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TYM and Mahindra Tractors...Got a John Deere Instead!

jakethesnake

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I grew up running a farmall A so shifting gears ain’t no stranger to me. By any chance do you hate hydro because of the early IH hydro’s of he 70’s??? Man did they suck
I think you’re gonna make out real good on that
Check her over best you can maybe he’d be willing to take a little less. Looked like it lives on a farm. Some of those boys take care of thier stuff so you may have a decent piece there. Also simple enough you can likely work on anything on it
 

XP_Slinger

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While not a shuttle shift like forwards/reverse I love the old Oliver's that had the Hydra shift, over/direct/under. Three ranges on the fly!
That’s right buddy!!!! It seems central New Yorkers have an affinity with the old Oliver’s...there’s a few diehards around here. They sound great!
 

Marshy

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That is pretty cool. I’ve never run an Oliver. Seen just s few

The early version of the Hydra-Shift was two ranges, the later version was 3. Direct was direct, under was 25% reduction and over was 25% increase.

This guy has a nice 1950 pulling tractor. Watch it in action at the beginning.
Skip to 4:36 to hear him explain it.
 

Marshy

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That’s right buddy!!!! It seems central New Yorkers have an affinity with the old Oliver’s...there’s a few diehards around here. They sound great!
My Dad had a 1650 with the Waukesha diesel engine. It was a great tractor. My brother and I spent many of day riding the fenders. I'd love to have one to make hay with if I had the land.
 

jakethesnake

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The early version of the Hydra-Shift was two ranges, the later version was 3. Direct was direct, under was 25% reduction and over was 25% increase.

This guy has a nice 1950 pulling tractor. Watch it in action at the beginning.
Skip to 4:36 to hear him explain it.
That’s a real good pull tractor. That fella is pretty good with it too I see the shift on the fly it works excellent for that setup
 

XP_Slinger

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The early version of the Hydra-Shift was two ranges, the later version was 3. Direct was direct, under was 25% reduction and over was 25% increase.

This guy has a nice 1950 pulling tractor. Watch it in action at the beginning.
Skip to 4:36 to hear him explain it.
I’ve never operated an Oliver but they’ve always impressed me at the boonville antique tractor pulls. Gotta love the big green iron, both Oliver and Deere ;)
 

Ryan Browne

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No I hate hydro because of the newer John Deere hydro on the compacts. I drove a Massey Ferguson with the straight shift and a shuttle. The shuttle eats that johns tail.
Both good little tractors. I don’t like the old ih hydro either
Even with foot pedals you work your foot to death loading less than just pushing a clutch in
If you’re loading dirt from a pile they are cumbersome

It's cool that we can have a good conversation without it devolving into one of the countless gear versus hydro arguments like on TBN.

I grew up on 8Ns (thank God that's over), so I'm used to using a clutch too. I've only spent half a dozen or so hours with a hydraulic shuttle though, so I get what they do, but I'm no hot dog at running one.

I'm always operating close to stuff, trees, houses, the next row of veggies, etc, and also, I'm not the only one who uses my tractors. I'm sure there's many folks, probably yourself included, who can really put a shuttle shift tractor exactly where it needs to be every time without running into stuff, but to be honest, that isn't me. I feel the hydro really shortens the learning curve for new operators dramatically, and I don't have to worry about the new guy taking out the corner of my shed.

Also, for growing veggies, hydro is the cat's meow. Actually, turds as they are, those old IH hydros are still sought after for running transplanters in veggie operations. The ability to vary ground speed on the fly without adjusting PTO RPM is huge for me, and until you get into a power shift or CVT setup, the hydro is the only way to do it. I'm attaching a video which shows us chopping straw for mulching the veggies on our farm. It's pretty cool to be able to set the PTO to 540 and be able to make slight adjustments to the speed using the cruise control lever. I know what we're doing in the video is against the rules, and not really safe, but when there's only two people available, sometimes you do what you gotta do. Besides, the seat does a good job of steering. :)

I guess it's just a matter of horses for different courses. It's great that they make so many different models. Confusing as heck, but once you figure out the language, it's not so bad. Oh, one more question, did the JD hydros you ran have two or three ranges? The tractors with two ranges really blow in my opinion.

 

jakethesnake

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It's cool that we can have a good conversation without it devolving into one of the countless gear versus hydro arguments like on TBN.

I grew up on 8Ns (thank God that's over), so I'm used to using a clutch too. I've only spent half a dozen or so hours with a hydraulic shuttle though, so I get what they do, but I'm no hot dog at running one.

I'm always operating close to stuff, trees, houses, the next row of veggies, etc, and also, I'm not the only one who uses my tractors. I'm sure there's many folks, probably yourself included, who can really put a shuttle shift tractor exactly where it needs to be every time without running into stuff, but to be honest, that isn't me. I feel the hydro really shortens the learning curve for new operators dramatically, and I don't have to worry about the new guy taking out the corner of my shed.

