The SCARR Husqvarna 592XP build thread.

[Funky sawman]

It is false, but some like posting inaccurate lore on the internet..........

Hey well thanks for confirming this!

 

[Woodpecker]

Problem with any bigger than a 3/8 8 is availability and cost. Then you have the issue of odd wear at the tail of the bar, and more likely to throw a chain also. Yep I have been there, done that!

 

[Funky sawman]

View attachment 324200

Ohh I would love to come up with an excuse to buy one of these, but so far I'm not impressed enough to make an argument with my wife and end up in divorce! A 660 might be worth that!

 

[Funky sawman]

Just saying, i thought it was proved the leg mod was false info on the 461.

News to me, last time I talked to my local dealer about cons of a 461, he told me no problem about the limiter, just cut the bottom leg off.
As far as that mod not working, is new to me. Sorry to spread misinformation.

 

[Woodpecker]

Ohh I would love to come up with an excuse to buy one of these, but so far I'm not impressed enough to make an argument with my wife and end up in divorce! A 660 might be worth that!

I guess the point is there’s no use trying to fit a square peg into a round hole. You’d probably be better served getting a 661… it’s okay to recognize the fact that a 592 isn’t going to be “the” saw for everyone.

 

[Funky sawman]

Square peg in a round hole.....wait a minute, you are describing my whole life lol

 

[~WBF]

Ok yea, thank you. I will respectfully pass on these saws for my needs. Still a neat saw though!

8 tooth stays on as good as a 7 on those bars. That's 12.5% more than the 7T.
10% =1250 rpm
1% =125 X 2
.5% =62.
Now the 8T is same as running 14000+ rpm on a 7T

Then there's always that thing called square chisel chain. Stay with the 7 in full comp. Tell me there is not enough chain speed. You can go from a still start and hit the trigger and it's gone - hard lateral old branches with tight grow rings. Two complete different styles of limbing.
There is options there yet.

I do like them fast on the top for brush & smooth (little 4 stroking for all that on and off the trigger.

 

[Nutball]

Max speed is irrelevant to those that buck and fell wood. But those like myself that spend half a day just limbing trees, the rpm matters ALOT!!!

High rpm will reduce the life of the saw in my opinion. I agree with using a larger rim, and even more teeth, like a .325 9t. I use that rim on 461 up to 660, and it will still bury a 20" bar, and zip through the wood quick. That rim is a smidge larger than 3/8 8t, and you have more teeth. Perhaps make or get a custom tailed bar to better handle larger rims. I haven't had my .325 9t derail ever, but I'm only running a 20" bar.

 

[TreeLife]

Ohh I would love to come up with an excuse to buy one of these, but so far I'm not impressed enough to make an argument with my wife and end up in divorce! A 660 might be worth that!

You think a 660, which is a fuggin pooch is worth it but not a modern saw that probably has 3 more horse? Lol

 

[Funky sawman]

8 tooth stays on as good as a 7 on those bars. That's 12.5% more than the 7T.
10% =1250 rpm
1% =125 X 2
.5% =62.
Now the 8T is same as running 14000+ rpm on a 7T

Then there's always that thing called square chisel chain. Stay with the 7 in full comp. Tell me there is not enough chain speed. You can go from a still start and hit the trigger and it's gone- hard lateral old branches with tight grow rings. Two complete different styles of limbing.
There is options there yet.

I do like them fast on the top for brush & smooth (little 4 stroking for all that on and off the trigger.

Thing is what I haven't stated allready, is I run 8 pin sprocket on all my bigger saws. So to get better than my 13,000 with 8 pin, I would have to go to a 9 or 10

 

[Funky sawman]

At least I have an almost endless parts supply for the 66, that fails then I can reluctantly use aftermarket

 

[Woodpecker]

At least I have an almost endless parts supply for the 66, that fails then I can reluctantly use aftermarket

Lots of 661 parts out there at this point… just sayin

 

[Maintenance Chief]

High rpm will reduce the life of the saw in my opinion. I agree with using a larger rim, and even more teeth, like a .325 9t. I use that rim on 461 up to 660, and it will still bury a 20" bar, and zip through the wood quick. That rim is a smidge larger than 3/8 8t, and you have more teeth. Perhaps make or get a custom tailed bar to better handle larger rims. I haven't had my .325 9t derail ever, but I'm only running a 20" bar.

Yup ,I like the 9 pin 325 on my 028 super , makes the little guy seem alot faster.

 

[Funky sawman]

High rpm will reduce the life of the saw in my opinion. I agree with using a larger rim, and even more teeth, like a .325 9t. I use that rim on 461 up to 660, and it will still bury a 20" bar, and zip through the wood quick. That rim is a smidge larger than 3/8 8t, and you have more teeth. Perhaps make or get a custom tailed bar to better handle larger rims. I haven't had my .325 9t derail ever, but I'm only running a 20" bar.

I run nothing smaller than a 28 on my big saws, up to a 42 inch then a 50 inch on occasion. I've used a .404 8 tooth on my 395, but the chain kept coming derailed from the bottom of the bar. Only when limbing though, with a tight chain of course. I went back to a 7 pin, no more problems.

 

[Nutball]

I run nothing smaller than a 28 on my big saws, up to a 42 inch then a 50 inch on occasion. I've used a .404 8 tooth on my 395, but the chain kept coming derailed from the bottom of the bar. Only when limbing though, with a tight chain of course. I went back to a 7 pin, no more problems.

How big of trees do you cut? Perhaps this limbing method could help speed things up, or maybe you already know it. I don't know how well it would translate to large tree cutting with long bars due to the increased risks from larger wood. Maybe it would work near the top of a big tree.

 

[Funky sawman]

Cut mostly 18 to 30 inch stuff right now, with a few 40 plus inchers mixed in. Some of it is blow down, even though it's smaller wood, it's loaded big time and a longer bar gives me some space to work with.
Out here in the northwest, most Sawyer's limb a tree while they are walking down it, because sometimes the forest floor is inaccessible to put a foot on. This requires a long bar, especially for guys like me at 6 ft. A 28 is barely long enough for me to stand and limb, a 30 inch is perfect, a 32 works

 

[Woodpecker]

How big of trees do you cut? Perhaps this limbing method could help speed things up, or maybe you already know it. I don't know how well it would translate to large tree cutting with long bars due to the increased risks from larger wood. Maybe it would work near the top of a big tree.

I was shown the Erickson method maybe 15 years ago at an arborist conference. I deal with a lot of dead and failing Colorado blue spruce here in Michigan. Simply put it’s the fastest way I’ve found to limb the spruce species. Now having said that it wouldn’t work very well for most of a west coast tree.

 

[Nutball]

Now for the fun part... That guy went on to work for Husqy, this is a Husqy thread after all.

 

[Funky sawman]

Takes bout 90 seconds to put an easy 20 inch dia tree on the ground, then can take 10 minutes to limb 3 sides of it! I'm in what they call "woofy" wood, meaning lots of limbs, shorter tree hight and lots of taper, due to steep Rocky ground.
The most common powerhead I see out here is guys running 462's with lightweight 32 inch with semi skip chain. I had a 462, didn't like it. This 585 sounds appealing but the number one thing that bothers me about new huskys is the purge bulb. Ok I will get over that....but then this limited module, argggggg. That's just too much for me. I think a saw with a manual tune carb shouldn't have a limited module, or at least have a way to change it to unlimited.

 

[HYPERSAWS]

Just get a 661 they are beasts