.
 
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