Also, for growing veggies, hydro is the cat's meow. Actually, turds as they are, those old IH hydros are still sought after for running transplanters in veggie operations. The ability to vary ground speed on the fly without adjusting PTO RPM is huge for me, and until you get into a power shift or CVT setup, the hydro is the only way to do it. I'm attaching a video which shows us chopping straw for mulching the veggies on our farm. It's pretty cool to be able to set the PTO to 540 and be able to make slight adjustments to the speed using the cruise control lever. I know what we're doing in the video is against the rules, and not really safe, but when there's only two people available, sometimes you do what you gotta do. Besides, the seat does a good job of steering. :)

I guess it's just a matter of horses for different courses. It's great that they make so many different models. Confusing as heck, but once you figure out the language, it's not so bad. Oh, one more question, did the JD hydros you ran have two or three ranges? The tractors with two ranges really blow in my opinion.

I’ve ran quite a few different Deere setups on the compact end. Only one compact Massey.
As far as hydro having it’s place all the combines and harvesters are hydrostatic. Gear drive just sorta wouldn’t work in that situation. Those machines crank around 2400 rpms all day long . If you let off the throttle they would jam. I’d be so confused on a gear drive there.
I’m not trying to imply it’s a bad setup but if you have three gear ranges Snail turtle and rabbit. Plus 4 gears per range. You can find a gear that makes you happy.



But that wouldn’t work well for harvesting large scale either.
 

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Anyone have any hands on/owner experience with TYM or Mahindra tractors? I’m shopping for a compact 4x4 but I want it to be the size of a Kubota L-series. I’ve read good things about them on the web but you know how that goes. Thanks gents.
I'll give you my opinion for what it's worth. Lol

The Mahindra's are good if you stay below 50hp. Above that they are problematic. Personally I'd stay away from the gray market stuff... just because.

If you hold out you'll find the right machine. It took a while to find my tractor but it was in same price range you are looking for. They're out there.

If you find a 20 series Ford they're pretty much bullet proof. That's my preference, it's what I wanted and eventually found. Maybe not everyone's cup of tea but I'm a fan. 1920 or 2120 are great tractors.

Parts are difficult to find for most older compacts.(more than ten years old) Kubota is probably the exception here.
Difficult doesn't mean impossible but the manufacturer support just isn't there with the compact stuff because they're imports.
 

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I sort of lost track of this post. Ag/R1 tires are best for towing and traction. The only reason to get R4 industrials is if you have to run over grass and/or pavement a lot. R1 + chains is the gold standard for woods work. Take look at what you see on professional skidders and other lumbering equipment. Ballast really helps with traction too.
 

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I sort of lost track of this post. Ag/R1 tires are best for towing and traction. The only reason to get R4 industrials is if you have to run over grass and/or pavement a lot. R1 + chains is the gold standard for woods work. Take look at what you see on professional skidders and other lumbering equipment. Ballast really helps with traction too.
Yes sir loaded tires are the way to go. Much better than weights that ad load to the axle bearings imo
 

Blackgreyhounds

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Yes sir loaded tires are the way to go. Much better than weights that ad load to the axle bearings imo
Weighted/filled tires and ballasts provide similar but different mechanical avantages, e.g. filled tires help with traction but don't take weight off the front end when using the loader. Ballast on the 3pt will move loader weight from front to back. Both have their place.
 

Blackgreyhounds

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I'll give you my opinion for what it's worth. Lol

The Mahindra's are good if you stay below 50hp. Above that they are problematic. Personally I'd stay away from the gray market stuff... just because.

If you hold out you'll find the right machine. It took a while to find my tractor but it was in same price range you are looking for. They're out there.

If you find a 20 series Ford they're pretty much bullet proof. That's my preference, it's what I wanted and eventually found. Maybe not everyone's cup of tea but I'm a fan. 1920 or 2120 are great tractors.

Parts are difficult to find for most older compacts.(more than ten years old) Kubota is probably the exception here.
Difficult doesn't mean impossible but the manufacturer support just isn't there with the compact stuff because they're imports.

FWIW , Kubotas are assembled in USA and their loaders are fully built in the US. As such, their compacts are probably more "American " than the american brands like JD, Case, New Holland that are mostly or completely foreign.

As above, parts are very easy to obtain for older Kubotas, but then again, I'm spoiled 'cuz I'm only 20 min from Messicks.
 

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Well the 454 is gone, guy never replied to my email. Found this industrial John Deere 301A in my local area today, struck an agreement with the owner. As long as nothing seems off or bad when I run it I’ll be bringing it home this weekend. Power shuttle shift, 3cyl diesel, 46hp, over 4,000 pounds without the loader and near new loaded tires, VERY nice chains, ROPS, and it comes with an extra set of wide mower turf tires. Loader can lift 2,500lbs to full height! 2,100 pound lift on the 3-point. I’m really excited. Fingers crossed fellas.

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FWIW, quality "Old Iron" is always a better value than new. However, new entrants to the tractor market rarely have the knowledge to separate the "good" old iron from the "crap" old iron. Thus, anyone new to the market should be looking for quality "new" machines or high-value not-too-old machinery. That said, I backed into a great bargain on a used Kubota, but most won't luck int this situation. New Kubota's keep their value and perform better than any other new compact tractors. You literally can't go wrong.
 
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