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Agent Smith

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Aftermarket ms660 hyway crankshaft shenanigans. Something didn't seem right when side x side with the oem one. Sure enough the keyway is machined 10° retarded from oem. The magnets in the aftermarket flywheel are 7° retarded from oem so if i did all my maths and figuring right, timing is 17° retarded total from factory. Atleast I know where I'm at timing wise now and can adjust. When it's all together and running, I may make some marks and hook a timing light up to see where things are exactly . Does anyone know what the factory spec for timing at idle is on these 660's by chance? I have the 1314 coil if it matters.
S=stock
H=hyway

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GerbrandR

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Received my 28'' Stihl light bar today. And I wanted to try my 3d printed adapter. I did some light cuts and I didn't notice anything bad, so I assume it would be safe to use.
But still I want to have one out of metal.

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The Stihl 28'' light bar is almost one pound lighter than the Husqvarna 28'' regular bar.
 

lehman live edge slab

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Received my 28'' Stihl light bar today. And I wanted to try my 3d printed adapter. I did some light cuts and I didn't notice anything bad, so I assume it would be safe to use.
But still I want to have one out of metal.

View attachment 363918 View attachment 363919

The Stihl 28'' light bar is almost one pound lighter than the Husqvarna 28'' regular bar.
Actually that adapter would probably be fine it’s more for alignment than anything, your clamping force of the cover to saw body should be doing 90% of the holding. I’ve seen lots of small machined tubes just dropped over bar studs for an adapter also.
 

GerbrandR

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Actually that adapter would probably be fine it’s more for alignment than anything, your clamping force of the cover to saw body should be doing 90% of the holding. I’ve seen lots of small machined tubes just dropped over bar studs for an adapter also.

That's what I figured too. Once the bar nuts are tight there is no movement. I think the possibillity of getting damaged is when sliding the bar on and off the adapter.
 

huskihl

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Aftermarket ms660 hyway crankshaft shenanigans. Something didn't seem right when side x side with the oem one. Sure enough the keyway is machined 10° retarded from oem. The magnets in the aftermarket flywheel are 7° retarded from oem so if i did all my maths and figuring right, timing is 17° retarded total from factory. Atleast I know where I'm at timing wise now and can adjust. When it's all together and running, I may make some marks and hook a timing light up to see where things are exactly . Does anyone know what the factory spec for timing at idle is on these 660's by chance? I have the 1314 coil if it matters.
S=stock
H=hyway

View attachment 363649 View attachment 363650 View attachment 363651
Buy a PingLing coil and maybe you’ll get lucky and it’ll fire 17° early. 😁

Most late 0 and early MS Stihls run about 26-28° btdc with a flat curve
 

Agent Smith

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Buy a PingLing coil and maybe you’ll get lucky and it’ll fire 17° early. 😁

Most late 0 and early MS Stihls run about 26-28° btdc with a flat curve
Lol I'm not that lucky. Believe me it pains me to have to run aftermarket stuffs but in this case I just couldn't afford oem. Probably be ok for as much as ill ever run it. I ended up advancing the flywheel a pinch over a full key width, applied some lapping grit to the crank and sinched it down. According to the timing light, I'm at 32° btdc now. Seems to run ok.

I did notice with the light hooked up at idle timing is retarded 10° and then right off idle it advances that 10°. Must be for ease of starting.
 

huskihl

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Lol I'm not that lucky. Believe me it pains me to have to run aftermarket stuffs but in this case I just couldn't afford oem. Probably be ok for as much as ill ever run it. I ended up advancing the flywheel a pinch over a full key width, applied some lapping grit to the crank and sinched it down. According to the timing light, I'm at 32° btdc now. Seems to run ok.

I did notice with the light hooked up at idle timing is retarded 10° and then right off idle it advances that 10°. Must be for ease of starting.
Yeah that sounds good.

Wasn’t laughing at you, laughing with you. And at the f bombs coming from your shed. Adapt and overcome
 

JIMG

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Tinkering Sunday project.
Just parked my mastermind piston and cylinder in a spare parts assemblage until something more attractive comes along.
 

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Czed

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I rebuilt a couple of 272s one with a meteor piston kit one with a hyway popup kit
New carb kits,seals fuel lines etc.IMG_20230214_163147910.jpgIMG_20230214_164039594.jpgIMG_20230214_164058305.jpgIMG_20230214_175443998.jpgIMG_20230214_123334778_HDR.jpg
The meteor saw turned out great
Started and tuned easy
I cut with it all day
The hyway saws coil took a *s-word
I need to replace it before I cut with it.
 

Gullet

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Wished I would've used a condom when I filled the oil tank cuz it came all over my workbench... 😆
Get you one of those oil drip pans @ WM that goes under a vehicle to keep oil off driveway.
Offered in a few sizes, I have a big one I put on top of my workbench when working on, or filling saws.
Wipe off with paper towels & remove & I have my wood workbench back.
 

beaglebriar

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Get you one of those oil drip pans @ WM that goes under a vehicle to keep oil off driveway.
Offered in a few sizes, I have a big one I put on top of my workbench when working on, or filling saws.
Wipe off with paper towels & remove & I have my wood workbench back.
I generally use PIG mat when working on/splitting a saw. This one had an unseen hole punched through the case from some jagoff using a long screw in the front handle. (I should have checked not the first time I've found this on a eBay saw) Not a big deal I can repair it easy enough...
 
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