TYM and Mahindra Tractors...Got a John Deere Instead!

[XP_Slinger]

Or make a tradeoff...
I ended up buying an older machine because my budget was small. Deutz-Allis 5230, Non-hydro, 32hp, FEL with a 5' brush hog and 1600 hrs for just under 7k. It will do everything I need. The trees I'm taking off my property are not large enough to justify a larger tractor.

You see this nice JD 790? Maybe too small?
https://ithaca.craigslist.org/grd/d/kubota-l2800-compact-tractor/6452007416.html

Those are nice tractors but the 7xx series are just too small really. Only 8xx lbs lift on the 3 point. The 850 is probably the smallest I would consider. 950 is more ideal if you can find them but they are never cheap.

My uncle has a 790 and the poor hydraulic performance kills that model for me. He has to raise his engine rpm to lift his 5ft brush hog.

 

[XP_Slinger]

1200 hours is nothing to worry about at all. That might be a winner right there. Super strong loader, pretty solid machines, lots of satisfied owners on TBN who have pretty well documented most of the common issues.

High hours with good maintenance doesn’t bother me. If it’s been maintained properly it will show and I agree the hours don’t matter at that point

 

[Ryan Browne]

High hours with good maintenance doesn’t bother me. If it’s been maintained properly it will show and I agree the hours don’t matter at that point

Ah hell, 1200 hours is like a car with 36,000 miles, assuming 30 mph average. I'd consider anything under 1500 to be low hours. Over 5000 starts to be high hours in my opinion.

Definitely want to check for a few things over a few hundred hours though. Mostly, I'd want to check to see that it isn't still wearing the factory filters (engine oil, hydro oil, and HST filter). The majority of tractors come with filters painted the same color as the body, so it's easy to see if they're original. I'd also want to make sure there's no leaks, and check the loader to make sure it's not sloppy. I'd rather own a tractor that mowed for 2000 hours than one that got the crap beat out of the loader for 800 hours. Also, you should be able to put a hydro tractor in high range and push up against an immovable object and get the pump to go into relief. Otherwise, the pump might be getting weak.

 

[Marshy]

What do you think of that Ford 2110 I posted, too many hours? It's not far from Bret, @spencerpaving. He might even know the equipment place selling it and might have good/bad thing to say...?

 

[XP_Slinger]

Ah hell, 1200 hours is like a car with 36,000 miles, assuming 30 mph average. I'd consider anything under 1500 to be low hours. Over 5000 starts to be high hours in my opinion.

Definitely want to check for a few things over a few hundred hours though. Mostly, I'd want to check to see that it isn't still wearing the factory filters (engine oil, hydro oil, and HST filter). The majority of tractors come with filters painted the same color as the body, so it's easy to see if they're original. I'd also want to make sure there's no leaks, and check the loader to make sure it's not sloppy. I'd rather own a tractor that mowed for 2000 hours than one that got the crap beat out of the loader for 800 hours. Also, you should be able to put a hydro tractor in high range and push up against an immovable object and get the pump to go into relief. Otherwise, the pump might be getting weak.

That’s a good tip on the filter colors. I agree that a 2,000 hour mower is better than 800 hours of abuse.

What do you think of that Ford 2110 I posted, too many hours? It's not far from Bret, @spencerpaving. He might even know the equipment place selling it and might have good/bad thing to say...?

That sure seems to be a solid tractor. I’m still researching the model. Right now I’m trying to decide if I want hydro or gear shift. Advantages to both except hydro is more expensive usually.

 

[angelo c]

Josh,
my comments are strictly meant as an "option" not gospel...

I was told by a dealer close by that the buyer of a "light hours use" Kubota is almost better bought "NEW" because the depreciation of a new pristine well cared for machine is so little over the first few years.

WTF is angelo saying here...
if we only have 12k for the use of a machine of that size you might be better off buying "new" when a financing deal is best, like '0%' financing and as little cash "down" as possible. And making monthly payments with that 12k. when the machine is used a couple o hunnerd hours sell it and buy again. the depreciation on a like new Kubota is miniscule( as you can tell) and we have the cash for "other" stuffs( like some real saws-Stihl saws).

