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Wood Doctor

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Yesterday I think I found my ideal noodle cutting saw to knock down big ash rounds so that I can lift them onto the tailgate. I used a Stihl 046 with a 25" bar. Never bogged down. Both full chisel chain and semi were handled about the same. I can't help but like and admire the way this saw performed.

A few logs were so big that I needed to make six blocks. The 046 never complained.
 

Shawn Curry

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Yesterday I think I found my ideal noodle cutting saw to knock down big ash rounds so that I can lift them onto the tailgate. I used a Stihl 046 with a 25" bar. Never bogged down. Both full chisel chain and semi were handled about the same. I can't help but like and admire the way this saw performed.

A few logs were so big that I needed to make six blocks. The 046 never complained.

Agreed - my MS460 + 25" bar mostly gets used for noodling. It's my only gas powered splitter. :)
 

Tundra

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My noodle saw is a ported 394 stock 7900 depending on what's close at hand
 

exSW

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Had to buck up some firewood logs down to 16' for transport. Grabbed the 6100. Funny,I didn't even think of using one of the other ten runners around here.
 

Wood Doctor

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This Stihl MS 361 was a lifesaver today. I ran into some 20" diameter elm that proved a little too much for my 026, and, of course, I nudged the ground and took the edge off its chain. So I picked up the MS 361 and finished it all in a jiffy.



This Pic is about 8 years old, but the saw still performs like the day I bought it.
 

DSS

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Wood Doctor

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Last week I added a new soldier to the regiment -- Husqvarna 353:




I've cut about three truckloads of hardwood with it so far. Nice saw, I must admit that I had no idea what to expect, and it performed very well. Most impressive was the cutting speed and fuel economy. One tank of fuel produced almost a truckload of wood in the 6" to 12" dia. range and 18" lengths.

Carb may be a little out of adjustment but not much. It takes a little time to warm up and now and then it has trouble restarting when warm. Any advice there would be appreciated. Other than that, it's flawless.

Here's the best part: I got it for $200 PHO and spent $50 for a bar and chain. My buddy has one and his cost $530 new in 2006. He took one look at it and said, "Yours looks newer than mine. Gasp!"
 
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Simondo

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Only thing I can pass on "as long as there aren't actual any faults to sort " is...make sure the L and H plus the Idle is set right , dont use the de-comp when hot if you can and make sure you use the warm start setting to start the saw.
 

Wood Doctor

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Only thing I can pass on "as long as there aren't actual any faults to sort " is...make sure the L and H plus the Idle is set right, don't use the de-comp when hot if you can and make sure you use the warm start setting to start the saw.
I'll do all of those things and thanks a lot. It has to be something rather simple. The idle is set right. It's the only saw I have ever run that will stay even or perhaps beat my Stihl 028 Super when it comes to power per weight and fuel economy. The Husky 353 is a winner and I have no idea why it was ever discontinued.
 

DSS

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I'll do all of those things and thanks a lot. It has to be something rather simple. The idle is set right. It's the only saw I have ever run that will stay even or perhaps beat my Stihl 028 Super when it comes to power per weight and fuel economy. The Husky 353 is a winner and I have no idea why it was ever discontinued.
I have a 353, it's cold blooded too. Leave it on fast idle for 15 seconds or so, then it's fine. I have no hot start issues, one pull. Great little saws. And a 346XP top end is a direct swap
 
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