High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys

Anyone ever use these on their squish bands?

S&S_Work_Saws

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Not sure if this is old news to everyone or even if this method would be considered acceptable by anyone else. I have just recently found these sanding attachments super cheap at Harbor Frieght. Not a big fan of 99% of the tools they sell but in this instance it has helped me tremendously.
I'll start by saying that most if not all of the saws I usually mess with are in the 70cc to 80cc range and of course most generally use a roughly 50mm to 56mm bore.
I have tried using the aluminum slugs before with a piece of saw blade as a cutter out of the top and spinning the cylinder on the cutter which is chucked in the vice.
I've tried the old piston method also. Sticking sand paper on it and it usually lasts about 25 rotation before my sand paper is trash.

This took me about 10 minutes....I know it's not perfect obviously as if I had a lathe but it's a lot better then any other method I've used before.

Another positive thing about this little $6 tool is I'm able to get it to check up in my handpiece.

Wish I would have know about this kit months ago. Fits PERFECTLY into a 52mm bore cylinder.

Hopefully this will save someone some time also.
 

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BuffaloBill

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Every once in a while I too find something at harbor freight that actually proves useful.
I was also wondering though, if this disk is stiff enough such that it sands off the high spots, and doesn’t conform to the irregular surface, etc?
 

MG porting

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Not sure if this is old news to everyone or even if this method would be considered acceptable by anyone else. I have just recently found these sanding attachments super cheap at Harbor Frieght. Not a big fan of 99% of the tools they sell but in this instance it has helped me tremendously.
I'll start by saying that most if not all of the saws I usually mess with are in the 70cc to 80cc range and of course most generally use a roughly 50mm to 56mm bore.
I have tried using the aluminum slugs before with a piece of saw blade as a cutter out of the top and spinning the cylinder on the cutter which is chucked in the vice.
I've tried the old piston method also. Sticking sand paper on it and it usually lasts about 25 rotation before my sand paper is trash.

This took me about 10 minutes....I know it's not perfect obviously as if I had a lathe but it's a lot better then any other method I've used before.

Another positive thing about this little $6 tool is I'm able to get it to check up in my handpiece.

Wish I would have know about this kit months ago. Fits PERFECTLY into a 52mm bore cylinder.

Hopefully this will save someone some time also.
Looks like it worked to me.👍
 

S&S_Work_Saws

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No issues with sanding away the top of the cylinder wall?
Not that I can tell. I slide a sharp pick to the end of the bore and i don't feel it hanging or anything. The backing is pretty stick and the sand paper that came with it is very stiff also. I couldn't believe how fast it cut actually.
Not sure about being able to find the same sanding disks for it when these are worn out. I went back to try and buy a couple more of these kits and they were sold out of them. Hoping they restock them.
 

S&S_Work_Saws

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Every once in a while I too find something at harbor freight that actually proves useful.
I was also wondering though, if this disk is stiff enough such that it sands off the high spots, and doesn’t conform to the irregular surface, etc?
The backing and sanding disks are both pretty rigid. I found getting the cylinder set as level as possible in my vise and focusing mainly on keeping the tool squared in the cylinder was the more important part using this thing. I used the depth gauge on the end of the caliper around the cylinder in several places as I went and to check how much I was removing. It was always pretty uniform throughout the sanding.
 

huskihl

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Any type of sandpaper like that will sand away the squish band, but it always leaves a ring of plating or aluminum at the outside edge that is never as big as the bore. If you watch tree monkeys old videos of him cutting squish by hand, he uses a cutter on a mandrel like a ridge reamer to remove that ridge and remove the band, and then sandpaper on the end of another mandrel makes the squish band flat
 
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S&S_Work_Saws

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Any type of sandpaper like that will sand away the squish band, but it always leaves a ring of plating or aluminum at the outside edge that is never as big as the bore. If you watch tree monkeys old videos of him cutting squish by hand, he uses a cutter on a mandrel like a ridge reamer to remove that ridge and remove the band, and then sandpaper on the end of another mandrel makes the squish band flat
This one I checked 3 times all the way to the edge of the cylinder. Front, back, and sides of cylinder in 4 places and it was pretty uniform all the way across. This might have been blind luck of maybe not. I don't know for sure. The 461 is almost back together and I'll see how it runs and then check the compression.
I tore a 462 down this evening and I'm going to try it on that jug also. We'll see what results I get there. It should be the same bore as the 461. I'll see what happens and post some pictures in this thread.
 

huskihl

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Make sure the bore is big enough for your piston to go all the way up and hit the squish band. I’m guessing that if your bore is 52MM, up there at the very top by your new squish band is only about 51.9mm and the piston is going to get tight against it
 
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chipper1

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Make sure the bore is big enough for your piston to go all the way up and hit the squish band. I’m guessing that if your bore is 52MM, up there at the very top by your new squish band it’s only about 51.9mm and the piston is going to get tight against it
Maybe there's a Chinese fix for that too 😆.
Let's go china!
 

S&S_Work_Saws

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I did several cylinders using the method I posted about. I never had one that didn't work out or one that had piston slap. The only down side I found was how unpredictable the amount of material being removed was. Also it only worked for 50mm and 52mm cylinders.
I did however find a way to get much better more predictable results....a little more involved but far better results.
 

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chipper1

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I did several cylinders using the method I posted about. I never had one that didn't work out or one that had piston slap. The only down side I found was how unpredictable the amount of material being removed was. Also it only worked for 50mm and 52mm cylinders.
I did however find a way to get much better more predictable results....a little more involved but far better results.
That might work :).
 

huskihl

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I did several cylinders using the method I posted about. I never had one that didn't work out or one that had piston slap. The only down side I found was how unpredictable the amount of material being removed was. Also it only worked for 50mm and 52mm cylinders.
I did however find a way to get much better more predictable results....a little more involved but far better results.
Whacha got goin on there?
 
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