I spent years as a financial advisor so I was taught by the best schucksters in the world how to sell chit so just consider my option as a best use of assets situation.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Josh,
my comments are strictly meant as an "option" not gospel...

I was told by a dealer close by that the buyer of a "light hours use" Kubota is almost better bought "NEW" because the depreciation of a new pristine well cared for machine is so little over the first few years.

WTF is angelo saying here...
if we only have 12k for the use of a machine of that size you might be better off buying "new" when a financing deal is best, like '0% financing and as little cash "down" as possible. And making monthly payments with that 12k. when the machine is used a couple o hunnerd hours sell it and buy again. the depreciation on a like new Kubota is miniscule( as you can tell) and we have the cash for "other" stuffs( like some real saws-Stihl saws).

I spent years as a financial advisor so I was taught by the best schucksters in the world how to sell chit so just consider my option as a best use of assets situation.

Believe me I appreciate your perspective, and everyone else’s. Just so happens that you pretty much read my mind. I was just telling my wife “ why finance 12k at 5% when we could finance 18k at 0%?” Just makes sense to me so long as it’s within my monthly budget. Yes I’ll be financing 90% of this even at 12k, but that’s how I can manage these things. Just do my best to stay within my means and it’s worked so far.

I had not thought of how little a well cared for compact depreciates in value. Very valid point that is true of most brands we’re talking about.

If I may kindly offer some financial advice...keep investing in screw companies, I’m building another dead husky soon....LOL! You’re welcome for that insider tip

 

[Marshy]

That’s a good tip on the filter colors. I agree that a 2,000 hour mower is better than 800 hours of abuse.



That sure seems to be a solid tractor. I’m still researching the model. Right now I’m trying to decide if I want hydro or gear shift. Advantages to both except hydro is more expensive usually.

The hydro is super convenient if you are using the FEL a lot. You don't realize How much back and forward you do with your tractor until you have to push a clutch in every time. Uugh. The up side is the power. You lose some in the hydro drives compared to the gear drive and mowing with a hydro must suck keeping the pedal depressed the whole time (maybe there's something to lock in your pedal?). I guess there are positives and negatives to both.

 

[XP_Slinger]

The hydro is super convenient if you are using the FEL a lot. You don't realize How much back and forward you do with your tractor until you have to push a clutch in every time. Uugh. The up side is the power. You lose some in the hydro drives compared to the gear drive and mowing with a hydro must suck keeping the pedal depressed the whole time (maybe there's something to lock in your pedal?). I guess there are positives and negatives to both.

There sure are ups and downs to both. But there is cruise control for hydro’s

 

[Marshy]

Wow, I just looked up my tractor and just learned it weighs 26-2700 lbs and the 3 pt hitch is rated for 2200 lbs at the ends. I've been happy with it.
Best advice I can give is get a pair of wheel chains. They are critical for pushing snow.

 

[Blackgreyhounds]

Don't get to overly into all the "numbers" when shopping for a tractor (except of course price). Quality, comfort and convenience can't really be measured.

 

[Blackgreyhounds]

That’s a good tip on the filter colors. I agree that a 2,000 hour mower is better than 800 hours of abuse.



That sure seems to be a solid tractor. I’m still researching the model. Right now I’m trying to decide if I want hydro or gear shift. Advantages to both except hydro is more expensive usually.

Get a hydro, no doubt. Hydro's are best for start/stop/front back work like firewood hoarding in the woods. Gear transmissions are best suited for straight line field work, like mowing, tilling, planting, haying...

Also, if you really want to maximize traction to tow / skid logs out of the woods, get Ag tires, not Industrial.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Don't get to overly into all the "numbers" when shopping for a tractor (except of course price). Quality, comfort and convenience can't really be measured.

