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What oil is best? and what ratio?

Wilhelm

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I've just spent all my Makita 2-stroke oil, going back to Dolmar 2-stroke oil.

Checked P&C condition on Friday, Dolmar PS-6400, had piston and piston ring replaced due to prior carbon scoring, cylinder got cleaned off all carbon deposits - she was on a Makita 50:1 diet since:
DSC00217.JPG DSC00218.JPG DSC00223.JPG
DSC00259.JPG DSC00263.JPG

I like it, will have to source more Makita 2-stroke oil, and I'll continue using a 50:1 mix!
 

Wilhelm

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Dolmar PS-7900 that was on Makita 50:1 diet, but she was fed other oil prior to the Makita oil, Dolmar oil at 50:1 by me and whatever the previous owner used:
20170122163518.JPG DSC00023.JPG

Stock spark screen, has not been cleaned prior to taking the picture:
DSC00039.JPG

Inside the muffler:
DSC00042.JPG DSC00045.JPG
 

Redbull661

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high viscosity or low viscosity oil - my experince has been smaller saws (026, 261, 034, 361) don't run good at 32:1. Ran much better at 40-44:1. But those have only been stock.

my 064 and 661s on the other hand seems to like 32-36:1 the best.

...just what I've observed.
 

junkman

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high viscosity or low viscosity oil - my experince has been smaller saws (026, 261, 034, 361) don't run good at 32:1. Ran much better at 40-44:1. But those have only been stock.

my 064 and 661s on the other hand seems to like 32-36:1 the best.

...just what I've observed.
I have noticed the bike oils will not burn good in small piston ope also,weedeaters ms170 026 etc do not make enough heat to burn it .The bigger 75-90 cc saws are better at burning bike oil ,but i really think oil made for a bike is overkill for our saws though,i have been milling with same xp and saber i run in everything else and having no problems running hot.
 

junkman

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I think some of the mixed results we see with the high temp oils are just due to how they are being run. If not run hard you get build up etc.

That is one of the reasons I like HP2 - it's a mid temp but high viscosity. So in my mind that would mean it would burn well when saw is idling and the high viscosity (18 vs something like ultra 8) will protect at max output.

that said my jury is still out until I do the oil test. I don't think it'll decide a ratio to use. But I think there will be a few oils which prevail as fastest and show a trend/pattern giving us an idea of an ideal operating temp.
I like what you are doing with the tests ,what i am thinking is what works in the 661 may not be ideal for your weedeater is my thinking.
 

Keith Gandy

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I like what you are doing with the tests ,what i am thinking is what works in the 661 may not be ideal for your weedeater is my thinking.
I agree. The test should be a pretty good indicator of what mtronics will do with tese oilz but Id bet Autotune would be different. So far the Red Armor is doin well in my FS250, fS460, and HT250 but its also a OPE oil. I know the new HT250 polesaw will kick the socks off the HT100 polesaw I had in cut speed and torque
 

Keith Gandy

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Heres a good read for the oils only job is to lubricate statement. Not all oils contain the same package as the next one:
Quote: The only way to protect air- cooled two-cycle engines against piston ring sticking at their high peak temperatures is to include some detergent additives in the oil formulation. Detergents provide high temperature deposit control not available from other additives used in the oil. However, in the air-cooled engine, any ash deposits that could form from the detergents are dislodged by engine vibration and exhausted from the engine. Carbon residue is formed from unburned and partially burned fuel, and from burning of the crankcase lubricant. Water from condensation of combustion products along with carbon residue from fuel contribute to engine piston deposits. Carbon de posits are normally black and have a sooty appearance. Air-cooled oils contain lower amounts of antioxidants and dispersants, since the detergent additives do most of the work of preventing deposit accumulation. These oils also contain rust inhibitor additives to protect against rust that can form from water that enters the engine due to condensation.
 
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