Using a hydraulic press to assemble cases ?

[Mattyo]

All good and best of luck!

 

[huskihl]

I popped the seals out on mine. Heated the fw inner race for 10 seconds and slid the crank in. Used longer bolts to pull the other side in. Reinstalled seals later on.

If you try installing the clutch side over the stepped crank with the seal in place, you'll pop the spring out like Matt said.

 

[Mattyo]

well, you might pop it, you might not. I can prove that with using the coke can method you don't pop it out. up to the OP which way he does it.

 

[huskihl]

well, you might pop it, you might not. I can prove that with using the coke can method you don't pop it out. up to the OP which way he does it.

I meant w/o the can. Have to use the can to get it in either way

 

[huskihl]

By popping the seal out, I meant removing it. Then reinstalling later

 

[Mattyo]

sorry, my bad... poor english on my part. you mentioned the spring. I was referring to the spring possibly popping out.
"well, you might pop it, you might not. I can prove that with using the coke can method you don't pop it out. up to the OP which way he does it."

 

[Mattyo]

i've found that its basically impossible to use the coke can trick whilst trying to pull the crank through both the seal and the bearing....so I don't even think about it, the seals come out

 

[Magic_Man]

I popped the seals out on mine. Heated the fw inner race for 10 seconds and slid the crank in. Used longer bolts to pull the other side in. Reinstalled seals later on.

If you try installing the clutch side over the stepped crank with the seal in place, you'll pop the spring out like Matt said.

By popping the seal out, I meant removing it. Then reinstalling later

Thanks Kev, I wasn't sure about removing and reinstalling the same seals. I'm guessing use a little sealant around the outside for good measure when reinstalling ?

 

[Mattyo]

if you can re-use the seals, i'd be impressed. ...let me know how you do it. usually I bend the heck out of mine when I remove them

 

[huskihl]

Thanks Kev, I wasn't sure about removing and reinstalling the same seals. I'm guessing use a little sealant around the outside for good measure when reinstalling ?

I reused mine. I got in there at the right angle and popped the big one out. Made a tiny dent on the outside. Tapped the dent out with a hammer. The small one I tapped out front the inside.

I only did it to see if it was possible. If it leaked, I'd just replace them.

So it is possible

 

[Magic_Man]

I reused mine. I got in there at the right angle and popped the big one out. Made a tiny dent on the outside. Tapped the dent out with a hammer. The small one I tapped out front the inside.

I only did it to see if it was possible. If it leaked, I'd just replace them.

So it is possible

Worth a shot, I might give that a try. I have extra seals just in case, but if I can make the old ones work I'm all for it. I will of course pressure/vac test after it's done.

That's kinda where I am with this whole project, see what's possible and what's not. If it goes wrong I fix it, no big deal. I'm a think outside the box kind of guy.

 

[huskihl]

Worth a shot, I might give that a try. I have extra seals just in case, but if I can make the old ones work I'm all for it. I will of course pressure/vac test after it's done.

That was exactly my approach

 

[Mattyo]

video in process I'm putting a 660 case together now. Just for you Magic Man! well.. kinda for everyone hehe.

I just popped out the pto side, minimal dent. i guess I could hammer it back out, but usually thats not the case for me. besides, HL supply has the full kit, and I think they are nicer seals overall than the unit comes with. nicer case gasket too imho

 

[Al Smith]

I've done cranks both ways .With the bearings on the crankshaft and with the bearings in the case .
On disassembly if you heat the bearing pockets they will usually pop the crank out with bearings on the shaft .If you freeze the whole thing over night usually it's just a tap or two on a wood block to get them off .Put the crankshaft back in the freezer .Reassemble,heat the pockets ,a light tap or two will seat the bearings in the pockets .Take a big soldering iron,I use an American beauty 350 Watt and heat the inner race .The frozen crankshaft will pop right in .Do the other case half,install the case screws ,simple as that .
BTW I have three of those big soldering irons,350 watt,500 watt and a heavy as lead 750 watt you can solder a radiator with .I'm not sure if they still even make them any more . I've never seen a new one .

 

[Al Smith]

BTW while I'm thinking about it .What few Dolmars I've worked on it didn't take heat and freeze to get the crankshaft out like a Stihl .So is it all that necessary to do that heat shrink fit like Stihl does ? Dolmar makes a pretty good saw you know . Can't say much about Husqvarna because I've never removed the crank from any except a few little clam shell trim saws .

 

[afleetcommand]

I've done is successfully with the seals in.....seals out, really can over analyze this a lot. Most important thing is having a bit of oil on the seals. I have yet to have to use a tin can or any derivative of that concept....on any saw including the 395.. BUT to each his own I guess. I've used the Husqvarna tools, my tools, heat, a press. Many ways to skin a cat. No real need to blow a lot of time or money on this stuff.. Especially if your only doing a couple of saws. When I have three or four on the bench, my tool for the Stihl pattern saw or either mine or the Husqvarna tools (much cheaper BTW!) is the fastest way I've dealt with for pulling cranks through bearings & pulling cases together. For most the Husqvarna tools are the cheapest of that style. Work for thousands of dealers so good enough for me! Build my set anyway.

I use heat differentials to work the bearings. Less stress on the cases. Less change of scuffing the bearing pockets that way. Heat differential is less important with moving the crank relative to the bearings. Lots of over analysis there too!

 

[Mattyo]

Walt does bring up a good point... these kits aren't intended to be expensive. they are intended to be cheap. one does have to be careful with how much you spend on these, because it can get out of hand in a hurry. That said, these things are what you make them.

Of interest....the kit I just started putting together, is MUCH nicer in a few ways than the last kit. The bolts are labeled. a NICE touch. the chain tensioner seems to be better...considerably so.

the cylinder that comes with it is still rough, gonna need some poor mans porting for sure.

Magic Man, this ones for you:

will be processed in a minute or two

 

[Al Smith]

Depending on the saw I might use the plastic tubes taps and drill bits come in some times to "shoe spoon" the seal over the step in the crankshaft .BTY in case nobody knows it automotive engines during factory assembly use a type of device that does basically the same thing .

 

[Al Smith]

I might add to the above post after being around every aspect of building automotive engines I have adapted both machining methods and assembly methods on various engines .Chainsaw naturally are much smaller than say a Ford 460 V8 but the same methods can apply .The tools just need to be smaller .For example the circlip installers I have made are almost the same as used in the factory ,again much smaller but they work .

 

[Magic_Man]

Being cheap with a cheap kit was my point exactly. I already have a press already, I don't wanna buy new seals. This kit is what it is and thats how I'm treating it. So off to the press, it will either go or blow.