Yes sir. I’ve been watching lots of videos like that. Good info but almost always bias in one way or another. I’m gonna head to a dealer near me on Monday and get my butt in some seats. I feel like I’ve learned enough in the last year to put the internet aside (somewhat) and make a choice.

 

[XP_Slinger]

Get a hydro, no doubt. Hydro's are best for start/stop/front back work like firewood hoarding in the woods. Gear transmissions are best suited for straight line field work, like mowing, tilling, planting, haying...

Also, if you really want to maximize traction to tow / skid logs out of the woods, get Ag tires, not Industrial.

I like AG tires for the deep lugs, but I was thinking industrial might be better for my woods. Lots of sharp rocks

 

[Ryan Browne]

I like AG tires for the deep lugs, but I was thinking industrial might be better for my woods. Lots of sharp rocks

R4s are better at loader work and puncture resistance and that's about it. Maybe resale too, but that's not as big of a deal. Honestly though, it's pretty rare you hear of someone puncturing an R1. They're at pretty low psi, so they flex around rocks pretty well. Of course, you're the one looking at your rocks, so you have to decide for yourself, but R1s offer a pretty dramatic increase in traction. Then again, R4s with chains are a good setup. Expensive, and a hassle, but good.

 

[XP_Slinger]

R4s are better at loader work and puncture resistance and that's about it. Maybe resale too, but that's not as big of a deal. Honestly though, it's pretty rare you hear of someone puncturing an R1. They're at pretty low psi, so they flex around rocks pretty well. Of course, you're the one looking at your rocks, so you have to decide for yourself, but R1s offer a pretty dramatic increase in traction. Then again, R4s with chains are a good setup. Expensive, and a hassle, but good.

Maybe I’m over thinking the tires. Haven’t popped the loaded AG tires on my little Farmall A yet.

You guys are really making me think, and that’s a good thing. These conversations are needed to eject ridiculous notions and theories that may or may not apply to my particular needs.

 

[jakethesnake]

That’s a good tip on the filter colors. I agree that a 2,000 hour mower is better than 800 hours of abuse.



That sure seems to be a solid tractor. I’m still researching the model. Right now I’m trying to decide if I want hydro or gear shift. Advantages to both except hydro is more expensive usually.

I’m totally gonna just go against the grain. I’d find an older peice of iron with a shuttle shift. Deere case ih. 3000 hours is brand new on those Most every model is good. Shuttle is fantastic for loading. You get a whole lot more iron for your money. Are you absolutely certain you need front wheel assist. ?? I’m way off topic for sure but I use lots of tractors.

 

[jakethesnake]

Firestone tires on used. They’re just the best there’s no better tire. Tread pattern is petty

 

[XP_Slinger]

I’m totally gonna just go against the grain. I’d find an older peice of iron with a shuttle shift. Deere case ih. 3000 hours is brand new on those Most every model is good. Shuttle is fantastic for loading. You get a whole lot more iron for your money. Are you absolutely certain you need front wheel assist. ?? I’m way off topic for sure but I use lots of tractors.

You’re not off topic at all brother. I like different perspectives. I would like 4x4 for winter operations, a few BIG bucket projects and for muddy uphill climbs out of my woods. I know big iron will find traction but I don’t want to go so big that it’s hard to maneuver in the woods. I’ll be honest, I was looking at 656D utility models last year and I really wanted one. But, I really do need a nice loader for around my place. That big iron gets mighty cramped in the woods with an AG loader hanging off the front. But if you have other experience to offer please tell the tale bud. I’m not set in anything yet...I’d like to find an international 2400 with a 3-point, if I could find that in good shape I’d save myself a lot of money. But they’re tough to find in diesel...I really don’t want gas in a tractor that size

 

[Marshy]

I haven't been in a situation I couldn't get out of with my tractor and R1 tires. Been really close to it though. I don't think I would of made it with R4's. Ask the dealer if he can toss inv a pair of chains if you go with R4's. I priced a set for my rears, 300-350. They are 14.4x24